Toyota Nation Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
03 with 178K. original ECM with the trans issue present. besides the trans issue, has ran great till 9/12/19. I have owned it bout a year now.

Morning drive to work, about 37 miles. Pull onto highway engine cuts out, immediately comes back and is followed immediately by another cut out but not as bad. I thought, that is weird, never had that happen before. But all was well it seemed. Engine picks back up and i make my 30 mile drive to my exit.
After exit, i attempt to accelerate onto street and the car falls on its face, I floor it, get a down shift, and everything is running smooth again until I hit the stop sign. From this dead stop, I had no power. I would push the pedal and the engine would try to rev but it could not. I would get spurts of power which allowed me to get up to drive speed but then the lose of power again. I could feather the throttle and pick up speed at times. If I tried to accelerate to hard, engine would lug and RPM drop to below idle, then kick back up before the car died. The engine never died on me though and the engine light was flashing. At points there would be this weird reverb thing happening from the car, like the reverb you get when driving with only one window down at higher speeds,best way I can describe it.
End of day, have trailer coming to get me but want to attempt to drive to a closer pick up point. Car starts and runs as normal, I drive about 4 miles and it dies with no warning. I start it back up with no issues, car idles fine. I drive 2-3 miles car performs as normal. Then I get the reverb thing again, pull over, allow engine to idle and then drive away with normal operation. Mile or so later i get the lose of power, engine dies at drive speed. I kick in neutral restart with no issue, kick back in drive and drive on as normal. This happens over and over again and is currently still the case. Drive/idle fine, stalls drive/idle, may or may not die and repeat. End of day no engine light and not had one since.

What I have done so far...None of these solved or changed my problem at all.

read codes...Parts store machine showed none. Mechanics machine showed none.
Changed fuel pump & filter. (Think original was still in it)
cleaned MAF (Very dirty)
Cleaned throttle body
Cleaned ICV.
changed plugs. (think these were original too)
broke the Cat loose (sounds better anyways)
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,490 Posts
Welcome to the forums! :)

Probably one of the best things you can do is to git an OBDII scanner so you can read what the sensors are reporting. I picked up a BAFX Products bluetooth dongle off of Amazon fer about $25 shipped and I pair it with my Android phone and an app called OBD Fusion I got fer $5 off of Google Play. ;)

Do you know if the vehicle has been in an accident before? Any aftermarket mods installed? How good are yer battery connections? How good are yer grounds? ;)

I'm curious what yer throttle position sensor (TPS) is reporting and if it's accurate. ;)

Anytime the Check Engine light is flashing, it's a good indication that you have a misfire and you should not drive it in this condition. You can easily damage the converter and engine with the misfires. I would've guessed any misfires would've set a hard code as well. ;)

Do you know if you had any pending codes or did the techs only look fer the hard set codes? ;)

How good is the gas you last filled up with? ;)

When you replaced the plugs, what condition were they in? Got any piccies of the business ends? ;)

Since yer vehicle is drive by wire, there's a possibility that either the pedal or actuator may be malfunctioning and should be tested. I would figure if they were failing that it would set a code as well. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
First, since original post. Tested coils, good shape. Used starting fluid when engine cut out, did not seem to affect idol to me.

Been on 3 diff diagnoses machines, small bosch at part store, larger system not sure of name, and then a larger laptop type system. Sorry, best i can do to discribe. First 2 no codes, 3rd, plug and run engine, cuts out, laptop shows a * sign then says no codes, says electrical to me. Car performance does not change when starting fluid is applied when engine cutting out.
Says Electrical to me.

no accidents reported

No typical mods visible, newer exhaust, 2nd cat back

TPS, checks out good

Battery connections good

Grounds???????? Not sure, on the list

Check engine light on for the hard shift, ecm issue, known problem for rav03. Light flashed when i first had this happen. Since then, no light flash or otherwise, no codes engine off or on.

Bad gas was first thought, but ruled tht out now and changed fuel pump/filter. Had gteat access to tank, its clean.

Everthing on this car has been original, plugs looked like needle points. Kinda funny it ran at all. Hahaha

Currently, car idols and runs fine, then has moments it looses, well, everything. Fuel, spark, everything. It may die at idol, it may not. With AC on problems are accelerated. I mean, example only, no hard numbers here.no ac, stalls every 10 min. ac on, stalls say like 5-7 min and not in conjuction with compressor activity. Just an observation.

I am not a mechanic, imma weekend warrior but mechanical. Usually have been able to fix problems through deduction. I posted here for help to my questions. I am currently daily driving my 09 pontiac G8 GXP. Its killing me to put the miles on this car. Please read and help me get the rav green machine back in the road and get the G8 back in the garage where she belogs. Haha
Thank you.

Sorry if this is hard to read, from my phone.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,490 Posts
With the ODBII bluetooth dongle and the ODB Fusion app, you should be able to run it and capture the data when it happens aka freeze frame. You'll be able to see if any of the data streams are indicating an issue with one or more of the sensors when the issue happens. If nothing appears out of the ordinary, you'll have to start performing a more detailed level of diagnostics by running an oscilloscope on the various modules or wiring. ;)


How was the TPS measured to determine it wasn't the issue? Is yer throttle body drive by wire or is it manually cable controlled to the gas pedal? ;)

I wonder if you might have an issue from the battery to the fuse box? Inspection of the cable from the battery to the engine bay fuse box would be key. Testing of the resistance values as well as any voltage drops would be prudent as well. With the ODBII dongle and app, I would graph the power at the ECM and see if the freeze frame detects a voltage drop that's low enough to cause issues at that time or if it loses power completely. If you have a power loss or drop, it could very well erase the ECM of any codes. The app should be able to tell you when the ECM was last erased or reset. If it was very recent, it would be an indication of power loss to the ECM. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
TPS is cable. Not really sure how the mechanic tested it. Anyways, i have sent it to a shop. Guy says first will start with all the other sensors around the engine, cam position sensor and such. If tht dont fix then isolate the connections to ECM and see which one is killing the engine, something like that he said anyways. Guess we will see. I may have to get one of these OBDII anyways.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,490 Posts
I know you don't have yer vehicle with you as the shop has it. I'm kinda curious if the issue still lies between the battery and the fuse box or not. ;)

Here's a previous post that the dealership was trying to milk a customer fer $900 (back in 2009) fer a replacement cable/harness. He was able to resolve the issue by replacing a few parts fer less than $200. It's possible that the previous owner may have fiddled with the fusible link since it would be easier to stick some wires in there instead of using the correct part. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thank you for the help BZP, i appreciate your effort. I am going to discuss this with guys working on the car. Update this weekend hopefully.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,490 Posts
Apparently, if one connects jumper battery cables (fer a jump start) with the wrong polarity, it will most likely blow the fusible links. It also seems that it's been suggested that one can "repair" the fusible links by soldering/jumping the burnt links. The part number the fusible link should be 82620-42040 and costs about $43 to $50 depending on the discounted source. ;)


Just out of curiosity, did you notice if the time and radio stations were still correct when the issues cropped up? If they weren't, it would suggest that the issue might lay within the power source to the main fuse box. ;)
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top