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'03 Camry XLE
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Discussion Starter #1
My '03 Camry 6 cylinder has a broken front mount. My mechanic orders the part but it's different from what's on my vehicle. Mine has a vacuum line that leads to some sort of switch. Turns out that Toyota made this change but nobody carries my part in town, only online like through Rock Auto. It's also twice the price. Mechanic says that in in 30 years of wrenching he has never seen anything like it. Why is it this way, and can a standard mount be used and say just cap off the vacuum line?
 

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1995 T100 2WD
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i can't vouch for the Toyota unit that has the vacuum stabilization but if it works as well as the units on the Honda's you'll miss it. Very obvious at idle. Friend decided not to buy the vacuum mount and went with a traditional one, IN his Honda the vibration was bad enough he feared it would cause other problems so he bit the bullet and ordered the same type that the car came with. Like I said, thats on another Japanese car.
 

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'03 Camry XLE
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78 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
i can't vouch for the Toyota unit that has the vacuum stabilization but if it works as well as the units on the Honda's you'll miss it. Very obvious at idle. Friend decided not to buy the vacuum mount and went with a traditional one, IN his Honda the vibration was bad enough he feared it would cause other problems so he bit the bullet and ordered the same type that the car came with. Like I said, thats on another Japanese car.
Thanks for helping me from kicking myself later for trying to save a buck. It was just a passing thought, and I'm past it and going with original...and thankful that it's not a trans problem.
 

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'03 Camry XLE
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Discussion Starter #5
Your mechanic must not work on many Japanese vehicles. Honda has been using this system for years. My 1998 Accord V6 had a similar system.
The problem was that the change in mounts was made later in the model year from what my mechanic was told. Not a single parts dealer that I went to had any knowledge of the change and therefore no part existed in their database. I went to Toyota, paid top dollar, and the part was there the next morning. I never saw a situation like this either, that being where nobody seemed to know what we were talking about when when we describe a vacuum hose attached to the front mount. One parts guy said "I heard about something like that." Now what a '96 Honda has to do with an '03 Camry, I'm not sure. But when you ask for a front mount for a certain vehicle and they give you the only part on their screen and it turns out to not be a match, one can hardly point the finger at the mechanic.
 

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1995 T100 2WD
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Toyota should have known. The reference to Hondas we made were that those type of engine mounts have been around for awhile. As for mechanics that take care of a lot of makes and models, that's a lot of memory overload to ask of anyone :)
 

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'03 Camry XLE
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Discussion Starter #7
Toyota should have known. The reference to Hondas we made were that those type of engine mounts have been around for awhile. As for mechanics that take care of a lot of makes and models, that's a lot of memory overload to ask of anyone :)
I went to Toyota for the proper mount and gave them my VIN. It is now installed but as happens with this vehicle when the battery is disconnected, the computer has to relearn everything. Difficult to start, keeps dying out, extremely rough engine idling are the symptoms that I am experiencing now at the mechanics shop. I had put a new battery in before so I knew what was going on. I changed a battery and the car seemed like it was gonna blow up? I didn't understand what I could have done wrong but that is just how the car (this car, anyway), reacts after hooking up the battery. The first time it slowly got better to a point that I felt safe taking it to the highway and it ran smooth afterwards. The same thing worked this time, and the new mount made all the difference...no more rough shifting.
 

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My 93' MR2 has a hissy fit when ever I change out a battery or it's disconnected for maintenance. Then like yours it eventually corrects itself !
 

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'03 Camry XLE
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Discussion Starter #9
I went to Toyota for the proper mount and gave them my VIN. It is now installed but as happens with this vehicle when the battery is disconnected, the computer has to relearn everything. Difficult to start, keeps dying out, extremely rough engine idling are the symptoms that I am experiencing now at the mechanics shop. I had put a new battery in before so I knew what was going on. I changed a battery and the car seemed like it was gonna blow up? I didn't understand what I could have done wrong but that is just how the car (this car, anyway), reacts after hooking up the battery. The first time it slowly got better to a point that I felt safe taking it to the highway and it ran smooth afterwards. The same thing worked this time, and the new mount made all the difference...no more rough shifting.
I was just told of a proper sequence to starting my Camry after a battery has been disconnected...next time. There are youtube videos on the subject. Thanks for the posts.
 

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'03 Camry XLE
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Discussion Starter #10
My 93' MR2 has a hissy fit when ever I change out a battery or it's disconnected for maintenance. Then like yours it eventually corrects itself !
My 93' MR2 has a hissy fit when ever I change out a battery or it's disconnected for maintenance. Then like yours it eventually corrects itself !
I was just told of a proper sequence to starting my Camry after a battery has been disconnected...next time. There are youtube videos on the subject. Thanks for the posts.
 

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if your having issues starting after the battery was disconnected, usually means the ECU was compensating for issues (i.e vacuum leaks) from my experience. I had an issue with an ES300 2002. It had missing vacuum lines (lines going to the front mount solenoid), huge cracked on the intake hose after the airbox and idle ran low...but it ran. After disconnecting the battery, the car wouldn't idle at all and just die. You would have to give it gas once it start a bit and leave it for a few seconds before throwing it into drive. It would idle (barely) and die in gear if you kept it too long standing and not moving until you drove around a bit and it then went back to the low idle but running mode.

I fixed the vacuum lines (Missing a few, broken T tap, cracked lines) and did cleaning on the TB (SUPER dirty), MAF cleaning and spark plugs/valve cover. After a re connection of the car battery this time around, car started up faster and idled a tiny bit higher and drop down normal quickly. No issue after that. It was a night a day difference.
 
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