Seems like it has to crank longer than it used to. Once it starts, it runs good. Yesterday, it took about 5 or 6 seconds to turn over. I took it driving, shut it down for a few mins and after that it was no problem. But it has done this a few times now. Spark plugs ( NGK Irridium or some other 100K plug) has 70 K on the set) Air filter gets changed regularly. I use gasoline from reputable vendors. I'm open to suggestions for where to start looking. Throttle body? Fuel pump? Seems to be more of a fuel problem than igntion. Thank, gents.
'09 Getting Harder to Start
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Do you like Techron? I used to be pretty good about putting Berryman's Chem Tool in the fuel tank. Have been lazy. Thanks for answering up. Hot Ajax
Have your battery LOAD tested by a legitimate independent repair shop.
Forget going to Auto Zone or other such places. Go to a real shop and have it LOAD tested.
Batteries today are good for 3-4 years tops. To many electronic functions on-board modern vehicles draining current when engine is off.
Forget going to Auto Zone or other such places. Go to a real shop and have it LOAD tested.
Batteries today are good for 3-4 years tops. To many electronic functions on-board modern vehicles draining current when engine is off.
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Fwiw, our local NAPA claims they do an actual load test. You have to leave the battery there. I can't recall for how long -- at least an hour, possibly longer.
Also fwiw, my OEM battery lasted 7 years, and I'm at ~4 years on the NAPA replacement. :crossfingers:
Also fwiw, my OEM battery lasted 7 years, and I'm at ~4 years on the NAPA replacement. :crossfingers:
Yes, but get the concentrate and use per exact directions. It can be found on sale as BOGO at the major car parts places, and even Wal-Mart. But get the concentrated version as there is a weaker flavor. Since the 1980s it has been one of the only combustion chamber and intake valve cleaners recommended by the high end cars guys as it had Chevron's proprietary PEA and was one of the few chems that actually work. I believe that some others now incorporate PEA.
I just found out from my local Toyota dealer that the last shipment of batteries he got was manufactured by Interstate. See my thread about Interstates.
Mine actually has a Toyota part number on the battery and says manufactured by Johnson controls. But its screwy because the number applies only for the battery put in at the time of manufacture and can not be purchased through Toy as a replacement. Too bad as it is a great battery. The original number crosses to the replacement and a long time Toyota parts insider told me it is simply not as good. Kind of makes sense as car batteries are high on most people's radar list and the OEMs want to get to warranty expiration with as few complaints as possible.
I've had a slew of Toyota TruStart batteries go bad on me. These are the replacement batteries the dealers sell.
The Panasonic batteries that were once common as OEM are seen mostly in Japan mfg. Toyota's.
I queued up online with Panasonic USA some time ago hoping to be able to source one.
Was told they are not available in the U. S.
The Panasonic batteries that were once common as OEM are seen mostly in Japan mfg. Toyota's.
I queued up online with Panasonic USA some time ago hoping to be able to source one.
Was told they are not available in the U. S.
HotRod: Where is the fuel pump on the Taco? In the tank? Thanks. Hot Ajax
Yes, the pump and "filter" is in the tank. If, after testing, that is the culprit, replace it with the external URD pump/filter.
Personally, I'd still question the spark plugs. Remember people had problems with some of the platinum plugs. 70k miles on those might be a cause for the hard starting when they're cold. I notice issues with stock plugs around 30k miles when they're cold (obviously that's at their end of life). Not as much issues with starting, but trouble with igniting the air/fuel mix in the cylinder when cold and driving.
Personally, I'd still question the spark plugs. Remember people had problems with some of the platinum plugs. 70k miles on those might be a cause for the hard starting when they're cold. I notice issues with stock plugs around 30k miles when they're cold (obviously that's at their end of life). Not as much issues with starting, but trouble with igniting the air/fuel mix in the cylinder when cold and driving.
I second looking at the plugs. They are good plugs - I have the same in my truck but the plugs will certainly need to be pulled and re-gapped. I recently re-gapped mine and the gap ranged from .050 to .055; they are supposed to be .043. I didn't have hard starting issues but I did notice the engine running smoother afterwards. I had about 80K on the plugs when I re-gapped. I used 150 grit sandpaper to clean the metal (don't sand the ceramic) and compressed air to clean them.
I replaced the battery with Car Quest Silver. 2 year no quibble warranty. Problem solved. Thanks for the advice. Hot Ajax
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I would just replace them. I don't trust myself to get all the grit out of the insulator.
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