[fenixus]

^^^ Thanks for all that info haha

So it's ok to use a bigger oil filter? would that require more oil or just the usual amount? Should I also replace the crush washer and bolt when I do the oil change? I was taught to change them when I learned haha

Also, how can I tell if my struts are bad? How much do they usually cost to get replaced and what struts do you recommend?

Again, Thanks for all the help!

All good advice
I would swap the spark plug wireset with NGK TE58 (for 4cyl) when doing the tune up, they cost like $30 free shipping from amazon. Those wires IMHO are as good as OEM Denso/Toyota.

When using oversized oil filter (e.g. Motorcraft FL400S or Pureone PL14477) just use additional 0.2qts more of oil on top of 3.8qts that it needs. in other words dump full 4qts into engine and it will be perfect

You could also get a full synthetic Mobil1 5W-30 with M1 EP filter, now on promo in Autozone at $29.99 (5qts+filter).

The crush washer can be reused one or two times if it's metal, the plastic one should be changed every time. I usually buy like a dozen of those OEM metal washers from online dealer when getting other parts (or get washers locally over the counter, I like bothering my local dealer with a single bolt/washer special orders haha).

Struts are a different beast, but you should be fine with Gabriel Ultra Struts from autozone (LLT warranty), but you should get all other rubber parts and mounts OEM from dealer online (up to 30% off MSRP cheaper and best quality IMO).

 

[fenixus]

When I was doing an oil change on my dad's avalon, I noticed that special also. So I got the 5qt jug and 2 quart bottles.(2gr-fe take 6.4 quarts:facepalm I asked for the filter and didn't notice at first but the guy brought some Bosch filter. Also bought some other stuff like, brake cleaner, fuel injector cleaner, air filter and crc tb cleaner.etc.. Totaled out to be 85 bucks. I was like :wtf:, why is it so expensive He said, "OHH, we dont have the M1 filter in stock for that car." So you just decide to get something else and think I wouldn't notice/mind paying $30 extra bucks. What an Idiot.

yeah they do such idiotic moves sometimes, but usually they inform about a problem :facepalm:. i think the guy wanted to rip off more money from you, sad. at least my local autozone is not bad, they piss me off sometimes too with their "wisdom" (e.g. they will NOT sell you an oversized filter on promo because it's not the stock size, so it doesn't fit your car, grrrr) and attitude (sorry to say but that applies mostly to the female manager they have), but in general they are cool people.

My Advance Auto parts is like what you described. every time I buy something on promo I have to prove them the promo exists by showing them that in their stupid in store brochure otherwise they want to charge me normal price :facepalm:

last time they had a national promo on Chevron Techron 12oz buy 1 get 1 free (on internet, North edition). guess what happened, those bastards pulled out those pages from their all brochures and pretended they never existed!

 

[fenixus]

BTW sign up for Autozone's reward card. Depending on the store, every $20+ per transaction they give you 1 point. Every 5 points you get $20 to spend in store. The downside is a $130 assembly gets you only 1 point.

Pep Boys have their own program too. Dollar based but you need to reach a higher amount.

I got Autozone card, but man it's hard for me to earn those points ... somehow I keep buying cheap crap from them and never hit the $20, since the store is local I usually drop in for cheap single item and never earn those points haha, in 1 year I got $20 off discount only once and I spent a few good hundreds (mostly various oils, some tools and chemicals) over there so far hehe.

 

[fenixus]

Thanks again for all the info! :thumbsup:

I really dont know how much longer I want to keep the car. My sister and I both go into an accident with the car a month apart. :facepalm: So we both think its kinda cursed haha I'm only 22 so I know my insurance will skyrocket after my current policy ends. I was considering selling the camry and getting a newer car with more safety features but I think insurance will be cheaper if I just keep driving the camry. Not really sure haha I'll have to go talk to an agent and see what they think I should do.

So on my way to work, a Goodyear Gemeni service center was advertising for a $9.95 oil change. Should I just get that? haha It is winter and just snowed here in Jersey haha

if you are from NJ you should try contacting CURE, it's a mutual exchange insurance fund (or whatever their full name is) with insurance price much lower than anywhere else. worked for me, as I had poor/insufficient credit record and they don't check that.

ask for quote with CURE, might help you save some money in Jersey:
http://www.drivewell.com
company is located in Princeton, NJ they do not even have a walk-in office, all is done by phone and internet.

oh and last thing, bro stay AWAY from such cheap oil change deals
I made a mistake to try a $14.99 oil change deal in my area once (some promo in one of local shop), oh man ... cheap filter gasket got blown a month or two later and made a big mess on front of engine.

 

[fenixus]

wow checking that insurance company out now haha is it any good though? I currently have 21st century and they're pretty good. I'm thinking of going solo on insuarnce so my parents wont have to suffer. sucks being a guy under 25. :headbang:

I guess i'll get the deal that autozone has with mobil one haha

yup, CURE works for me.

I compare price of NJ insurance premiums among Geico, CURE and Allstate from time to time, to see if maybe it's time to switch, but CURE always comes up less expensive seriously (a few hundred $$ lower annually).

We had couple colissions with wife's 5s-fe car (only 1 was somewhat my fault and wasn't reimbursed by neither of insurance companies) and they are fine, reimbursed me even when an uninsured DUI driver rear ended the car (fortunately only a bumper damage) and filed a lawsuit against the other driver to recover the deductible I had to pay (it worked too).

 

[fenixus]

Not all repair shops are like this, but watch "Jiffy Lube Caught on Tape":

i've seen it before. I would personally burn that place down, a bunch of f**king scam artists ... the whole chain is like that, because the scam habits come from the top of management ... must written in their company statement "to cheat, break, lie and steal" ... wondering what mission they have

After that video evidence, in most countries (especially in over-protective EU) they would be shut down already, their bank accounts frozen, management prosecuted and sentenced.

My blood boils when I see that you tube video.

 

[fenixus]

yes, that's why more and more people want to DIY as nowadays no one really trusts any mechanical shops :facepalm:

amazing what a black PR can do ... and it wasn't done by competition LOL, it was done by independent journalists (potential customers). horrifying is it?

I'd rather stick to thinking that dealers do the job right, they only turn up the amount you owe them hehe (I wish I know)... but based on own experience (cheating on differential flush at dealer) I know they do it too and lie to your face about job done and take your money anyways ... it's so sad ... that's not how you make customers come back ... besides it destroys the good name of Toyota (in our case) ...

same about local shops using cheapest shittiest part out there to get the job done and then people complain their toyotas suck because they go bad so often ... well it's not their toyotas going bad, it's the shitty parts that's been used on them :facepalm:

 

[fenixus]

nice, M1 FS HM is probably the best you can get among 5W-30 on local promotion.

spark plugs as long as they are listed as OE fit in catalog come pre-gapped (part number ends with "-11"), so you don't need to adjust anything.

 

[fenixus]

NGK website doesn't work now, but usually they give the plug number (I think it's model number, not part number) like for NGK Laser Platinum - BKR6EKPB11 (part number 3452)

for a full transmission flush you would need up to 12qts or so. but simple drain & refill takes no more than 3qts plus 1.7qts for the differential drain and refill (it's separate from transmission chambers unlike on V6 models where it's joined)

when dropping the pan and replacing strainer you can account for adding around additional 1qt to refill amount.

 

[fenixus]

So I failed to do the oil change/spark plugs this weekend. It was just too cold/windy outside. I did however get everything ready for when it's not as cold to do it.

As for the spark plugs, do they need to be torqued down? There's a picture on the side of the spark plug box. I'll post it but it doesnt say any torque measurement. I did look online and it says proper torque is required? What should I torque it to?

yeah heeehheee, we had -1F last night and this morning in NJ, making like -15F including strong cold winds (Real Feel) .... brrrr ....

yup, the plugs torque on 5s-fe is 13ft-lbs.
don't use any adapters down the spark plug tube as it will keep detaching on removal
any adapters you use must be used on top.

 

[fenixus]

Yes, some socket/extension combination will do that. I find Craftsman socket and extension quite good. Otherwise use masking tape to tape up the extension to the socket. Works too.

right. it's a very good idea actually, somehow I have never thought about it haha :facepalm:
I usually was "thickening" the joint going to socket by jamming a piece of thick paper on it LOL .... but yeah your solution is better

 

[fenixus]

thats a good idea haha i'll have to remember that when i go to do it. I own a craftsman tool set but the spark plug wrench is a 3/8" drive and the torque wrench that autozone rents is a 1/2" drive. I'm thinking of getting a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter so I wont have to buy a torque wrench haha

cheap torque wrenches usually on sale in local Harbor Freight:

3/8'' 5-80 ft-lbs (good for most of things, like brakes) @ $21.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-807.html

1/2'' 20-150 ft-lbs (good for bigger stuff like suspension) @ $24.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-ha...edium=cse&utm_source=googlebase&hft_adv=10063

1/4'' (good for pan bolts) @ $19.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qu...edium=cse&utm_source=googlebase&hft_adv=10063

the 3/8'' and 1/2'' you can get sometimes at $9-12 on good sale over there

 

[fenixus]

yeah haha we've got hit with another blizzard nicely ... was digging out my both cars for an hour ... again this Winter is funny LOL :lol:

still we are lucky it wasn't as bad for us as for dudes in DC area :facepalm:

good stuff I see in above pics :thumbsup:

 

[fenixus]

so today is fairly warm so I decided to change the spark plugs and do the oil change.. but ran into problems..

1. There's quite a bit of oil in the spark plug tube.:disappoin which i know means one of the gaskets is leaking.

2. I can get the second spark plug out from the left but the first one..has something weird. The socket doesnt go in as far and when I looked inside, it looked like there was a bolt or something on top? I took a smaller socket and I think 6mm socket fit over it and I could turn it but it doesnt go anywhere.

3. I can't pull the spark plug wire off the 3rd and 4th spark plugs. It wont budge. :facepalm:

I'm really wondering if I should just sell it and get into a different car. grrrrrrrrrrrrrr

per 1) most likely the tube nut seals on top (right below the 30mm nuts) are leaking allowing the oil splashes to get into the tube from outside (under the valve cover).

before you replace them. the very common problem is the nuts are simply loose. get a 30mm socket from autozone (loan a tool program) and a 3/8'' torque wrench with adapter to fit the 1/2'' drive socket and tighten them all to 17ft-lbs. it may stop the leak if it was coming from top of tube.

per 2) how was the wire tip end looking like when compared to others? anything missing? you may need a pair of long needle nose pliers to fish it out. sounds like something is still attached on top of spark plug.

per 3) they may be rusted to spark plug. try gently twisting/rotating the wire boots and pull. since you've got new wires waiting for install, no need to be actually gentle with them, if you have to, just pull on the wire (a no no if you are re-using them).

don't give up

 

[fenixus]

valve cover on 5s-fe engine is super easy to take off, check this out, it has pics:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=339863

tube nut seals are the black rubber rings that go below the metal nuts (30mm).
nuts hold the valve cover down while nut seals prevent oil splashing inside the valve cover from getting out or inside the tubes (making it look like tubes leak from top).

 

[fenixus]

I just realized, I have the same generic torque wrench as you. :lol:

mine comes from a sale in Harbor Freight Tools
was cheap and works awesome - I love it

 

[fenixus]

hey, there is also a chance that a spark plug went loose and allowed oil or some vapors to come up from cylinder below up to the tube. it happens.
same common thing is worn tube nut seal on top, causing similar effect, but oil looks more smeared all over the tube and not only at bottom.

as mentioned above, first try re-tightening the nuts, it takes 5 minutes with proper tools and it might just solve your problem.

 

[fenixus]

unless the leak is severe (plugs submerged in oil) don't worry about it much. you can try cleaning it a bit with shop towels (e.g. the blue ones from autozone).
Install new plugs and re-tighten the nuts and call it a day. if oil leak from top returns (easy to check by pulling the wire boot off and taking a peek) just replace the nut seals.

 

[fenixus]

there was quite a bit of oil in the 4th and 3rd plug tubes. So I'm guessing this is something more than just the seal nuts. so what I should I do then? should I just stick a rag down there and try to soak most of it up?

yeah, you can try soaking it up with something.

were the #3&4 spark plugs loose?

if there is that much oil than either oil is coming from bottom (leaky tube
threads in cylinder head) or the nuts on top are completely loose - can you turn them freely with 2 fingers?

 

[fenixus]

check battery terminals if tight, clean and secure. check all fuses with a cheap tester (e.g. from autozone, etc.) to top test pins (green LED lights up when good).

double check the order of new wires on new spark plugs and make sure all of them "clicked" on both ends.