[beaming62]

Hello all. Been quite a while since I'm on. I just bought an 01 Camry LE today with 112,721 original miles on it. Not a bit of rust on it anywhere. Originally from Cape Cod and I'm in Vermont. Anyway the previous owner does not know if the timing belt & water pump was done at 90k as he bought it at 93k. Should I just assume it really needs to be changed immediately.
Thanks in advance.
Ron, in VT:thanks:

 

[95_Cam]

It's fairly cheap insurance. I'd have it done and anything else in the general area.

I have a 95 and had the belt, oil pump seal and water pump replaced around that mileage.


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[guapoman2000]

Hello all. Been quite a while since I'm on. I just bought an 01 Camry LE today with 112,721 original miles on it. Not a bit of rust on it anywhere. Originally from Cape Cod and I'm in Vermont. Anyway the previous owner does not know if the timing belt & water pump was done at 90k as he bought it at 93k. Should I just assume it really needs to be changed immediately.
Thanks in advance.
Ron, in VT:thanks:

Ron,

What Engine?

I have given up completely in worrying about when I need to replace the timing belt. My 1992 Camry XLE (Made in Japan) has the 5S-FE 4-cylinder and it is reaching 490,457 miles without any Engine Rebuilt history!:laugh:

I just drive and drive until the belt can't do it anymore and it is usually during start-up when the belt give way at the Main Crank. Usually is two lopes that had hair-line cracks and situated themselves right at the main Crank last time I shut down the Engine. The next morning, BLAM!:grin:

If we are discussing the 5S-FE Engine then, you don't have to worry about it because its a non-interference Engine.:wink:

 

[mcgowaw]

gpman2k, wow...that's a lot of miles on the same timing belt. it also seems like a lot of miles on a water pump. if a belt can go that long, then you really gotta love timing belts...;-)
tony

 

[beaming62]

Ron,

What Engine?

I have given up completely in worrying about when I need to replace the timing belt. My 1992 Camry XLE (Made in Japan) has the 5S-FE 4-cylinder and it is reaching 490,457 miles without any Engine Rebuilt history!:laugh:

I just drive and drive until the belt can't do it anymore and it is usually during start-up when the belt give way at the Main Crank. Usually is two lopes that had hair-line cracks and situated themselves right at the main Crank last time I shut down the Engine. The next morning, BLAM!:grin:

If we are discussing the 5S-FE Engine then, you don't have to worry about it because its a non-interference Engine.:wink:

Thanks for the quick reply. It is the 2.2 also made in japan. The only thing that makes me nervous is it has sat for a while with only occasional sart ups and small drives to keep the battery charged. I am more concerned with the waterpump bearings.
Thanks in advance
Ron, in VT

 

[mcgowaw]

is the water pump exposed to where you can see and touch it? if so, are there any signs of green/yellow leakage at the bottom of it? if you temporarily remove / slacken the s-belt, and spin the wp, does it wobble or make a noise?
tony

 

[guapoman2000]

gpman2k, wow...that's a lot of miles on the same timing belt. it also seems like a lot of miles on a water pump. if a belt can go that long, then you really gotta love timing belts...;-)
tony

Hey Tony,

You joking with me, right?:|

Nite Nite!:nerd:

 

[guapoman2000]

Hello all. Been quite a while since I'm on. I just bought an 01 Camry LE today with 112,721 original miles on it. Not a bit of rust on it anywhere. Originally from Cape Cod and I'm in Vermont. Anyway the previous owner does not know if the timing belt & water pump was done at 90k as he bought it at 93k. Should I just assume it really needs to be changed immediately.
Thanks in advance.
Ron, in VT:thanks:

If you have the V-6 Engine then, yes, I would change it out!

Here is what I mean about the two or three lopes that start cracking!

 

[guapoman2000]

Thanks for the quick reply. It is the 2.2 also made in japan. The only thing that makes me nervous is it has sat for a while with only occasional sart ups and small drives to keep the battery charged. I am more concerned with the waterpump bearings.
Thanks in advance
Ron, in VT

Ron,

The water pump bearings are lubed by the same Coolant so, if the car was not properly maintained it will spring a leak and you will have Coolant on your floor, especially overnight.

If not, then, just keep driving!

Don't fix something that is NOT broken, just my $0.02 cents worth.0

 

[guapoman2000]

Ron,

If you feel better then, go ahead and do the timing belt job.

There are very good after market water pumps out there but, the one thing that I will recommend for your 2001 is a genuine TOYOTA Thermostat!

If you use an After Market Thermostat, more than likely you will get really bad gas mileage because the after market thermostats are really not regulated for tight Engine Temperature that the Main Engine Computer would need to see when completely warmed. If the ECU-ECM does NOT see the Engine at the optimum Engine Temperature it will keep the Engine running Rich.

 

[speedy25]

If you use an After Market Thermostat, more than likely you will get really bad gas mileage because the after market thermostats are really not regulated for tight Engine Temperature that the Main Engine Computer would need to see when completely warmed. If the ECU-ECM does NOT see the Engine at the optimum Engine Temperature it will keep the Engine running Rich.

Sorry, I'm going to call BS on that one. The on ly difference between OEM and aftermarket is quality. Some have it and some dont.You find out which ones dont when your warm-up takes longer than it should or it overheats under load.

Back to timing belt/water pump stuff. If you dont have proof it was done like a work order or a parts receipt, it didnt happen. Parts can wear out and gently fail or do it catastrophically. My Corolla water pump "exploded" on my way to work one day without warning.

Maintenance is a good thing. Give your car some love.

-SP

 

[guapoman2000]

Sorry, I'm going to call BS on that one. The on ly difference between OEM and aftermarket is quality. Some have it and some dont.You find out which ones dont when your warm-up takes longer than it should or it overheats under load.

-SP

Well, I will not stoop to your implied language that you decided to use and express your disagreement.:frown::thumbsdow

Most Thermostats can be bought by selecting the temperature of opening and most don't even have a specification (after market). For those that do not have any specification and just say that it "FITS" your car is pretty poor selection.

For older vehicles this is NOT so much of an issue, however, the newer vehicles with much more sensors and ECU-ECM programming, especially to meet CAFE strict standards in emissions and Fuel Mileage it is a BIG deal.

https://www.napacanada.com/en/NAPA-Know-How/Thermostat-Replacement.aspx


So, lets just say we agree to disagree.:nerd:

 

[MrGiggles]

There are two trains of thought here.

1. Let sleeping dogs lay. Deal with the belt when it becomes a problem. You will be stranded, and there's no telling where it will decide to let go. Unlike many other engines, this one will not usually bend valves if the belt breaks, so you don't have to worry about that.

2. Preemptively replace the belt and related components. You have to pay now rather than later, but you have the peace of mind knowing that it will not be a problem in the near future.

If you frequently drive in areas where a break down can be dangerous, I would opt for #2. Most tow bills will cost as much as a new belt kit.

 

[guapoman2000]

Just to be clear, Timing Belts don't break. The lobes crack and then, don't hold then, the Engine goes off timing (harmlessly) and won't re-start.

Usually on Start-Up is when Timing Belt lobes bust which is the highest strain on Start-Up.

 

[MrGiggles]

Just to be clear, Timing Belts don't break. The lobes crack and then, don't hold then, the Engine goes off timing (harmlessly) and won't re-start.

Usually on Start-Up is when Timing Belt lobes bust which is the highest strain on Start-Up.

They can and do break. I've seen it first hand, and there are hundreds of pictures out there. It really doesn't matter if it falls off or breaks, the car is dead either way.

You can say that they usually only break on start-up, but there are a dozen or more threads on here where the belts have let go on the road.

You have an 83% chance of surviving Russian Roulette, but I'm still going to pull the bullet out of the chamber if given the chance. I wouldn't want the belt to let go doing 80mph on a 4-lane highway in heavy traffic.

 

[guapoman2000]

They can and do break. I've seen it first hand, and there are hundreds of pictures out there. It really doesn't matter if it falls off or breaks, the car is dead either way.

You can say that they usually only break on start-up, but there are a dozen or more threads on here where the belts have let go on the road.

You have an 83% chance of surviving Russian Roulette, but I'm still going to pull the bullet out of the chamber if given the chance. I wouldn't want the belt to let go doing 80mph on a 4-lane highway in heavy traffic.

Yes indeed, I stand corrected.

I was just posting my own experiences and not a totality of the subject.:grin:

Here is an example of your post:
http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/heres-what-happens-when-your-timing-belt-snaps-and-how-1643804882

 

[Kingdom934]

When timing belts breaks, shreds, tears, chip, blows up, gets stolen, basically once the car is no longer in time because the cams are not moving, the car is going to stop working .

As to how belts wear depends on the condition. Oil soaked belts such as the front seals going out will fail more soon. My oil soaked belt in my Cressida had failed at around 76K since everything on the front end was leaking. The belt shreaded after dropping off a friend and was going up a steep incline. Not racing the engine or anything. Just going up hill at around 35mph when right after clearing the hill, the engine shut off. Not sure if it was the original TB or not. Other belts may fail because they crack or snap ( like above), but I would think that is more of a failure because of age and the heat cycles.

I've known people push way past the recommended time to do the TB. Most times, people are on burrowed time because when the first owner sells the car, the second owner is just trying to get a decent daily driver without doing all the 'recommended' maintenance the first owner didn't want to do (why they sold the car) due to the miles. The only time when someone must do a TB job is if the belt goes, their car is leaking a ton of oil either from the front seals or valve cover (or they can't park at home b/c of that) ,tensioner or WP decides to bite the bullet and is dying or ded.


We, although are the exception :nerd: as we want to repair stuff before your stranded in the middle of traffic on the day of thanksgiving

 

[guapoman2000]

When timing belts breaks, shreds, tears, chip, blows up, gets stolen, basically once the car is no longer in time because the cams are not moving, the car is going to stop working .

As to how belts wear depends on the condition. Oil soaked belts such as the front seals going out will fail more soon. My oil soaked belt in my Cressida had failed at around 76K since everything on the front end was leaking. The belt shreaded after dropping off a friend and was going up a steep incline. Not racing the engine or anything. Just going up hill at around 35mph when right after clearing the hill, the engine shut off. Not sure if it was the original TB or not. Other belts may fail because they crack or snap ( like above), but I would think that is more of a failure because of age and the heat cycles.

I've known people push way past the recommended time to do the TB. Most times, people are on burrowed time because when the first owner sells the car, the second owner is just trying to get a decent daily driver without doing all the 'recommended' maintenance the first owner didn't want to do (why they sold the car) due to the miles. The only time when someone must do a TB job is if the belt goes, their car is leaking a ton of oil either from the front seals or valve cover (or they can't park at home b/c of that) ,tensioner or WP decides to bite the bullet and is dying or ded.


We, although are the exception :nerd: as we want to repair stuff before your stranded in the middle of traffic on the day of thanksgiving

With the miles that my 1992 Camry XLE has (Almost 500,000 miles and owned it since it had 15,828 miles) I have grown used to just driving my Camry until the timing belt slips one or two tooth and NOT worry about it.

Towing for me is nothing more than a Pizza slice and worse $50 cash as I don't venture out too far when I have surpassed that magic amount of mileage and I have known to go past 128,000 miles on one "quality" timing belt without any Oil leaks etc....etc.....:laugh:

To each their own but, my main point was that no one needs to worry about the Engine getting damaged (5S-FE) as it is a non-interfering Engine, PERIOD.:grin: