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Credit goes to a CD poster howardc64


Looks like group 24 batteries are a perfect fit. Got one from Pep Boys (Bosch AGM 24) that measured 10" x 6.5" x 8" so identical to the Panasonic. The +- posts are in the exact same location as the Panasonic (group 24F (I guess F=flipped?) has the +- post reversed. Of course you can just turn the battery around but then the post will be further inwards in the compartment)

The group 24 installed perfectly in the Pep Boy's parking lot. The length is probably just a tad longer than the Panasonic and seem to not seat all the way to the bottom but pretty close. Once the L bracket goes on, its very firm and nothing moves.

The Bosch had a venting elbow on it (on the wrong side so I just swapped with the plug on the other side) Some batteries (Bosch AGM, Champion AGM) had them and some didn't. Looks like people just randomly pick them off as they need them.

For the temperature sensor, I used 2 zip ties to secure it against the L bracket. 1 to hold the white rubber sleeve the temp probe goes into. The other to prevent the round temp probe from sliding out of the rubber sleeve. See pics for reference.

Price was great. $195 - 25% instant rebate and another $40 master card rebate card so about $120+ when its all done.

Install pics here https://flic.kr/s/aHsmEco9y7
 

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Credit goes to a CD poster howardc64


Looks like group 24 batteries are a perfect fit. Got one from Pep Boys (Bosch AGM 24) that measured 10" x 6.5" x 8" so identical to the Panasonic. The +- posts are in the exact same location as the Panasonic (group 24F (I guess F=flipped?) has the +- post reversed. Of course you can just turn the battery around but then the post will be further inwards in the compartment)

The group 24 installed perfectly in the Pep Boy's parking lot. The length is probably just a tad longer than the Panasonic and seem to not seat all the way to the bottom but pretty close. Once the L bracket goes on, its very firm and nothing moves.

The Bosch had a venting elbow on it (on the wrong side so I just swapped with the plug on the other side) Some batteries (Bosch AGM, Champion AGM) had them and some didn't. Looks like people just randomly pick them off as they need them.

For the temperature sensor, I used 2 zip ties to secure it against the L bracket. 1 to hold the white rubber sleeve the temp probe goes into. The other to prevent the round temp probe from sliding out of the rubber sleeve. See pics for reference.

Price was great. $195 - 25% instant rebate and another $40 master card rebate card so about $120+ when its all done.
Install pics here https://flic.kr/s/aHsmEco9y7
OK, my 2009 TCH 12v is on the way out. If I check the vehicle signal diagnostic screen in the nav unit I get 11.6 v on ACC, 10.6v when ON, and 13.6-13.7 when running/ready. But that's only if I've driven it very recently. If I let it sit past 5-6 hours, I can't even get to the nav diagnostic check. Every time I flip the headlights on and off to bring up diagnostic menu. The whole system just reboots. However, the car seems to start to ready just fine for now.



Unfortunately for me, I don't have any Pep Boys around me. Anyhow, today I was at Walmart getting 2 new front tires put on and decided to see what they had in stock. I found that they carry their EverStart Brand AGM batteries with a 5 year warranty for $150. Does anyone around here have any experience with this brand? Do any of you guys think that this would be sufficient to replace the OEM battery? Also, it looked like it had vents on both sides. Or at least I'll assume that's what those holes on each side by the handles are. It looked like they had a little pin way down in the hole like a Schrader valve for a tire. I'll post some pics that I took of a Group 65 that that I saw on the shelf. Checking online they have some in Group 24F HERE. I just don't know what values are sufficient for the TCH as far as cold cranking amps, reserve capacity, and amp hours. And help and info is appreciated.
 

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More than sufficient. Have at it. 12V you have does ZERO cranking. So this battery will last you years.

Thanks for the quick reply ukrkoz. The pics I posted were from a group 65, which I assume is a larger battery. So the sticker info might not be accurate for the group 24. From everything I've read, I know the cold cranking amps don't matter that much. However, what reserve capacity and amp hours would be sufficient? Before I buy it I want to make sure that it's the correct capacity.



Also, I know that the vent holes aren't all that important either, but do those look like they actually are vent holes? The group 24 might not even have them. But if it does, it might be another decent alternative for future forum people looking for TCH 12v alternatives.
 

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Crank IS IRRELEVANT. This battery is NOT used for starting. So you should not be concerned with any cranking spec.
That battery is used aS POWER STORAGE FOR COMPUTERS, SOME OTHER ELECTRONICS. tHUS, POWER DEMAND IS RATHER VERY LOW AND YOU WILL BE FINE WITH THOSE SPECS.
Ooops, sorry, forgot caps were on. Or, finger hit Caps again.
I can't really tell from pictures if those are vent holes or not but, that being AGM, it will produce little to none hydrogene. Add to this it being in the trunk and trunk is not sealed tight, so little hydrogen or other gasses produced during normal function, will simply dissipate into the air.

Make sure to GENTLY transfer temperature sensor from your original battery to the new one and then tape it in place or else somehow secure it. It peals off the battery with minor effort.
 

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Glad I decided to change the battery this afternoon. It was kind of temperamental to start this morning. Had to push the start button 4 times to get it to the "READY" mode. A few of the Christmas Tree lights on the dash flickered and Check VSC warning flashed a couple times. It was fine once I put it in gear and drove off though. I'll assume that's because once I shifted into gear the traction battery took over responsibility of powering the whole vehicle.


Anyhow, I got the Everstart Platinum AGM group 24F. One thing to note is that the terminals are reversed, so I had to flip the battery around. As far as size goes, the battery is slightly longer and taller than the OEM Panasonic battery. So much so that it doesn't sit in the tray flat and sits at a slight angle because one side is riding on the lip of the tray. Also, since the battery is a little bigger AND it's riding on that lip of the tray, the "L" bracket that holds that battery down didn't go down far enough for the bolt to reach the threads. Therefore, I had to stop at Home Depot and find a longer screw to secure the battery, only $1 though. And in case anyone is wondering, the bolt size and thread is metric M6 X 1.0, I think the one I got is about twice as long. Third picture below shows the older short bolt and the new longer bolt and package with UPC code.


As you can see from the pictures the vent tube and thermal sensor aren't attached to the battery. The Everstart has what looks like vents on each side of the battery. However, the coupler for the Panasonic is too big to fit into the hole of the Everstart. I have read that other brand AGM batteries with vents have smaller couplers. I may look for one, I may not. Doesn't really seem to matter too much from what I've read.



As for the thermal sensor. I was going to zip tie it to the bottom of the "L" bracket. But since the bracket was already tight because the battery was bigger and sitting higher, I didn't want to risk breaking the sensor from the force of the bracket against the battery. I just plugged it in and left it dangling in there. It seems that as long as it's plugged in, it won't throw any warning lights or messages. I may find a way to attach it to the battery, I may not. Again, it doesn't seem to matter much.


Then I unhooked the jumper cables from the positive jump terminal on the TCH and then the donor car. Hopped in and hit the button. Radio station presets and phone book info was all still there. I was surprised that I did get a master caution light and "Check Hybrid System" message. Not sure why, since I had back up power and all the other memory and presets held. No big deal though, 3 cycles of the start button cleared the message and master light.


After install, the new battery was reading the same as the old battery on the diagnostic signal check screen @ 11.8v. However, the sticker on the battery was 10/18, so I'll assume that it was a little discharged from sitting on the Walmart shelf. It was up to 12v on diagnostic screen after a 20-25 minute drive home though. I'll let it sit all weekend and see what the voltage is Monday morning. The car sat all last weekend and the old battery struggled last Monday morning.


I'll monitor it over the next few days/weeks and update here if there are any issues. Would any of you guys worry about mounting that thermal sensor? Does it really matter?
 

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