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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Might already be posted here, but I want to give a heads up to folks using the DAYCO timing belts. I purchased mine from RA in May 2017 and it failed prematurely 22,022 miles later in July 2021, just over 4 years from initial install. (btw, RA warrants this TB 12 months, unless its part of a water pump/TB kit, then lifetime - I purchased the kit). I've attached photos of failed belt. What was unusual was the lateral cracks visible along with massive linear failure of the entire belt. The engine had been running perfectly the entire 4 years with no overheating/abnormal noises or any other abnormalities whatsoever. I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar failure?

341939
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Had issues with their belts and hoses. And, haven't used them in years because of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Who changed the belt, and how did they install it? That’s symptomatic of not enough belt tension
I installed it myself and checked tension, both at initial install and 500 miles later and it was good. No overheating since I replaced the head gasket, TB, water pump and idler pulley. I haven’t pulled it apart yet as I’m waiting to get a new GATES belt from RA this weekend or early next week. I’ve had this car from California to Virginia and back to Kansas about three times since 2017 and not a single issue. I was actually getting it ready for a trip from Kansas to Virginia here in a couple months, and I’m glad it failed in the driveway instead of out in the middle of Indiana somewhere! If the idler pulley bearing seized or something along those lines, I’ll post the root cause when I finish my failure analysis. The car has been mostly sitting since October 2019 with less than 1,700 miles out on her. Covid2020 prolly less than 200 entire year, so who knows. (FYI I have over 50 years repairing automobiles, fighter jets, motorcycles, military MRAP’s, etc and this is the first time I ever had a belt fail this early.) If I determine that I effed up the install, I’ll let y’all know that too! I’m all about sharing the knowledge.
 

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Hey no problem, hopefully you find something conclusive! Always good to contribute findings. 👍
 

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I installed it myself and checked tension, both at initial install and 500 miles later and it was good. No overheating since I replaced the head gasket, TB, water pump and idler pulley. I haven’t pulled it apart yet as I’m waiting to get a new GATES belt from RA this weekend or early next week. I’ve had this car from California to Virginia and back to Kansas about three times since 2017 and not a single issue. I was actually getting it ready for a trip from Kansas to Virginia here in a couple months, and I’m glad it failed in the driveway instead of out in the middle of Indiana somewhere! If the idler pulley bearing seized or something along those lines, I’ll post the root cause when I finish my failure analysis. The car has been mostly sitting since October 2019 with less than 1,700 miles out on her. Covid2020 prolly less than 200 entire year, so who knows. (FYI I have over 50 years repairing automobiles, fighter jets, motorcycles, military MRAP’s, etc and this is the first time I ever had a belt fail this early.) If I determine that I effed up the install, I’ll let y’all know that too! I’m all about sharing the knowledge.
I installed it myself and checked tension, both at initial install and 500 miles later and it was good. No overheating since I replaced the head gasket, TB, water pump and idler pulley. I haven’t pulled it apart yet as I’m waiting to get a new GATES belt from RA this weekend or early next week. I’ve had this car from California to Virginia and back to Kansas about three times since 2017 and not a single issue. I was actually getting it ready for a trip from Kansas to Virginia here in a couple months, and I’m glad it failed in the driveway instead of out in the middle of Indiana somewhere! If the idler pulley bearing seized or something along those lines, I’ll post the root cause when I finish my failure analysis. The car has been mostly sitting since October 2019 with less than 1,700 miles out on her. Covid2020 prolly less than 200 entire year, so who knows. (FYI I have over 50 years repairing automobiles, fighter jets, motorcycles, military MRAP’s, etc and this is the first time I ever had a belt fail this early.) If I determine that I effed up the install, I’ll let y’all know that too! I’m all about sharing the knowledge.
I'm sorry to hear about this, both a shock and a bummer, even if it did fail in the driveway. I will be very interested in hearing what you determine to be the root cause.
 

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I'm sorry to hear about this, both a shock and a bummer, even if it did fail in the driveway. I will be very interested in hearing what you determine to be the root cause.
I'm sorry to hear about this, both a shock and a bummer, even if it did fail in the driveway. I will be very interested in hearing what you determine to be the root cause.
Looks like the belt just started to fail to me. Must be why Honda wants you to change the belt every 6 years or 70K miles on their cars. My Geo Prizm still has it's original Mitsubioshi belt. The power steering belt on it failled a couple of years ago in a similar fashion as your Dayco belt (coming apart in strings). I bought a new timing belt at that time, but still haven't installed it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
All that was remaining of the 4A-FE timing belt. Shredded and in pieces.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
342489
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
342490
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Bent spring end more to closed position on the outside chance that it possibly broke the plane of belt rotation and started to fray inner edge of timing belt. This is a maybe.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
As best as I can determine, premature timing belt failure (22,022 miles) was caused primarily by oil saturation due to a leaking cam cover seal, with possible mechanical interference of protruding idler pulley spring end into belt rotation plane. Total cost of repair, $12.51 parts, $0 labor. 8 hours repair time.
 

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Premature oil saturation? That could be - with the belt manufacturer you chose. Toyota belts wouldn't do that if in contact with oil - but most people when changing a timing belt take care of any oil leaks (cam shaft seals and crank seals) at the same time. The amount of shredding of those the tension stands in that belt, from my experience, suggests it was operating at significantly too high of tension (shredding of an OEM belt is typical of this install issue). What happened here, given all the variables, I wouldn't really know.
 
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