1989 Ae92 GTS Starts then dies
i have a 1989 corolla gts that starts up runs for a few seconds then dies it seems like only the cold start injector is firing but im not really sure so any help is very appreciated
side note ive never posted on a forum before so if this is the wrong place could someone point me in the right direction Thanks
side note ive never posted on a forum before so if this is the wrong place could someone point me in the right direction Thanks
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Check that injectors getting voltage, one of the wires should always have 12v when engine is on on position, the other line is controlled by ecu and goes to ground in order to fire the injector.
Will need to then look at wiring diagram to trace things down. Not sure if your year has the resistor pack for the injectors, might check that too.
Will need to then look at wiring diagram to trace things down. Not sure if your year has the resistor pack for the injectors, might check that too.
hmm, any blink codes when you short the diag terminals?
I bought the car as is.. how do i go about checking the maf, crank/cam position sensors?
These cars are pretty basic in the engine management, there isnt a crank position cam sensor per sayr, its all in the distributor. Im still really suspicious of the fuel as you said it runs for a little on the cold start injectors, which indicates timing is ok. MAF is the big flappy door thing on the intake. I dont have the service manual right now, its a variable resistor. The other thing to check is the throttle position sensor, another variable resistor on the throttle butterfly
I think thats correct, do you get any blinks? If you got the right terminals it should blink once, long pause, blink again and keep repeating
Even if there aren't any stored code it should blink constantly on-off-on-off, etc. You need to have the key in the ON position with Te and E1 jumped.
If you jump Fp to +B that will keep the fuel pump on while the key is in the ON position, so this would help rule out a problem with the circuit opening relay. The circuit opening relay is what keeps the fuel pump on from a signal from the ECU. If the ECU doesn't detect that the ignition coil is firing then it will not fire the fuel injector and it won't keep the fuel pump running. If you jump Fp and +B and turn the key to ON you should hear the fuel being pumped to the fuel rail. If you then start the car and it still dies then you can rule out the relay.
If you jump Fp to +B that will keep the fuel pump on while the key is in the ON position, so this would help rule out a problem with the circuit opening relay. The circuit opening relay is what keeps the fuel pump on from a signal from the ECU. If the ECU doesn't detect that the ignition coil is firing then it will not fire the fuel injector and it won't keep the fuel pump running. If you jump Fp and +B and turn the key to ON you should hear the fuel being pumped to the fuel rail. If you then start the car and it still dies then you can rule out the relay.
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Were the wiring harness connectors connected to the injectors when you did your voltage check? If so, this would be normal. If you disconnected the wiring harness connectors from the injector when testing for voltage, only one wire in that connector should have 12v. It makes a difference regarding if the connector remains on or is removed.
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the fuel relay does not stay on constantly , it is regulated to switch on and off by pressure in the rail. At least it should.
Try spraying starter fluid into the intake to see if it runs. When it does, then it’s not fuel pump.
Have you tried allowing the pump to prime before you start the engine? This could tell you something about the pressure if fuel pump is working.
Have you tried allowing the pump to prime before you start the engine? This could tell you something about the pressure if fuel pump is working.
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I don't believe the fuel pump "primes" before attempting to start the engine on these models. I believe the fuel pump first turns on when the key is in the START position when trying to start the engine. Once the engine starts and the key is released to the ON position, the ECU activates the Circuit Opening Relay to maintain the fuel pump running. Only way to prime before starting (key in ON position) is to use a jumper in the diagnostic port.
Yup these corolla do not have fuel pressure sensor so pump runs regardless of that. The AFM airflow flappy thing does have a switch in it that cut off power to the fuel pump if there is no airflowing. Jumping the diag conntor fuel pump terminals will bypass this and fuel pump supposed to run all the time if key is on position.
Yup, I've used starting fluid to see if an engine will start, as a way of verifying that the pump is either good or bad. In the winter months I have to cycle my key (listening for the pump relay to cycle on then off) a few times to build pressure in the fuel system before the engine will actually start. I may have to do this several times before it'll actually start depending on how cold it is outside. This is because my cold start system is broke (I think the injector died, or the temp switch for it did), and I haven't fixed it in the 12+ years I've owned the car. Note it starts just fine above 40*F. It's just a quirk I live with on that car. Sure, it can be a pain in the butt when it's -5*F out, but then the oils nice and thick then too, but it'll eventually start. I like to think of it as an "anti-theft" device.
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