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Toyota doesn't make transmission fluid (or any other fluid)...it's made for them by one of the tranny-fluid companies. I've never heard of any bad things about the WS (World Standard) fluid. Could you show me. I found ONE link and it was highly questionable.


The WS fluid Toyota sells is a very high quality - full synthetic fluid. It is expensive. The compatible fluids are just as expensive.


My 05 4runner had nothing but WS fluid. Sold truck with a little over 300k miles. No tranny issues. Wifes Lexus also - only WS fluid. Now has just under 200k miles and no transmission issues. This tranny place that changes my tranny fluid and almost all the local dealerships send their vehicles to for tranny work, only uses WS fluid for the Toyotas/Lexus vehicles. All others they use compatible fluids.


Probably won't have any problems using any other compatible fluid. But I really doubt Toyota's WS fluid is junk.
Great DIY video. Not to highjack your thread....I just had to reply to the above post.

Toyota WS is not Synthetic ATF. The bottle nor the MSDS indicates the fluid is synthetic.

If you want a compatible synthetic fluid that meets or exceeds the WS specifications buy some Valvoline Max Life ATF. It is 100% synthetic and has been in all my vehicles for years. Not one vehicle has had a transmission issue. My 05 Honda Accord had 150,000 miles with MaxLife ATF from 20,000 miles. My 2015 Highlander also has been using it from 15000 miles. My 2011 Tundra uses Maxlife ATF as well....none of them having any transmission issues. It's worked so well for me my younger brother changed his 2016 Sequioa and Tundra transmission fluid from WS to Maxlife ATF.
 

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I’m glad somebody has chimed in that has moved on from Toyota WS. I am not saying it is bad but I do think there is better out there. I am fortunate enough to get LE at 10/qt so I will use that and feel confident that after 100k Miles it will still be near brand new. Whereas with WS I would feel like 50k is pushing it
 

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Toyota WS has had a bit of bad press in the past but most importantly I live in a part of the country that has -30 wind chills and 110 heat indexes, so I would feel more comfortable with a higher quality product. I also have access to both of the previously mentioned products at prices that are not substantially higher than with Toyota WS (Total price difference for 7q under $30)

EDIT: forgot to mention I would like a synthetic ATF and WS is not synthetic
If you are saying Nebraska has fairly extreme temperature ranges, I appreciate that, but I hope you realize that wind chill and heat indexes only deal with the effect of the weather on human skin, not machinery or other inanimate objects. I.E., if you have antifreeze in your cooling system that is good to -25F and the actual temp is -15F, but the wind chill is -40 you are not going to freeze your coolant. But then, I'm sure you knew that already.
 

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My 05 Honda Accord had 150,000 miles with MaxLife ATF from 20,000 miles. My 2015 Highlander also has been using it from 15000 miles. My 2011 Tundra uses Maxlife ATF as well....none of them having any transmission issues. It's worked so well for me my younger brother changed his 2016 Sequioa and Tundra transmission fluid from WS to Maxlife ATF

Maybe you should switch to WS then. Any ATF will get a transmission to 150k miles. Let me know when they've reached 300k miles like my 05 4runner did. Or 200k miles which is currently on my wifes 07 Lexus.
 

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If you are saying Nebraska has fairly extreme temperature ranges, I appreciate that, but I hope you realize that wind chill and heat indexes only deal with the effect of the weather on human skin, not machinery or other inanimate objects. I.E., if you have antifreeze in your cooling system that is good to -25F and the actual temp is -15F, but the wind chill is -40 you are not going to freeze your coolant. But then, I'm sure you knew that already.
Of course, natural verbiage carried into the post. In terms of real air temperature Omaha has seen a range of 120 degrees in the past 12 months between the hottest and coldest day of the year, perhaps it would have been better said as such.
 

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If we can get the few bolt sizes and their torque spec that would help this thread.

So the part I got a little unsure about is once the oil is drained, and the pan is off, you replace the gasket and the strainer(filter), at what point do you refill the new fluid?
And at what point can you ADD a soft flush as mentioned by B15...and where can we find these IN-OUT ports?

Here are some videos to help better understand the details involved. If you have others, lets take a look!

Here are more links to add that I found to be helpful in answering my above questions......


This one is not the HL, but some of his process is very helpful. Also he is catching all expelled oil, and refills with that measure in mind...

Maybe use one of these to check the temp?
http://a.co/45RPObG
 

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I like the one where you just drain whats in the pan and then refill. I do feel that by doing this on a more regular basis that you would have good results. I have been doing this with brake fluid (turkey baster) for years and have had no issues. I went to the local transmission shop to ask them about cost etc for a Highlander tranny fluid change and the person told me that they charge $200 and would disconnect the hoses and pump the fluid out before doing anything, then they would drop the pan and change the filter. I actually doubt they would drop the pan, but who knows. If you do the method in the video then its my conclusion that the filter would not have dirty fluid to contend with and would last much longer, if a person did this once a year. You could also swap out the Toyota fluid for full synthetic like the Valvoline I currently use in a Honda product, which is excellent.
 

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I like the one where you just drain whats in the pan and then refill. I do feel that by doing this on a more regular basis that you would have good results. I have been doing this with brake fluid (turkey baster) for years and have had no issues.
That's assuming the level was correct beforehand. Factory fills are off sometimes, but it shouldn't be enough to cause harm. I would, at a minimum, check the first go around.

Also, brake fluid doesn't circulate so you're not gaining anything by doing this. Where you really want to keep it clean is down by each caliper which is why you want to flush/bleed the lines
 

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Also, brake fluid doesn't circulate so you're not gaining anything by doing this. Where you really want to keep it clean is down by each caliper which is why you want to flush/bleed the lines

Brake fluid doesn't circulate, but it does migrate. It's not under constant pressure. When it's not under pressure it will migrate up and down the brake line - albeit very slowly. You can try this experiment. Open up the bleeder on a caliper and put in a Red Die (one that won't effect the brake fluid). Within a few days or weeks you'll find some of that die in the reservoir.
 

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Also, brake fluid doesn't circulate so you're not gaining anything by doing this. Where you really want to keep it clean is down by each caliper which is why you want to flush/bleed the line.

This may be true, but 2001 Honda Civic still has clear brake fluid and no issues since doing the turkey baster method. Its not a perfect method, but it works for the last 17 years for that vehicle.
 

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Brake fluid doesn't circulate in a loop. It moves back/forth and mixes. Because you pump the brake pedals 1000's of times a year, fluid will always be moving. You gain much.
Take a straw, fill it with milk, and then put it in a glass of water. Use your snowflakehood lips and suck/release an inch of the milk from the straw into the water, back and forth. Eventually, the water will be cloudy and milk in the straw will be diluted, and then their concentrations will be the same. This is how your brake system works. A dye added to the master cylinder or to any caliper, will eventually migrate EVERYWHERE, just like moisture. Migration is why I siphon/refill my master cylinder at every oil change. When I get around to bleed my brakes, its quick/easy and I never had measured moisture or copper corrosion issues. I currently live in a high humidity area and have seen algae/mold growth in BF reservoirs. This isn't a substitute for a good brake bleed every 2-3 years.

I've seen plenty of Toyota transmissions fail under warranty, and many before 100k miles. So, I won't be switching back to WS. 200k or 300k means nothing as driving style will determine longevity for many. Since my driving style can be detrimental to my transmission's health, it gets a full synthetic ATF. The 8-speed reputation didn't start out too well. And, the 6-speed family has had many issues over the years. PM with a synthetic ATF is an easy upgrade.
 

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Hello Everyone,

Took my 2014 V6 AWD Highlander with 100k to the dealer & after a transmission fluid flush/refill I am getting a vibrating noise between 1 - 2 rpms under 40mph.

Vibrating noise sounds like when you drive over those highway emergency lanes speed bumps.

Dealer Service Dept a second time flush/refilled transmission fuild & updated ECU/TCU software, but vibration noise is still felt. When I shift to S4 vibration is still heard although not as evident.

Looking at some of the posts here it looks like the dealers do not know the transmission filter is called a “strainer” in their ordering catalogs & located inside the transmission pan.

Does anyone in the Midwest region know what is costs on average to pull out the transmission pan, clean pan, replace pan gasket, pan clean magnets, & replace transmission strainer aka filter?

I was surprised to learn at 100k miles if you don’t request pan/magnets cleaned & filter replaced it is not recommended in service bulletins. Shame on me for not asking more questions.

Is anyone else experiencing these vibrations between 1-2rpms under 40mph?
 

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From another section of this forum I received the following advice:

Have the same transmission in our '11 Sienna (U660E). My single experience is that dropping the pan and replacing the filter at 80,000 miles was a huge waste of time. If I had to do it over gain I would have only replaced the fluid. FWIW it is a cellulose filter, not a metal mesh strainer like many other Aisin filters.
No, cleaning the magnets or filter won't do anything for some torque converter slip/lockup stutter. I would do the fluid and hope, because replacing the TC to solve a stutter isn't realistic.

New TC is about $2500 at the Dealer in the Midwest & the tranny would have to be pulled out to get to TC.
 

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That sucks you are having that issue...Would a bottle of Lucas Transmission fluid fix be a good test in understanding what it might be? I'm not suggesting it as I have not used it myself, but have heard it is good for slips. Not sure what it might do to your noise issue.

I am at the point of replacing the ATF and I want to do it myself. I may have done a DIY sticky on some posts, so will be checking to see what method is most logical and straight forward without measuring with the temp and Techstream....Perhaps just knowing how much was drained vs how much filled? Yes, full synthetic is what I think I would use also. I thought that its the OEM ATFluid as well.
 

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what method is most logical and straight forward without measuring with the temp and Techstream....Perhaps just knowing how much was drained vs how much filled?
As long as the level is correct to begin with, AND, BOTH the fluid drained and the fluid added are at the SAME temperature, AND you put in what you drained out, I don't see how the level could be wrong.

There may be those that say fluid should be drained while hot...and I agree. No problem, let it sit in the container until it cools to ambient temp. Then measure the volume and replace with the same volume of new fluid that is also ambient temp.
 

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I was told over filling trans fluid you risk a fire.

My 2008 Mercedes ML350 I got 208k miles.
I was hoping to get the same run out of the 2014 Highland, but it doesn’t look promising.

Because I drive long distances with my family & for work I am probably going to retire this lady.
 

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That sucks you are having that issue...Would a bottle of Lucas Transmission fluid fix be a good test in understanding what it might be? I'm not suggesting it as I have not used it myself, but have heard it is good for slips. Not sure what it might do to your noise issue.
I had a 2006 Corolla with 100k on the transmission. After a transmission fluid flush and fill I had the slipping issue immediately. A bit of the Lucas Transmission Fluid fix and it was fixed. I recommend trying it!
 

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I had a 2006 Corolla with 100k on the transmission. After a transmission fluid flush and fill I had the slipping issue immediately. A bit of the Lucas Transmission Fluid fix and it was fixed. I recommend trying it!

Do you still have the Corolla?
If No, how many miles did you end up having on it?

If yes, how many miles do you have on it now?
 

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Do you still have the Corolla?
If No, how many miles did you end up having on it?

If yes, how many miles do you have on it now?
It was totaled 3 months ago unfortunately. It drove with 0 problems for 20k at the time of the accident (120k). This was about 2 years total. I don't know if it "fixed" the problem long term but it certainly patched it up for those 2 years/20k. In those 20k I had no issues to even suggest it had a problem. I even drain and filled (not flush) at 112k without issues (but topped up with the Lucas transmission fix to be safe).

From what I understand the Lucas transmission fix can add viscosity to help fill in the gaps that grime had been "patching" preventing slips and which the flush got rid of. The worst is you risk wasting $10 on it, there's no real downside to trying it as it won't harm the transmission.
 

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Got a parts quote from dealer....

ATF ws is 10.49 per quart
Gasket is 29.11
Drain washer is 4.55
Fill washer is 11.49
Strainer is 155.80
 
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