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'03 Camry XLE
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Discussion Starter #1
A check engine light code showed Bank one sensor one on my 3.0 liter 6 cylinder engine. It is against the fire wall so I had it done, but they could not get rid of the check engine light. I disconnected both battery cables as is a common practice, but also did the following...I touched both cables together for about thirty seconds and then reattached them to the battery. I turned the key to ON position, turned on the AC, and then started the car. The car ran smoothly right away AND the light stayed off with an added bonus...the pulsing in the acceleration when climbing a hill or even stepping on the gas from stop that I have reported earlier was gone as well. Apparently these sensors cause problems well before any code shows up (that pulsing had been going on for over a year, but without a code I heard everything from "I don't feel anything" to "it's a transmission problem")). That's just something to keep in mind when your car just doesn't seem to be "acting" right but there is no check engine light on when you might expect one.
 

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'03 Camry XLE
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133 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
So did they attempt to clear the DTC or were they too lazy to do it?
He did clear it, but it came back on. He made another attempt with no luck. This is just a garage mechanic buddy of mine who does brakes, tie rods, ball joints and the like. He has equipment, tools, and a lift at work but his electronic skills are limited. So if plan A doesn't work, he really has no plan B other than to tell me its just out range of what he can handle, which I can appreciate. One garage told me I needed a new rack and pinion for over a grand...he replaced the broken boot and inner tie rod along with that sensor for $100 plus parts...handy to have around.
 

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AF sensor b1s1 is the one near firewall and b2s1 is the one near radiator, go with Denso because is a critical and parts sensitive. You need the one near firewall Denso Upstream Rear
 

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'03 Camry XLE
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133 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
AF sensor b1s1 is the one near firewall and b2s1 is the one near radiator, go with Denso because is a critical and parts sensitive. You need the one near firewall Denso Upstream Rear
That is correct. And that is also why I had someone do it for me, it is the toughest of the sensors to reach, especially without a lift. But it's done and the lights remain off. The Denso that he pulled out lasted 7 years...but for $149.00 it had better.
 
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