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Try some 10w30 oil, it is thicker and should use a little less. Try the Walmart Supertech Synthetic....it is less than $15 for 5qts. You are not going to hurt it...200K, hardly any oil in it numerous times. Maybe try a few different brands of oil...even some 10w40 this Summer.
Let Grandma have a cheese steak...if she's 85...live a little, before the taste buds are totally gone...onions, peppers and mushrooms
 

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Try some 10w30 oil, it is thicker and should use a little less. Try the Walmart Supertech Synthetic....it is less than $15 for 5qts. You are not going to hurt it...200K, hardly any oil in it numerous times. Maybe try a few different brands of oil...even some 10w40 this Summer.
Let Grandma have a cheese steak...if she's 85...live a little, before the taste buds are totally gone...onions, peppers and mushrooms
The big debate is what thicker oil to go with that will be safe. My research shows the second number is what is important so going up to 40 (5w-40) would be better than (10w-30) if you originally started at 5w-30. I think the first number just helps with cold vs warm weather. 5w-40 is a lot harder to find than I thought but I did see it in my local Sams Club in bulk
 

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The big debate is what thicker oil to go with that will be safe. My research shows the second number is what is important so going up to 40 (5w-40) would be better than (10w-30) if you originally started at 5w-30. I think the first number just helps with cold vs warm weather. 5w-40 is a lot harder to find than I thought but I did see it in my local Sams Club in bulk
My research shows:
Procrastination and excessive planning without action have the same net worth: nothing. More important to take action and try something, to prove that the first step is in the "right" direction than to think there is some perfectBLANK that will solveBLANK___. (won't let me put a long underlined space that makes sense)
Procrastination 101: It is never too late to do nothing about it.

that will be safe:
You are not going to hurt it...200K, hardly any oil in it numerous times. (from my previous post)
 

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I am just getting my 2007 back up running. I am going to flush the heck out of the engine and was wondering if anyone has ever pouring flush into the cylinders and let it sit over night? Seems like that could melt the sludge off of the rings.
 

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08 Toyota Camry 2AZ-FE R9K Tuned
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I am just getting my 2007 back up running. I am going to flush the heck out of the engine and was wondering if anyone has ever pouring flush into the cylinders and let it sit over night? Seems like that could melt the sludge off of the rings.
 

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I am just getting my 2007 back up running. I am going to flush the heck out of the engine and was wondering if anyone has ever pouring flush into the cylinders and let it sit over night? Seems like that could melt the sludge off of the rings.
Bad idea to "pour" anything into the cylinder....liquids do not compress!!! There was something 40 years ago that GM sold that was called "Top Engine Cleaner" that was poured down the carburetor while running....it smoked like all get out. Only used it a couple times.

If you were to dribble half a teaspoon of something in there....that would be OK. If engine is not sitting up 90degrees to the ground....then that part of the cylinder is not going to "get it's porridge". Whatever it is, will leak down into the oil, so oil needs to be changed shortly. Or, leave the spark plugs out, crank the engine over a few times to "blow" the liquids out... Unconventional treatments demand unconventional solutions.
 

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Thank Diesel, I would make sure to spin it over without the plugs. I even considered filling the engine to the top with diesel and letting it sit for a few days.
 

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Just remember, if it was as easy as filling the top of the cylinders with some sort of liquid to help break up carbon deposits or whatever, everyone would do it and it would rank as a top fix. The real fix for a 2AZ-FE is updated pistons, in other words a engine rebuild.
 

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Thank Diesel, I would make sure to spin it over without the plugs. I even considered filling the engine to the top with diesel and letting it sit for a few days.
35 years ago I poured automatic transmission oil down the carburetor of a 402 BBC, (while running) and enough to make it "choke down" for it to sit in a vehicle outside, until the engine could be transplanted into something else. It sat for 5 years, did it again, sat another 5 years....no problems with cylinders, pistons or valves = success. Went into my Dad's 1970 Impala after all of that.
 

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Bad idea to "pour" anything into the cylinder....liquids do not compress!!! There was something 40 years ago that GM sold that was called "Top Engine Cleaner" that was poured down the carburetor while running....it smoked like all get out. Only used it a couple times.

If you were to dribble half a teaspoon of something in there....that would be OK. If engine is not sitting up 90degrees to the ground....then that part of the cylinder is not going to "get it's porridge". Whatever it is, will leak down into the oil, so oil needs to be changed shortly. Or, leave the spark plugs out, crank the engine over a few times to "blow" the liquids out... Unconventional treatments demand unconventional solutions.
Exactly. You can do a piston soak, you just need to keep in mind that you need to remove the spark plugs and crank the engine over to push out the liquids (and be mindful that they may be bad for the paint and/or rubber parts so clean it all up) and change your oil plus the filter at some point afterwards. It won't hurt anything to run it for a bit: you actually add some cleaners like Kreen into the oil for a short run (500 miles or so). Just change it sooner than the normal change.

Saying all that - piston soak probably won't accomplish much. That carbon is baked on those piston heads. I did a Kreen soak experiment and posted the results up on this site, several years back. I ran the boroscope into the cylinders to get before video and images, then soaked the pistons overnight with Kreen. After expunging the cylinders I scoped it again and saw virtually no difference on the piston heads. Then I ran the cleaner in the oil for 500 miles, scoped it again. Again, no notable difference.

If you are lucky the cleaner will leak down and get into the oil ring and maybe help breakup some crud there. That is the cause of oil consumption: the holes in the oil ring are plugged up.
 

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Exactly. You can do a piston soak, you just need to keep in mind that you need to remove the spark plugs and crank the engine over to push out the liquids (and be mindful that they may be bad for the paint and/or rubber parts so clean it all up) and change your oil plus the filter at some point afterwards. It won't hurt anything to run it for a bit: you actually add some cleaners like Kreen into the oil for a short run (500 miles or so). Just change it sooner than the normal change.

Saying all that - piston soak probably won't accomplish much. That carbon is baked on those piston heads. I did a Kreen soak experiment and posted the results up on this site, several years back. I ran the boroscope into the cylinders to get before video and images, then soaked the pistons overnight with Kreen. After expunging the cylinders I scoped it again and saw virtually no difference on the piston heads. Then I ran the cleaner in the oil for 500 miles, scoped it again. Again, no notable difference.

If you are lucky the cleaner will leak down and get into the oil ring and maybe help breakup some crud there. That is the cause of oil consumption: the holes in the oil ring are plugged up.
Years ago I did a water injection experiment on a 350 Chevy (my own) to run maximum ignition advance, on regular gas, to lessen pinging. Water injected into the intake (or antifreeze with a bad head gasket) will clean up the piston heads, a lot. If it cleaned up anything further down, I don't know....would I recommend it....absolutely NOT. Think steam cleaning inside.

I think the jury is still out on how the rings got plugged up in the first place, 10K mile oil changes, oil breakdown, poor piston design (oil drain back holes too small?) I can't believe that it is too much oil splashing around because large (truck) diesels have "piston coolers" which is a stream of oil sprayed onto the underside of the piston to prevent the piston from melting on maximum power intervals, like going up a mountain. Anyhow, it is probably chicken vs egg.
 

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Years ago I did a water injection experiment on a 350 Chevy (my own) to run maximum ignition advance, on regular gas, to lessen pinging. Water injected into the intake (or antifreeze with a bad head gasket) will clean up the piston heads, a lot. If it cleaned up anything further down, I don't know....would I recommend it....absolutely NOT. Think steam cleaning inside.

I think the jury is still out on how the rings got plugged up in the first place, 10K mile oil changes, oil breakdown, poor piston design (oil drain back holes too small?) I can't believe that it is too much oil splashing around because large (truck) diesels have "piston coolers" which is a stream of oil sprayed onto the underside of the piston to prevent the piston from melting on maximum power intervals, like going up a mountain. Anyhow, it is probably chicken vs egg.
Plenty of speculation and info out there, the main fix is updated pistons.
 

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I think the jury is still out on how the rings got plugged up in the first place, 10K mile oil changes, oil breakdown, poor piston design (oil drain back holes too small?) I can't believe that it is too much oil splashing around because large (truck) diesels have "piston coolers" which is a stream of oil sprayed onto the underside of the piston to prevent the piston from melting on maximum power intervals, like going up a mountain. Anyhow, it is probably chicken vs egg.
I have pulled my bad pistons and checked them out (2009 Camry 2AZ-FE engine), and have watched videos of comparisons with oil burning pistons and the "new" design Toyota put in place. From what I can tell from that limited info is the actual drain back holes are not plugged, its the oil ring that gets caked up. The new piston still has just the four holes per side, and they appear to be the same diameter. I did not see a side-side comparison of a new oil ring versus the old ring, but I wonder if they enlarged the holes on that any, or did some kind of design change to help reduce the buildup there.

If you go to post #64 of my engine swap thread here you get a closeup of my bad pistons. They were awful.


Clearly that oil ring was plugged solid.
 

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I have pulled my bad pistons and checked them out (2009 Camry 2AZ-FE engine), and have watched videos of comparisons with oil burning pistons and the "new" design Toyota put in place. From what I can tell from that limited info is the actual drain back holes are not plugged, its the oil ring that gets caked up. The new piston still has just the four holes per side, and they appear to be the same diameter. I did not see a side-side comparison of a new oil ring versus the old ring, but I wonder if they enlarged the holes on that any, or did some kind of design change to help reduce the buildup there.

If you go to post #64 of my engine swap thread here you get a closeup of my bad pistons. They were awful.


Clearly that oil ring was plugged solid.
Wow, I saw the pictures and only read posts #62 to #65, but will soon read the whole thread. The original problem looks like valve stem seals. Years back I would hook an air compressor to one cylinder, take off one valve spring at a time to replace the umbrella style valve stem seals (Ford). Chevy never had trouble because it was under the valve keepers, and couldn't fall apart or crack. With 100 lbs of air, the pressure would hold the valve in place, reinstall the spring and keepers, then move on to the next cylinder.
 

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Wow, I saw the pictures and only read posts #62 to #65, but will soon read the whole thread. The original problem looks like valve stem seals. Years back I would hook an air compressor to one cylinder, take off one valve spring at a time to replace the umbrella style valve stem seals (Ford). Chevy never had trouble because it was under the valve keepers, and couldn't fall apart or crack. With 100 lbs of air, the pressure would hold the valve in place, reinstall the spring and keepers, then move on to the next cylinder.
Valve stem issues are a regular issue to the 2AZ-FE at high miles. My 08 Camry at 36,000 miles I was able to warranty the oil burning TSB. We got it at 18,500 miles and I don't remember the maintenance of it other than that I at least did it once before we warrantied it and my mom might've gotten an oil change before that. When we got the car it did sit in the garage for a bit until I got my drivers permit but before that my mom had taken it out of state and afterwards was driven every so often by my cousins.

Did I really burn oil? I probably did but at the same time the person who worked on my car was my classmate from school so he might've "convinced" his service manager that it was actually burning.

On that note, we should stop talking about the 2AZ-FE here as there is a giant thread about it and this thread is about the 2AR-FE which is quite different and has a lot of lessons learned from the 2AZ-FE has made the 2AR-FE a lot more bulletproof compared to the 2AZ-FE. The 2AR-FE is a 10 year old design at this point so compared to the stripped head bolts and oil burning issues of the 2AZ-FE lifetime of 20 years, the 2AR-FE is a good motor.

So once again, lets get back onto the 2AR-FE and not the 2AZ-FE.
 
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