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In regards to post #15 above there will be a timing mark on the lower pulley (or harmonic balancer) that lines up with an indicator when you are at TDC on the #1 cylinder. Then you can just rotate the pulley 180 degrees for the next cylinder in the firing order and repeat for the other two firings.


Jason
 

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The corolla lives!!! Finally got everything hooked back up yesterday. It started right up. Then I smelled gas. I shut it down and one fuel rail was leaking terribly. I had pinched one of the injector o-rings when I put it in the fuel rail. Luckily I had those other 4 injectors so I stole the oring of one and carefully put it in with a little gasoline lubrication. I let it run for awhile and come up to temperature. The idle fluctuations were gone. I'll keep my eye on it.

The check engine light was on with the P0031 code for the O2 sensor. I kept clearing it and checking the wiring but it kept coming right back. I tested the sensor and it was bad. It was open across the B+ and HT pins. It was fine before I did all the work. I think I damaged it when I was beating the captured nuts off the back side of the exhaust flange. I should have gently cut them off instead. The impact must have broken something internal to the sensor.

The last issue I had was an oil leak from the cam chain tensioner. I don't know what I was thinking using the old one again. To fix that I pulled the valve cover again and made sure cylinder 1 was at TDC. I cleaned off metal gasket and put a little RTV on it. I waited a day and started it back up, no leaks.

Now I'm just waiting for my new denzo O2 sensor. I guess I could have driven it open loop but I figured I'd just wait. Once the sensor is in I can drive it a bit to make sure the new diff is all set. I really don't want to pull that engine again.
Any update?
 

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Sounds like similar problem I have /had on a 2ZR in my 09 Vibe. Found bad head gasket between 2 and 3. Very little tracking or pitting so it cleaned up well. New gaskets and it went back to running pretty well, but ------ very cold natured. I will get misfires if I try to accelerate within the first couple of minutes.(new fuel management sensor upstream giving good lambda) If it gets up in RPM it will usually not set CEL and be ok, but sometimes it sets misfire cyl #1 or multiple misfires. Went limp mode a couple of times. Cleared codes and went back to running ok. I bought the car with the engine problems so I don't have a baseline of performance to compare to. Car was getting 25 mpg, then has improved to 27 to 28 mpg last tank. And I have a lash adjuster ticking that wasn't there initially. Car drives well except for first two minutes.
New CPS from Rockauto would barely fire to computer so starting was very hard. Old one reinstalled fixed that. Mass airflow data seemed erratic so, new sensor-good data now. Have replaced coils to see if misfire clears or moves. Replaced injectors with cleaned set to compare. No change. Tried different throttle body to get comparison there. No change. No good way to check fuel pressure but engine seems lean when cold. Coolant temp sensor reading ok on data but suspect poor performance on that one. Really hope head gasket isn't sealing that badly until warm. Any ideas? Per the earlier posts--Don't forget to run Toyota idle relearn. They will have terrible idle characteristics until you do. My sister's Scion was horrible until I did it, then ran perfectly. All it takes is a loss of power to ECU to need it.(such as changing a battery).
 

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Many thanks to the OP for documenting his troubles here! I bought an 09 1.8l with 153,000 miles this winter and have been having some troubles ever since. It has the rough idle that so many complain of, it seemed a bit low on power and mpg, but I have no baseline to compare it to since I just got it, and it has a ping, which almost goes away when you run super. Recently I changed the spark plugs which were original and pretty bad, cleaned the MAF and throttle body which was quite dirty. This helped a little, and then I got a noticeable misfire with the codes po300 for random\multiple misfire, po301, and po302 for cylinders 1 and 2 misfires. First I switched coils around but the problem remained the same, then, thanks to this post I went and got a $34 cylinder leakdown tester and sure enough when I hit cylinder 1 with pressure it comes right out the spark plug hole of cylinder 2...
So I plan on changing the head gasket, but what if I have a "steam cut" between cylinders? I don't want to have to pull and disassemble the engine for machine work on a $2k car, so I plan on getting a flat surface like a piece of heavy glass, steel plate, or even a small granite surface plate if I can find one, and a large piece of sandpaper to "machine" the block. I will be checking for flatness with a straight edge and feeler guage, and plan on sealing the cylinders and coolant ports with some plastic and masking tape to keep abrasives out of my rings and water pump. Before you scoffers scoff, let me tell you that I once brought an aluminum head with a groove worn in it from a bad head gasket to a machinist who brought it home and put it on his belt sander! I was a bit annoyed at the time, but it lasted over 55,000 miles (original blew at 62,000 darn ford 3.8l). I also plan on changing the pcv, cleaning the intake, and perhaps cleaning the injectors and getting them new o rings.
Besides that, is there anything else I should take care of while I have the head off and have access to everything? Should I replace the cam tensioner as OP suggests? or the timing chain guides?
Any help is appreciated, Thanks!
 

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It's Done!

What a pain to change a headgasket on a 2009 1.8l. You think the head is right there so it should be easy, right? Nope, the whole disassembly\cleaning/reassembly took approximately 30 hrs and $250. Others may do better, but I am just a DIYer in his driveway with regular hand tools.
I did end up "machining" the block and head myself because there was some pitting between cylinders 1 & 2 from the blown head gasket. To do this I found a small granite surface plate at work and a piece of 1x8" aluminum stock a bit longer than the engine. I glued some 320 grit sandpaper to the granite plate and wet sanded the aluminum plate with wd 40 until it was perfectly flat, couldn't fit a .004mm feeler guage between the aluminum and bare granite. Next, I glued sandpaper to the aluminum plate. To protect my engine, I sprayed pieces of blue shop paper towels with wd-40, twisted them up to look like ropes, and stuffed them into the water jackets, head bolt holes, and oil return passages, stuffed the cylinders with paper towels and stuck tape all of the way around them. Then I lightly sanded away, stopping often to check the block, clean the sandpaper with soapy water and a hose, followed by more wd-40. In the beginning it was evident that my block was slightly warped, because I had a low spot in the area of the gasket leak that you could see when sanding. Once I was down to good clean aluminum on the block, I checked it all over with a 2' level that I confirmed was straight on my granite plate, and I couldn't slide that .004mm (about .0015") feeler guage under it anywhere (phew!) according to my Haynes manual, which sucks, the warpage limit is .0031". next I put a better finish on the block with some 600 grit sandpaper since I read that MLS head gaskets need a very smooth surface.
Since I was already set up with my granite surface plate and sand paper I decided to resurface my head as well (btw, I left the exhaust manifold on the whole time- I would have had to cut the bolts holding the heat shields to get to the studs!). The head wasn't warped, just pitted.
All that prep, sanding, and cleanup took an additional 12 hrs, but it did save me from removing and disassembling the engine.
The only extras I did whilst things were apart were the water pump and thermostat, which actually come out still attached to the cylinder front cover.
The old girl has been on the road for a couple of days now, idling smooth, not pinging, and getting great mpg! If she ever gives up the ghost because of my do it yourself machine work, I will not hesitate to post back.
P.S: for those who don't know, a granite surface plate is used in machine shops for various reasons, and are certified flat within .0001"
 

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This seems like a common issue with these engines. I have 2009 with 175k miles with head gasket failure between cylinders 3-4. Took the head off today and confirmed this now waiting for all parts to arrive to reassemble the engine hopefully early next week.
 

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This seems like a common issue with these engines. I have 2009 with 175k miles with head gasket failure between cylinders 3-4. Took the head off today and confirmed this now waiting for all parts to arrive to reassemble the engine hopefully early next week.
Hi Empire221

a) Is yours a JTD 1.8lt 2ZR-FE (Japanese Built motor)?

b) In addition to the head gasket problem was your ISC Valve gunked up at all?

Rob
 

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@Empire221 Okay, thanks for the confirmation WRT build location & pix

@74manta It would be good if you could confirm what yours is?

I'm hopeful that it does not affect the JTD Built Cars.

Rob
 

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To better understand the scope of the challenge for the 2zr-fe motors:
=>> If you have the between cylinders leak issue/head problem, can you please provide the start of your VIN/confirm build plant for the Corolla & the motor?

****
North America 1 - 5
1A-10United States
2A-20Canada
3A-3WMexico
3X-37Costa Rica
38-30not assigned
4A-40United States
5A-50United States
South America 8 - 9

TMMMS - Toyota Motor Manufacturing Mississippi, Inc., located in Blue Springs. Vehicle manufacture and assembly – Corolla.
TMMWV - Toyota Motor Manufacturing West Virginia, Inc., is located in Buffalo. Engine manufacture 2GR-FE, 2ZR-FE and 1AR-FE.
TDV - Toyota de Venezuela, C.A, Cumana, Sucre State. This Plant located in the northeast of Venezuela, produces Toyota Corolla,
AHT - South Africa Toyota – Prospecton, Durban – Corolla

NUMMI - 1NXBU
TMCC - 2T1BU

JTD - Kanto Japan
JTD - Takaoka Japan

Thx

Rob
 

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To better understand the scope of the challenge for the 2zr-fe motors:
=>> If you have the between cylinders leak issue/head problem, can you please provide the start of your VIN/confirm build plant for the Corolla & the motor?

****
North America 1 - 5
1A-10United States
2A-20Canada
3A-3WMexico
3X-37Costa Rica
38-30not assigned
4A-40United States
5A-50United States
South America 8 - 9

TMMMS - Toyota Motor Manufacturing Mississippi, Inc., located in Blue Springs. Vehicle manufacture and assembly – Corolla.
TMMWV - Toyota Motor Manufacturing West Virginia, Inc., is located in Buffalo. Engine manufacture 2GR-FE, 2ZR-FE and 1AR-FE.
TDV - Toyota de Venezuela, C.A, Cumana, Sucre State. This Plant located in the northeast of Venezuela, produces Toyota Corolla,
AHT - South Africa Toyota – Prospecton, Durban – Corolla

NUMMI - 1NXBU
TMCC - 2T1BU

JTD - Kanto Japan
JTD - Takaoka Japan

Thx

Rob
2T1BURHE7EC147754



Hope that's what you're looking for?
 

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Hi all another Aussie Rob, with very similar Corolla issues, I have the 1ZZ FE.

So far I have replaced fuel filter(intank) and fuel pressure valve, plugs and coils, Throttle Position Sensor(slightly better) MAF, done head gasket(no breaks or burns) tried an Intake Manifold no difference, have a scan tool coming but so will update when I get it.

From the chat in here looking like O2 sensor maybe....
 

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Hi RobsGT4 my thought is this thread relates to 1.8lt 2ZR-FE, fitted to ZRE142, ZRE152 & ZRE172's

The corolla 1ZZFE stopped in Australia at end of 2006 in the ZZE122R's (Corolla 9th Gen on this forum)

Rob.
 

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The 14 Corolla I posted about has an aftermarket warranty which is severely delaying the repairs on it, also just warming the engine very slightly results in wildly different compression readings than cold. This vehicle's issue is most apparent at cold start with immediate driving so it may not be head gasket or burnt valves but something else weird. The warranty seems to be searching for a way to deny coverage, they've requested all the vehicle service records and keep stalling.

Don't count on aftermarket warranties to actually pay out or cover anything, if they do it's a blessing not an obligation.
 
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