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    1. · イリジウム
      Joined
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      15,408 Posts
      No. You don't break the studs or distort the threads that you have problem putting the nuts on there later.

      You can use a torx socket (e-socket) to remove one of the bolts. One should be enough for you to wiggle the pump out of there. The other method is to jack up the engine for additional clearance. I'd go with the e-socket method, but don't force it that you break the stud.

      One of the studs (near the radiator) should come loose and the other red threadlocked in there tight as described in: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/83-1st-generation-2001-2007/337849-1mz-fe-diy-timing-belt.html
      I guess heating the area should loosen the threadlocker, but you should be able to remove one without heat and wiggle the pump out.

      Get your e-socket set, find a 20% of coupon in car magazines or join their email list:
      http://www.harborfreight.com/17-Piece-14-in-38-in-Drive-E-Socket-and-Star-Bit-Set-67930.html

      See also:
      http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...g-belt-water-pump-crank-cam-seals-part-i.html
      http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-belt-water-pump-crank-cam-seals-part-ii.html

      Hello, I am new to this forum and I am doing the timing belt water pump replacement on my 94 Toyota Camry xle 3.0l v6. I am currently stuck with the water pump not coming off due to 2 long studs or bolts. Haynes repair Manuel says 1 of these must be removed to remove the pump. Its brief instructions were to grab it with vice grips and remove it and replace with a new one. Does this mean it get broken off and replaced? Can anyone help. I apologize for butting my head into someone else's thread. Any help would be great thanks.
       
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