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91' Celica GTS
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208 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I just finished sandblasting, priming and painting a lovely set of stock alloy rims I pulled off a 2002 GTS. Getting white paint for them proved to be a little bit of a challenge, as apparently, most places do not carry more then one can of DupliColor white at a time. IF they carry it at all.

Now all I need is a nice set of cross drilled rotors so they don't feel so lonely. If anyone can point me toward a decent set of 4 cross-drilled, slotted brake rotors, I'd be much appreciative. Most of my experience in brake rotors are for MTB, and I doubt Shimano is making anything I need...

 

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VVT-1MZ + ES5spd
Toyota Corolla
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2,017 Posts
brembo might have it.
 

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93 Celica GT Coupe
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350 Posts
WOW.....

GREAT job on the wheels man, those look amazing. :D

Now..... stay AWAY from crossdrilled rotors. Slotted are ok, drilled are a no-no.

Just get some Brembo blanks and call it good.

You have 4 wheel disc?
 

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93 Celica GT Coupe
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350 Posts
KVR got cross drill rotors. Used them on Corolla and Celica, no problem no crack.
Have you put a UV dye on them yet? Not trying to start a fight, just curious right now.
 

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1990 Celica GTS
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2,714 Posts
I know all the reasons not to use crossdrill. They don't crack just by using them. They crack due to sudden temp change. Like hot brake and cold water. Talk to people who autocross all the time. A few had posted on the argument before. They'll take solid rotor not because of less warp or crack but for higher heat capacity. They've also said there were no more cracking crossdrill rotor then other.

I don't think you need UV dye to see the cracks. Brake dust will stuck in the crack to make them look black.

Properly break in new pad and rotor will prevent cracking due to heat stress.

Also rotor "warp" is a myth. Its either improper installation or overheated pad putting melted materail on the rotor causing different thickness.
 

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93 Celica GT Coupe
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350 Posts
I know all the reasons not to use crossdrill. They don't crack just by using them. They crack due to sudden temp change. Like hot brake and cold water. Talk to people who autocross all the time. A few had posted on the argument before. They'll take solid rotor not because of less warp or crack but for higher heat capacity. They've also said there were no more cracking crossdrill rotor then other.

I don't think you need UV dye to see the cracks. Brake dust will stuck in the crack to make them look black.

Properly break in new pad and rotor will prevent cracking due to heat stress.

Also rotor "warp" is a myth. Its either improper installation or overheated pad putting melted materail on the rotor causing different thickness.
I do autocross my car..... in STX class. General consensus there, and on Grassroots Motorsports Magazine forums (official SCCA magazine) is that the drilled rotors are fine for autocross, but for longer runs, a big no no. Autocross guys run them for the weight advantage, as silly as that sounds. For a dual purpose car like mine, i'm not going to take the chance. It sees streets, and it sees track days, and it sees the Tail of the Dragon at least once a year.

The Tail of the Dragon has proven to me that rotor warp DOES exist and is not a myth, as well. But for 95% of rotor "warp" you are correct, it's uneven pad distribution on the rotor.

Humor me and put some UV dye on a brand new drilled rotor sometime, you might be interested as to what you see. Cracked doesn't always mean something big enough to hold brake dust.
 

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93 Celica GT Coupe
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350 Posts
Sounds like you've tried that already :cool:
Hahah, yeahhhh.... scared the piss out of me, to be honest. I ran them for years in my Hondur days, even subjecting them to 140+mph hard stops. I can't believe i didn't frag one.

I live with my brembo blanks at this point.

Brembo blanks, custom earl's stainless braided lines, EBC Yellows, and some DOT5 fluid is enough to keep my 2400lb car in check. :D
 
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