My 1990 Celica has a few minor electrical glitches. The warning buzzer that usually sounds when the headlights are on and the key is out of the ignition no longer sounds. Also the sound it makes when you put the key in the ignition and the door is open no longer sounds. There is no specific fuse labled for these and I pulled every fuse anyway and all were good. Does anyone know what it could be?
1990 Celica Electrical Problem
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could be the chime maybe? heck the leads going to it
does the car recognize the door is opened?
The red light in the image of an open door lights up near the tachometer when the door is open.
Another problem is that with the key in the ignition and in the start position, the doors lock themselves even if I unlock them when I get out and the car is running. In other words they relock themselves after I shut the door. I have started the car to warm it up and got out and shut the door and actually had been locked out. Once you get out of the car with the doors unlocked they should not lock themselves automatically with the key in the start postion and/or the car running. I wonder if all of these issues are related to a common circuit?
Another problem is that with the key in the ignition and in the start position, the doors lock themselves even if I unlock them when I get out and the car is running. In other words they relock themselves after I shut the door. I have started the car to warm it up and got out and shut the door and actually had been locked out. Once you get out of the car with the doors unlocked they should not lock themselves automatically with the key in the start postion and/or the car running. I wonder if all of these issues are related to a common circuit?
Do you have an alarm system that could be malfunctioning?
Sounds like you have a wiring problem. Seems like a wire is possibly getting pinched to the body ground somewhere, like from under the dash to the door hinge wiring somewhere. Start with the definite failure, like the locks.
Check page BE-11 in the the body electrical section of the Celica Factory Service Manual. Sounds like something is wrong with the key unlock warning and the possible problems are below. Bottom line...you will need to check some things with a multimeter.
Key unlock warning switch faulty
Door courtesy switch faulty
Integration relay faulty
Wiring faulty"
There is a little vent under the right side of the steering wheel that the sound comes out of.
Sounds like you have a wiring problem. Seems like a wire is possibly getting pinched to the body ground somewhere, like from under the dash to the door hinge wiring somewhere. Start with the definite failure, like the locks.
Check page BE-11 in the the body electrical section of the Celica Factory Service Manual. Sounds like something is wrong with the key unlock warning and the possible problems are below. Bottom line...you will need to check some things with a multimeter.
Key unlock warning switch faulty
Door courtesy switch faulty
Integration relay faulty
Wiring faulty"
There is a little vent under the right side of the steering wheel that the sound comes out of.
maby some water got in i left my window open one night and it rained like a bastard all till the next day i came out to find my headlights on with the switch off and for about a week my lights would just all of a sudden go on or off
oh a few years ago i ran a crew boat with twin v692 tti detroit diesels one of them had water in the starter salinoid and in the morning we would come down to the boat to find it turning over...creepy lol
??
oh a few years ago i ran a crew boat with twin v692 tti detroit diesels one of them had water in the starter salinoid and in the morning we would come down to the boat to find it turning over...creepy lol
??
Well I got the key in the ignition chime working. It turned out to be the door courtesy switches were not working. I replaced them and that took care of that. I'm still trying to figure out why the doors lock on their own and why I don't hear the lights on reminder sound.
That was my first guess.
Next problem is still one of the 3 components left:
Key unlock warning switch faulty
Integration relay faulty
Wiring faulty
I plugged in another door switch and the doors no longer lock on their own so I guess the original switch is faulty. The lights on reminder chime sounds randomly. It seems I have to push on the door courtesy switch slightly and it sounds. I'm not sure why though because the dome light works as it should when the doors are open. Now the radiator fan comes on when I turn the key to the on position. Do you think this is just a coincidence? I wonder if the fan relay in junction block 2 is the culprit.
I do not think that is related to a faulty door courtesy switch. I think maybe the water temperature sensor may be bad, but that is a pure guess. I think it's bad because that is what turns the fan on (I think) if it gets too hot and if it is faulty then the fan may always stay on? Total guess. Anyways, does the gauge seem normal, sitting right in the middle? Probably below due to the fan running. Test the relay for the fan, that can also be stuck on. Measure for continuity on the correct leads coming off the relay with the battery disconnected. One side should read some resistance and the other 2 leads should be open. If that doesn't work, test other components in the circuit, like whatever controls the relay, like the water temp sensor or some other temperature sensor. I would have to look at the circuit and I have not.
Look it the circuit for the radiator fan in the cooling section of the manual and check the troubleshooting for a radiator fan always staying on.
http://discodan.org/gfx/celica/servicemanual/engine/co.pdf
Page CO-26 and 27.
Start there. Seems like we guessed right.
Page CO-26 and 27.
Start there. Seems like we guessed right.
I used the car this morning and the fan didn't come on when I turned the key to the on position. Once the engine is warmed up to normal however, the fan will run for a period even after the engine is shut down and the key is in the on position. Also, when the engine is running the RPM's don't drop immediately after I depress the clutch pedal now. They will stay at 2100 for about three seconds and then drop while driving the car. I checked the throttle linkage and the throttle plate to see if they were hanging up and they are fine. I see different sensors on the throttle housing. Do these control the throttle position? I just don't understand why one problem is following another on this car. They all seem tied together with the electrical system!
Not sure why your RPMs don't drop right away, that is weird! It's like the linkage is a little stuck but it's not? Make fresh post about that and someone should be able to answer on here or check the engine section of the manual.
Page FI-248
Fuel Cut RPM (3S–GTE and 5S–FE)
INSPECTION OF FUEL CUT RPM
1. WARM UP ENGINE
Allow the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature
2. CONNECT TACHOMETER TO ENGINE
Connect the test probe of a tachometer to terminal
IG (–) of the check connector.
NOTICE:
• NEVER allow the tachometer terminal to touch
ground as it could result in damage to the igniter
and/or ignition coil.
• As some tachometers are not compatible with this
ignition system, we recommend that you confirm the
compatibility of your unit before use.
3. INSPECT FUEL CUT RPM
(a) Increase the engine speed to at least 2,500 rpm.
(b) Use a sound scope to check for injector operating
noise.
(c) Check that when the throttle lever is released,
injector operation noise stops momentarily and
then resumes.
HINT: Measure with the A/C OFF.
Fuel return rpm: 3S–GTE 1,600 rpm
5S–FE 1,500 rpm
Does the car run after the ignition is switched off? Could possibly be something in the EGR system or the throttle position sensor.
Fuel Cut RPM (3S–GTE and 5S–FE)
INSPECTION OF FUEL CUT RPM
1. WARM UP ENGINE
Allow the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature
2. CONNECT TACHOMETER TO ENGINE
Connect the test probe of a tachometer to terminal
IG (–) of the check connector.
NOTICE:
• NEVER allow the tachometer terminal to touch
ground as it could result in damage to the igniter
and/or ignition coil.
• As some tachometers are not compatible with this
ignition system, we recommend that you confirm the
compatibility of your unit before use.
3. INSPECT FUEL CUT RPM
(a) Increase the engine speed to at least 2,500 rpm.
(b) Use a sound scope to check for injector operating
noise.
(c) Check that when the throttle lever is released,
injector operation noise stops momentarily and
then resumes.
HINT: Measure with the A/C OFF.
Fuel return rpm: 3S–GTE 1,600 rpm
5S–FE 1,500 rpm
Does the car run after the ignition is switched off? Could possibly be something in the EGR system or the throttle position sensor.
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