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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all, i have a 05 echo sedan automatic, the car will shift through all 4 gears but wont go into low gear - the rpms stay high - the only error code i have says the 02 sensor after the cat has high voltage and a very small leak in the exhaust and the check engine light has came on a few times only to turn off - showing the codes i mentioned above , my od switch still shows on the dash when off and the car goes into higher rpm when off - but when on is still too high an rpm for od to be functioning properly - could this be due to a clogged vvt valve filter (i thought this would cause an error code though and i dont know if its clogged either) just an idea, any and all help would be greatly appreciated, i love my toyota and i want to keep it for a while like my tercel 400+ kms on the tercel before selling and the buyer was and still is happy last time we talked

as a update - the o/d does engage but the cars rpm stay high and dont drop like they should
 

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Hmmm actually when the light is OFF (on the dash) then O/D is ON via the switch, if you see the OD light ON (yellow) when pushing the switch means OD is OFF.

Also.... The Blue Cold light has to be off for the car to engage in OD.

Maybe the temp gauge is not reading correctly? If you have a scanner you could read the temperature code to see if it's reaching the correct temps if not you could try replacing the thermostat since, the computer won't put the car into OD if it's too cold. But one would think if you see the blue light go ON and OFF than you should be good to go.

Problem with idiot lights and only a gas gauge.

Check the transmission fluids ... Might be low? Maybe time to change out the tranny fluid?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was aware of the o/d light and the blue cold light as well
i checked the tranny fluid it still looks clean and full too, all this started 2 days after taking my car to a m.idas in moncton nb canada, on mountain rd for new tires and an alignment and and a safety inspection and it all went downhill since, my engine oil was really dirty when i changed it after the alignment - about a month after the m.idas experience and that was the first time it ever had dirty oil ever, on top of that the oil that was dirty was only in there for maybe 2 months maybe 1500 to 2500 kms max, an its been clean ever since as i have been monitoring that to be sure

i wonder if the vvt valve that the oil travels through is gunked up and if so - would the engine act this way without a error code or check engine light being on -

i am considering a tranny flush as well but i have never had to do that on any car i ever had before - my car has 166000 kms on it and i drive like an old lady and always use supreme gas because i get more kms out of $20 supreme than $20 regular - i always use the trip reset every time i gas up to monitor its fuel efficiency and since this its down about 80kms for every $20 gas i put in. maybe alot of this info is redundant but i figure any and all info might help - thanks for bearing with me!
 

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Well, Probably the next step I would take would be start checking the sensors (AT Temp Sensor) (Engine Temp Sensor) ... If those check out ok, you could test the speed sensor and OD Solenoid. If that checks out ok, it could be the computer... If that checks out ok then it might just be a bad OD Gear or a shift band needs to be tightened or something broke in the trans itself.

Without the proper scanner to see the temps and ranges I think 177 degrees needed before the car will shift into OD. You could be checking lot's of parts for no reason or you could just take your car into a shop and have it looked at to see what the problem might be.

I'd hate to tell you to replace the Thermostat and temp gauge just to find out it was the solenoid not working or the ECM not sending out the signal to fire because of a bad wire.

Tho, if it were me, I'd wait till the car is really good and warm... or wait for a nice sunny day warm the car up and if it shifts ... most likely your problem is due to temp sensor or the t-stat. I would start with the easy problems first. Check the wiring check the actual temp's on what the computer sees. If everything looked ok I'd take it to the shop to have the trans checked out.

If you gotta open up the trans, at that point flush the entire system out before they put it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
heres the update so far - the car shifts through all gears - o/d does engage - the way i know this is because when i turn o/d off the rpms go even higher - but the rpms are still way too high for normal operation and i fear it could blow the engine at highway speeds - i have had the tranny flushed /filter changed / seal kit as well - there was no change afterwards. there hasnt been a check engine light for about 4 weeks - and when it was there it as for the o2 after the cat - brought it to a mechanic and he cant find whats causing the problem - my question is (hypothetically speaking) if the vvt valve that controls the valve timing with the lobes on the cam has a clogged filter would this make the car think it needed to keep the rpms up due to the resistance from being clogged - and if so would the car "think" its operating normally - cause as i stated before there is no other error code showing on the machine - thanks in advance for reading this whether or not you can help! Steve
 

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Hmmm, how is your gas mileage? My car shifts into OD about 41 or just above 40MPH on my speedo can you feel your car shift into OD about that speed? If I get down to 38MPH it will down shift. Thats on an even grade tho.

When was the Air Filter changed out? Have you tried cleaning the MAF sensor? Have a look and clean it good... If you have a dirty MAF it can give the computer funky #'s and overcompensate.

It's also a good idea to inspect the airbox, and air hose that goes to the throttle body make sure no holes and tight seal. . A good cleaning of that is recommended as well.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My car was getting 265-280kms to $20 gas (supreme) since my midas visit and i mean immediately after i was only getting 185km at most for the same $20 gas, my air filter has been changed twice since the visit most recently last week (still no difference) even changed the spark plugs (no difference still), what is the maf sensor - is that the mass air flow sensor - and where is it located roughly - as well i wonder if the throttle position sensor could be making this happen (is it an adjustable sensor - i dont even know if that exists - just brainstorming) -- as far as my cars performance my best explanation is this - when i press the gas the car goes from gears 1 to 3(i dont think it even goes into fourth at the moment just stays in 3rd revved up) but the rpms stay high no matter what speed im going from 20 - 80km/h i dont go faster than that currently- its seems to stay in passing gear mode and wont let up on the rpms and downshift to the appropriate gear but there has never been any noises - hard shifts - slipping ever.
i had the tranny flushed -filter changed and new seals too - still no difference!
i hope its a sensor issue - i just have to find the sensor/s that arent working i guess - but the problem is there is no errror code to guide me even the o2 check engine light issue has stopped last time was maybe 3 weeks to a month ago!
Hey Ericlp you coming to eastern canada any time soon lol, kidding!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
found what and where maf sensor is!

well i know where the maf is so tomorrow i will clean it if need be! and go from there!
 

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I wonder how you know the rpms are staying high. If the transmission is shifting through all the gears and the rpms are actually still high then that would mean the transmission is slipping. I ask, as some people do mistake loud engine noise for high rpms, there is a difference. However, if you are experienced or you are looking at at tach and know the rpms are high I think you have a serious problem with the transmission.
 

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H-LP RH / H-LP LO RH That fuse is for right (second fuse) third one doesn is for the Left side...

Make sure you headlights are working... If they are then the fuse is working fine.

Man, I wish I could see your car in person. Unless you want to pay for a ticket from hawaii! hahaha J/K!

I am running out of options for you to check ... Might have to bite to bullet and take it to someone and do a diagnostic check for the reason of High RPM. :( Might be something wrong with your computer. Last thing you could do is disconnect the battery for half an hour and see if that resets the computer. But I'm just grasping at straws here. Hopefully someone else can chime in with other options.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
the latest update - throttle position sensor

so i took the car to a transmission place and we hooked the car up and drove it - tranny is fine - shifting fine no issues - however the TPS position was at 11 when idling which he thought was high and should get checked out and recalibrated - there is also a wheel bearing that is wearing out but its not very loud - so now im looking at gettting the tps calibrated -- upon reading about miscalibrated tps sensors i found out that it can cause what i feel has been happening to my car!
 

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I wonder how you know the rpms are staying high. If the transmission is shifting through all the gears and the rpms are actually still high then that would mean the transmission is slipping. I ask, as some people do mistake loud engine noise for high rpms, there is a difference. However, if you are experienced or you are looking at at tach and know the rpms are high I think you have a serious problem with the transmission.
---- i had it checked diagnostically at a transmission shop where we drove the car hooked up and the tranny is fine but revealed a high tps setting
 
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