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1998 T100 SR5 2WD
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14,466 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This is a modification of all the other remote breathers that other owners have done. I didn't want to drill into my fuel fillup area and read where some have installed it behind the left taillight. Not sure how much rattling it will do back there so I might have to put some leftover 1/2" pipe foam around the hose to minimize the rattle. :D

Parts:
7' of 3/8" fuel hose (rubber) $10?
Differential nipple barb 90404-51319 (Dealer only) ~ $5.35
Zipties
Original breather from differential (clean thoroughly to make sure it's working right)

Tools:
14mm wrench
12mm wrench
10mm nut driver (ratchet/socket)

Using the 14mm wrench, remove the original breather from the rear differential/axle. Clean thoroughly and ensure it works.
Using the 12mm wrench, install the barb in the differential/axle where you removed the original breather.
Using the 10mm nut driver, remove the left rear taillight.
Feed the hose through the taillight opening and to the rear differential. Install the original breather on the top end of the hose and ziptie in place.
Install another ziptie approximately 6" below the breather. This will be used to hold the breather behind the taillight.
Feed the tail of the ziptie into the top hole of the taillight guide socket. Push the taillight into the sockets and reinstall the 10mm bolts.
Ziptie the hose along the wiring harness. Don't overtighten!!
Install the bottom end of the hose to the differential barb. Ziptie in place.
Trim ziptie ends.
Yer done! :D

Piccies... ;)






 

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104 Posts
I ran my rear diff breather up along the fuel tank filler hose and wire tied it in place there behind the filler port. Why drill through the filler port plate?
 

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Moderator
1998 T100 SR5 2WD
Joined
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14,466 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I ran my rear diff breather up along the fuel tank filler hose and wire tied it in place there behind the filler port. Why drill through the filler port plate?
So there's less likely of a chance that dirt and debris will git clogged up in the breather and you can easily access it to check/clean it. With it along the fuel hose, you'll have to undo the tie in order to check/clean it and it will be exposed to the dirt that's flying up under there. ;)
 

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t100
96 T100
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84 Posts
I'm thinking about doing this mod. I'm wondering what are the benefits of doing this? and what about the front diff breather valve?
 

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Moderator
1998 T100 SR5 2WD
Joined
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14,466 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I'm thinking about doing this mod. I'm wondering what are the benefits of doing this? and what about the front diff breather valve?
The benefit is that you don't have to worry about water being sucked into the differential or if yer stock breather valve sticks...you don't blow gear oil out yer axle seals...thus ruining the rear brake shoes and yer day. ;)

Believe it or not...the front differential already has a factory breather mod! ;)
 
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t100
96 T100
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84 Posts
thanks bam for the info. this is how the front breather looks in my truck, is that what the factory breather mod look like??
 

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Moderator
1998 T100 SR5 2WD
Joined
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14,466 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
thanks bam for the info. this is how the front breather looks in my truck, is that what the factory breather mod look like??
Hmmm...I was under the impression that the front differential already had the breather up on the firewall. I guess it doesn't. :(

So you'll have to do one fer the front differential as well. Maybe it was the Hilux/Pickup/4Runner vehicles that had the front breather already set on the firewall from the factory. ;)
 
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Arclight from SoCal
1997 T100 4WD
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101 Posts
BZP,

I got around to doing this on my truck. I followed the same recipe, except that I also did the front diff. This one is a little tricky, because there is only about 3/4" of space between the breather and the bottom of the oil pan. I shortened the breather hose connector to about 1/2" long and made it bend about 30 degrees. I did this by slicing out the middle section of tubing and TIG welding the two ends back together. Now it _just barely_ fits up there without kinking the hose.

I think the "right" way to do this would be to find a male-to-female 90 degree connector, so that you could screw it into the diff and then attach the hose barb from the side. Unfortunately, the thread isn't NPT. It looks to be BSP (like the oil sender) but I didn't check it with a thread gauge.

Here are some pics:





Anyone know of a source for BSP fittings?


Arclight
 
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