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    1. · A Legend In My Own Mind
      08 Avalon Limited
      74 Posts
      Thanks for the DIY tutorial on this subject, it was EXTREMELY helpful!!! My car is an 08 Avalon Limited with 2gr-fe engine. A warning to any and all parties considering executing this DIY. I am pretty handy mechanically. On a DIY skill level scale, I would say I am almost an 8 (10 being the best). That being said, this project (at times) was downright scary, VERY time consuming and it was sooooooooooooooo much more difficult than I thought it would be!!! Do not attempt without having a pry bar present (that you may or may not need) and a very thin long ratchet (see below) on hand!. My humble suggestion is that DIYers start at the bottom by moving PS pump and removing the BOTTOM Banjo bolt 1st because it is WAAAYY harder to remove than the top one. That way if you can not get it loose m(which almost happened to me), you have the option of more easily chickening-out BEFORE taking all the top stuff off. When working on removing the PS Pump, I think I made a mistake in NOT taking off the hard line PS pump bracket BEFORE loosening the PS Pump. I had both of the pump bolts out but the pump would not budge. I loosened the PS line bracket and got movement on bottom mount but not on the top one. I could not (or did not think to) lube up top PS Pump bracket to get it off (also very difficult to access to lube it).. I ended up GENTLY prying the PS pump away from the motor (prying towards the rear of vehicle) and it popped loose. It almost seemed like it had become corroded or even fused to the vehicle over time. and saying that the lower / bottom banjo bolt is difficult to remove (because so awkwardly placed and soooo tight) is the understatement of the decade! I spent probably 1-1.5 hours just trying to remove it and was on (literally) my last try to twist it off before I was going to abort the mission when it finally broke free. Things I learned when trying to break it free are as follows... use either a 17MM swivel socket (best) or swivel socket adapter (works good). Use a 1/2 inch VERY LONG extension or extensions (1.5-2 ft total) as 3/8 extension will flex to much while trying to remove lower banjo bolt. I reduced the 1/2 inch extension with an adapter to the 3/8 swivel socket adapter at the end. You will have to fish the extensions through the car to get to the lower banjo bolt. Use a 1/2 inch ratchet or (if possible) breaker bar for leverage. The most challenging thing for me up at the top side (engine part) of this project was removing the plastic cover over the oil pipe (very tight access & probably impossible for a normal ratchet to access). That being said... The Pittsburgh Professional 1/4 & 3/8 long reach dual flex head ratchet" tool helped me IMMENSELY with that issue. It is located here...

      If you do choose to proceed after reading all of this, then good luck and (along with this tutorial) here is one of a few videos that helped me complete the project...
    1. · Registered
      1,343 Posts
      00 Camry i4.

      Would I have to lift the car up on all 4 tires to get to it?

      Would this tool do?

      I already have a O2 sensor socket.

      At a minimum you'll need to raise the front wheels, with a jack and stands, or ramps.

      With modern quality ratchets, breaker bars are obsolete. The square drive will fail on both before the mechanism in the ratchet breaks.

      I prefer either of these two for high torque applications. The extendable ratchet is nice if there's no room to hold the head of the ratchet, but the flex head is handy when you don't have a straight shot at the fastener.

      If it's been a long time since it's been removed, snip the wires and use a regular deep (preferably impact) socket. Use your 02 sensor socket when you install the new one.
    1. · Registered
      151 Posts
      Agreed, this is exactly what I've used for this job and worked great. With the wheels off, took the bolts out from the bottom with no problem. Just use low profile socket on it. Great tool overall. 1/4 in, 3/8 in. Drive Long Reach Dual Flex Head Ratchet part number 67994
    1. · Registered
      2003 Highlander
      894 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
      See photos below and on subsequent pages.

      2003 V6 AWD 307k miles.

      You can do this. The dealer wants $480 for this service, I have done it twice now. The first time was brutal but the second time I must have learned something 'cause it went a lot better. Takes about three hours, start to finish with tools put away. Proper tools and sequence are important. My cost was $35 for plugs purchased on line. A savings of $445.

      -3/8 drive ratchet: Pittsburgh (Harbor Freight) w/extender handle. Model 62312

      -3/8 drive extension set: Channel Lock Wobble Extension Set 3, 6, and 10 inch. Part No. 350961 (I bought these for this job but had everything else. Nice set to have.)

      -Extra extension: standard 3/8 drive 3-inch, Craftsman.

      -3/8 drive universal joint, standard, Craftsman

      -Spark plug socket: standard (no-name) 3/8 drive by 5/8 inch. Note: I have several of these but the one that works best has a rubber boot inside to grab the plug. You want it to gently hold the plug from slipping out yet loose enough to pull off the plug without separating from the extensions.

      -¼ drive ratchet: Pittsburgh Model 62331. Has a longish handle.

      -¼ drive extension: Three-inch (Tekton, I think.)

      -¼ drive by 10mm and 12mm socket. (standard, Craftsman)

      Spark plug tools: Coin type feeler gauge. These type work well to rough-check and adjust the gap. Then I use a flat feeler gauge for precision gap check. Only one of the six plugs needed adjustment (0.044 inch).

      -Two 12mm open-end wrenches

      -One 10mm gear wrench

      -10 inch standard vice grips

      -12 or 14 inch extra-long flat screwdriver

      -5mm Allen wrench

      -paint can opener key

      -Good pen light or tactical light

      -Magnetic mechanic's pick-up tool (optional)

      -short step ladder (optional)

      -Spark plugs, six, Denso SK 20R11 Iridium #3297

      -Electricians tape, 3M Super 33+ (Tape socket extensions together and to armor your right forearm with wraps of tape. You'll see why later.)

      -Permatex aluminum-based anti-seize, #80078 (Light coating on plug threads.)

      -Permatex dielectric grease, #22058 (optional, small dab on tip of plug connectors)

      Remove engine cover. Under the Toyota logo is a friction fit clip. Once the three Allen head nuts in the front have been loosened the cover pulls up and off. 5mm Allen wrench.

      Front plugs:
      The front plugs are easy-peasy. I'm not going to comment on those except to say that there is no need to disconnect the electrical connectors. There is enough slack built into the wiring loom to remove the coil packs without removing the connectors. Also, the seal ring on the underside of the coil pack can fall off as you pull the pack. Keep track of these. It's easy to re-install a coil and forget to include the ring.

      On to the dreaded rear plugs.....each rear plug has a different sequence.

      But first:

      1. Loosen two 12mm jam nuts, slide cruise control cable from bracket on the throttle body. Two 12mm open-end wrenches.
      2. Undo end of cruise control cable from throttle body and flex out of the way.
      3. Remove cruise control cable mounting bracket. ¼ inch drive 12mm socket on ratchet with 3-inch extension.
      Driver side:

      1. Working from the front of the car, access the coil pack from under the throttle body. This is why you removed the cruise control cable and bracket and adorned your forearm with tape. The underside of the throttle body has rough edges, careful. Using a light you can see the coil retaining bolt clearly below the throttle body. A gear wrench easily accesses the bolt. Unbolt coil and slide up then turn sideways and flex it out of the way. Do not disconnect electrical connector, just let the coil hang there. 10mm gear wrench.
      2. Slide socket with extensions down onto plug between firewall and cylinder head. Unscrew plug and withdraw. 5/8 spark plug socket, std 3-inch ext., wobble 3-inch ext., universal joint, wobble 6-inch ext., 3/8 drive ratchet. Total 17-inch reach.
      3. Replace plug. Move on to middle plug. Leave coil pack hanging for now.
      Middle plug:
      1. There is a random hidden ground wire above the middle coil pack that is in the way. By feel alone unbolt this wire from cylinder head, flex out of the way. You cannot withdraw the coil pack without unbolting said wire. 10mm gear wrench.
      2. Access the middle coil pack from under the throttle body. You can just see the coil bolt head and can feel it with your finger tips. The gear wrench can easily get on it. You need to shove your forearm way under the throttle body. Unbolt coil and slide up and sideways, flex out of the way. Do not disconnect electrical connector. Very-very tight clearance. The boot on the lower end of the coil tube will flex a bit to gain clearance as you turn it sideways. This is the hardest coil to pull but it can be done. 10mm gear wrench.
      3. Slide socket with extensions down onto plug between firewall and cylinder head. Unscrew plug and withdraw. (Same socket rig as driver side.)
      4. Replace plug.
      5. Re-install coil pack.
      6. Re-install driver side coil pack. Move on to passenger side.
      Passenger side:

      1. Working from the fender side. Remove ell-shaped hose from PCV valve. Do not remove PCV valve itself. Once the hose is off the PCV, twist and pull the hose towards the fender to remove it fully. Vice grips for spring clamp ears. Long screwdriver to pry with.
      2. You need to disconnect the electrical connector from the coil pack (only this one). Tap the connector to loosen accumulated dirt and grit. Use paint can opener to press the connector catch and the tip of the screwdriver to pry the connector off. This is a hard connector to remove. (Tip: practice first on one of the front coil connectors.) Paint can opener and long screwdriver.
      3. Remove coil pack bolt. Pull coil pack up and towards the fender to clear cylinder head. 10mm socket on ¼ drive ratchet or 10mm gear wrench.
      4. Slide socket with extensions down onto plug between firewall and cylinder head. You can easily see the plug hole from the fender side. Unscrew plug and withdraw toward fender. (Same rig as driver side only substitute the top most 6-inch extension with 10-inch extension. Total 21-inch reach.)
      5. Replace plug.
      6. Re-install coil and re-connect electrical connector. You are almost done.
      Lastly, re-install (in order):
      1. ell-shaped PCV hose. Lube ends with a little light grease, slips on easy then.
      2. Ground cable to back of cylinder head. You cannot see the bolt hole. This will need to be done with finger tips of both hands. Go easy and deliberately. It took me about 10 minutes to get this sucker back in. It's okay to remove your hat and rest your forehead on the firewall. You'll see what I mean. Magnetic pick-up tool, (probably.)
      3. Cruise control bracket and cable. Note locator pin position on throttle body for alignment of bracket.
      4. Engine cover. Done! WoHoo!
      A few tips:
      -Find an assistant with small hands. Especially for pulling the electrical connector off the passenger side coil pack and removing the bolt from that coil pack.
      -To install plugs, push the plug into the socket rig then thread the rig down the hole in the cylinder head. The wobble extensions help alot to “bend” the tool down into the plug well. You may need to disconnect the top-most (6-inch) extension then reconnect it once the plug is down the hole.
      -Tighten plugs by hand until snug then another ½ turn 'til you can feel the seal washer has crushed.
      -Some say anti-seize is not needed for spark plug threads, but I used it the last time (147k miles ago) and the plugs came out smoothly with no corrosion on the threads.
      -Pulling the entire intake manifold and throttle body is the other method used to get at the rear plugs. I have not done it but I've seen pictures on the web and it does not look like fun. With the right tools and sequence this procedure is far easier and faster. Good Luck!

      Photos, left to right: Sockets-extensions taped together. Go over the top! Socket holds plug nicely. PCV hose. Rig positioned down plug well-drivers side.


    1. · Registered
      2013 Subaru BRZ
      2,400 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #30 ·
      I went to HF today and played with the HF 1/2 flex head ratchet again. The ratcheting mechanism is silky smooth and the flex part is very stable, more so than the Craftsman ratchet's 5 fixed stops. So overall, the HF ratchet is a superior tool for sure to me. Maybe the flex head will become floppy after long time of use. But that can be fixed by a free exchange. So yah, the HF one is more desirable. But since I got the Craftsman for next to nothing, I decided to get their "1/4 in, 3/8 in. Drive Long Reach Dual Flex Head Ratchet" instead.

      This one is more unique in that I rarely see this kind of tool from low budget tool makers. The handle is really flat which will be helpful when working in the cramped area like TB change. It is also longer than all my 1/4 and 3/8 ratchets, so I am going to use it like a 1/2 ratchet and see how it goes. There is an HF on my way to work. Exchange is super easy.
      • Like
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    1. · Banned
      2008 Toyota Camry Base / CE
      18,306 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #23 ·
      i just look at my serpentine belt tensioner bolt this morning, about 3 inches +/- half inch clearance, my astro pneumatic nano 3/8" 19mm stubby socket is about 1" tall, with harbor freight dual flex 14.5 inches long handle ratchet, thin profile, enough for leverage and clearance, therefore took the belt off without any struggle.

      the 1/2" drive and socket will be very tight.
      I wanna say my cousin brought me his tool and it didn't it but we also didn't have a stubby socket.

    1. · Registered
      26 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
      So my 2003 Highlander got the dreaded P0325 code. Tore it down and pulled the sensor. I have a data system that can read the output signal from the sensor and when comparing the Bank 1 that was bad with the Bank 2 that is supposedly good it was pretty clear (or thats what I thought at the time) . The good responded with a nice decaying 7.5kHz ring when hit but the bad one was intermittent and had a lot of noise.

      I purchased an aftermarket one at O'Reillys and tested that with the same setup. Signal looked good but was at a bit higher frequency. I figured that would not matter. Installed it and took for test drive. P0325 popped up in a few miles.

      I can probably pull it in a hour and put it back in 2 hours now when it is fresh in memory but I ham hesitant dumping $450 on a pair of OEM sensors until I am sure the sensor is the issue. I left the dreaded M10x1.25 screw in the back out.

      By the way, the trick for that *(@#& screw is a short 14mm socket and Harbor freights PITTSBURGH 1/4 In, 3/8 In. Drive Long Reach Dual Flex Head Ratchet. The 1/4 end on the same ratchet and a 10mm socket does well on the clamp next to the throttle body holding the fuel line. I followed Haynes and left the throttle body in the car.

      However. I am not 100% sure a OEM sensor will fix it. The cable was in good shape, the old sensor was bad but I was able to test the new one and it was not dead on in output. I replaced the harness too. Reinstalled the Bank 2 stock sensor.

      I'm tempted to make a jumper harness to swap Bank 1 and 2 between the sensor harness and the main harness. Does anyone have an idea on where I can get the mating connector for the harness? Does Toyota sell them? Would a scrap yard cut a connector from an engine?

      Below is some measurements I did on them. I figure it can be of use for someone.


      2003 Highlander
      2010 Sequoia

      I think I understand what type of sensor they are. They are similar to what was known as Shock Pulse Sensors for monitoring bearings. Its a Quartz crystal and a mass with vary little damping. They act as a tuning fork at 7200Hz and will start to ring if it is impacted. Kind of make sense :) It makes it easy to interface with a simple cirquit that senses voltage and the voltage will be proportional to the amount of shock energy. One can probably test them by hooking them up to a headphone and tap on them or make a cable so you can hook them to the sound card in the computer at the line input. They should ring like a very high pitch bell when getting an shock.

      Here is the output of the good sensor. The right plot is the voltage over time. The left plot is a FFT, it show how much of a signal is at a specific frequency. A pure tone gives a spike like this. Note it is at 7200Hz.

      Here it is zoomed in a bit. You can see the voltage swing. The sensor is actually not outputting a voltage. it is outputting a charge. The voltage is totally depending on what is used to measure with. I'm using a data system that loads the sensor very little.

      Here is the output of the Bank 1 (Bad sensor) You can see its intermittent and noisy but at 7200Hz.

      Here is the O'Reiley "Import Direct" $69 sensor. Clean tone but at higher frequency. About 7640Hz.
    1. · Registered
      395 Posts
      I've driven in Pittsburgh and it is not a brake friendly place to drive.
      Front rotors should be good for "turning" or resurfacing.
      A good shop will measure and verify that the rotors have the thickness to do so.
      I just had my front brakes done at my local dealership at 86K miles on my 2016.
      I had an aggressive service writer, but knew the job was coming soon anyhow.
      The rotors were resurfaced and new pads were installed.
      The pads used were ceramic with the "AZ" in the Toyota number.
      I had seen a video that stated that this pad won't last as long as original from factory but is "fine".
      The more expensive pad is the actual OE from the factory and is a harder material (semi metallic?).
      MANY replacement parts won't last as long as were installed originally on the vehicle, even with OE brand parts.
      Sometimes you can locate actual original, other times you cannot (like exhaust system components).
      I had the brake fluid replaced also.
      The rust on the rotors would be normal for the age and where the vehicle has been driven.
      In the past, on other vehicles, the Raybestos Advanced Technology (their top of line) with the coating would be as rusted as yours in 2 years :-(
      Rear brakes, as mentioned by another poster usually outlast the front.
      However, something may have happened, likely the calipers sticking, etc.
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