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1989 v6 no spark

7033 Views 3 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  jetwhine
I was going down the road just fine and the next thing I know I'm coasting... anyone been there?

turns over just fine
won't start on starting fluid
no spark coming from igniter/coil to distributer
tried 3 days later, won't start cold
new cap and rotor, still no start
rotor spins while cranking engine
checked distributer air gaps under rotor, OK
primary/secondary resistance test OK on coil
12 volts present on positive side of coil
high tension cord from coil to distributer OK resistance at 10 ohms
pickup coil OK all tested at 167ish ohms
unplugged computer and put 12 volts through harness towards igniter, saw spark off the coil doing this test
trigger pulse test inconclusive? (attach multimeter on little positive and negative wires of coil and crank) should go from 12 volts to zero to 12 to zero etc. very quickly mine jumped around like crazy around 8 - 7 volts.
because I unplugged the computer I can't pull code because without power they reset? discovered the "check engine soon" light bulb is burned out (when I go to start 4runner it does not come on like the rest of the warning lights) and yes I will replace it.
The computer terminal Igt to E1 (ground) test was inconclusive (not sure if I got a good connection and I had a trace amount of voltage before I turned the key to on, like 0.16ish volts):headbang:

Most of these tests are from the FSM, some are off the forum (yes I searched before asking)
my next steps are to buy an igniter on ebay (400 bucks at part store is ridiculous!) and check fuses with multimeter instead of just to look at them

Can anyone think of what I might be missing? Will it hurt my 4runner to just drive it one hour home by putting 12 volts via jumper cable onto positive terminal of coil? Don't know for sure if mine will run doing this, I've heard of someone else doing it.

Thanks a bunch, luckily I was able to get it to a friends house.

7" lift, headers, dual exhaust, 35's Detroit locker in rear, Trutrac LSD in front with 5.29 gears, bikini top, smitty built bumpers front n back, no carpet - roll on bedliner, alpine stereo system, K&N intake system, Warn Gold hubs, KC offroad lights
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· Registered
Lndcrs, 4run, camry,
2,449 Posts
five o'clock 500,

The first thing I thought of was a broken timing belt. Now you said that the distributor is turning. So my next thought is that maybe just maybe some of the teeth of the timing belt have been scrapped off and the timing has jumped. So I would check to make sure that the dizzy is pointing at the number one plug wire when the timing mark is aligned with top dead center. Before you go out and buy things I would at least check this first so you don't spen money needlessly. Just a thought. Might not be the problem but at least check it.

· Registered
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Jetwhine, The truck runs! A visual inspection of the fuses showed they were OK, but when I pulled them all out (individually) and put them back in, the truck started fine and runs and the check engine light works again. The FSM electrical diagram shows the check engine light directly connected to the 7.5 amp engine fuse, all I can think of is that pulling it out and pushing back in disrupted a little corrosion and made a good contact again. Yes it runs on that same fuse again.

Gold nugget for everybody; if the check engine light quits when the motor does, check the engine fuse.
Note: the check engine light always comes on when initially starting the vehicle, thats how you verify that it works

Thanks for your suggestion, Jetwhine
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