05 Highlander Unable to control Locks or Windows from Master Control Panel.
Hey everyone. Newly registered here, but definitely not my first time to these forums! I own a 2012 Camry and an 2005 Highlander.
The highlander has been great with the exception of repeated front door lock actuators breaking, and now this problem that I'm posting about.
My wife took the Highlander in to get a full set of tires replaced, and when she picked it up, she noticed several problems that i'll explain in detail. I first want to point out that we have already addressed the issue with the shop that did the work, and have pretty much decided that this is very likely entirely coincidental, and that nothing they were working on had anything to do with the electrical symptoms we are now experiencing. They might have done some banging which caused the problem, but we would have eventually experienced the same thing had it not happened while the tires were getting changed. I bring this up simply to say that I'm posting here for advice on how to troubleshoot the electrical symptoms, not to have a discussion around who is responsible, which is really just a matter of opinion. Okay, on to the specifics of the problem!
When my wife picked up the vehicle from the shop, she noticed the following symptoms, all of which were not happening before she dropped it off.
1. The key-fob would no longer unlock or lock any of the doors. (we now have to manually lock or unlock the driver's side door manually and then manually lock or unlock the other doors.)
2. We are unable to lock or unlock any of the doors using the lock/unlock toggle switch on the driver's door master control panel.
3. We are unable to control any of the 3 additional windows from the driver's door master control panel. (only the driver's door window works from that door)
4. The windows work on all 4 doors - only when controlled from their own respective button.
I think that about covers it. If I think of something I missed, I'll come back here and update the post.
I've done some searches on the forum and google, but the closest I've found is a toyota sedan door switch problem which triggered the "door ajar" light on the dashboard. That light is still working as expected, so I don't thing that's related to my issue. I haven't had a chance to closely inspect the fuses in the daylight, so that's something I hope to do today. I'll report back on that, but any assistance knowing which fuses to look at, or any troubleshooting steps whatsoever that might help me get this thing resolved would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for reading!
Jon
The highlander has been great with the exception of repeated front door lock actuators breaking, and now this problem that I'm posting about.
My wife took the Highlander in to get a full set of tires replaced, and when she picked it up, she noticed several problems that i'll explain in detail. I first want to point out that we have already addressed the issue with the shop that did the work, and have pretty much decided that this is very likely entirely coincidental, and that nothing they were working on had anything to do with the electrical symptoms we are now experiencing. They might have done some banging which caused the problem, but we would have eventually experienced the same thing had it not happened while the tires were getting changed. I bring this up simply to say that I'm posting here for advice on how to troubleshoot the electrical symptoms, not to have a discussion around who is responsible, which is really just a matter of opinion. Okay, on to the specifics of the problem!
When my wife picked up the vehicle from the shop, she noticed the following symptoms, all of which were not happening before she dropped it off.
1. The key-fob would no longer unlock or lock any of the doors. (we now have to manually lock or unlock the driver's side door manually and then manually lock or unlock the other doors.)
2. We are unable to lock or unlock any of the doors using the lock/unlock toggle switch on the driver's door master control panel.
3. We are unable to control any of the 3 additional windows from the driver's door master control panel. (only the driver's door window works from that door)
4. The windows work on all 4 doors - only when controlled from their own respective button.
I think that about covers it. If I think of something I missed, I'll come back here and update the post.
I've done some searches on the forum and google, but the closest I've found is a toyota sedan door switch problem which triggered the "door ajar" light on the dashboard. That light is still working as expected, so I don't thing that's related to my issue. I haven't had a chance to closely inspect the fuses in the daylight, so that's something I hope to do today. I'll report back on that, but any assistance knowing which fuses to look at, or any troubleshooting steps whatsoever that might help me get this thing resolved would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for reading!
Jon
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
checked the fuses
Yeah, I checked the fuses tonight. Wasn't sure which one exactly, if not the one labeled "D FD" which I took to mean "Driver's side front door", so I just pulled every fuse. All of them looked good to me. Though I can't say I remember ever seeing a "bad" fuse. I figured a burned out fuse would be obvious though.
I also took out the master control switch and brought it inside to take apart. It looked like a brand new board. Absolutely no corrosion or anything. Nothing looked out of place and all the capacitors looked good, so I put it all back. No change so far.
Next steps/ideas?
Thanks!
Yeah, I checked the fuses tonight. Wasn't sure which one exactly, if not the one labeled "D FD" which I took to mean "Driver's side front door", so I just pulled every fuse. All of them looked good to me. Though I can't say I remember ever seeing a "bad" fuse. I figured a burned out fuse would be obvious though.
I also took out the master control switch and brought it inside to take apart. It looked like a brand new board. Absolutely no corrosion or anything. Nothing looked out of place and all the capacitors looked good, so I put it all back. No change so far.
Next steps/ideas?
Thanks!
It's best to check the fuses with a light probe. They sometimes look good when there not. Next step would be to check to see if you have power to assembly. You will need a light probe or a meter to go further, and you will also have to obtain a wire diagram. If your not comfortable with this type of work It may be better to bring it to someone who is. Let me know what you decide.
Thanks Sam,
I'm going to have to consider what you've said. I always love a challenge... I don't own a meter and am happy to buy or borrow one, but I wouldn't know the first thing about knowing how to use it, so depending on what help I can find and how much you're willing to walk me through, this may or may not be the challenge for me.
I'm going to have to consider what you've said. I always love a challenge... I don't own a meter and am happy to buy or borrow one, but I wouldn't know the first thing about knowing how to use it, so depending on what help I can find and how much you're willing to walk me through, this may or may not be the challenge for me.
Update
Hey Sam, so I ended up swapping out the fuses with another similar fuse and that did nothing to help.
I also bought another master door switch and that didn't help either.
(side note - I replaced the driver's door actuator as it has previously stopped working before this issue started)
The problem still persists, however I now own a multi-meter. I just found the wiring diagram attached...
Got it from this website.
I'm not sure what "power to assembly" means, but If you can explain it, I can do it!
Sorry for the long delay in responding - we just moved houses and with the holidays etc.. It's bee pretty busy around here. Needless to say, my wife would love for me to get this working for her again!
Thanks everyone for your help!
Hey Sam, so I ended up swapping out the fuses with another similar fuse and that did nothing to help.
I also bought another master door switch and that didn't help either.
(side note - I replaced the driver's door actuator as it has previously stopped working before this issue started)
The problem still persists, however I now own a multi-meter. I just found the wiring diagram attached...
Got it from this website.
I'm not sure what "power to assembly" means, but If you can explain it, I can do it!
Sorry for the long delay in responding - we just moved houses and with the holidays etc.. It's bee pretty busy around here. Needless to say, my wife would love for me to get this working for her again!
Thanks everyone for your help!
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