[tomco]

My current condition is that the brake pedal goes nearly to the floor when braking. The brakes are working, but it is dangerously too close to the floor.

A few years ago I replaced the rotors with new Brembos. I noticed they were thinner than the originals. The seller told me to add shims to the pads. I did this, but the brake pedal travel went closer to the floor than normal.

This winter I has a leak. I replaced a line. I've bled the brakes rear to front, RR-LR-RF-LF and LR-RR-LF-RF, and also bled the master cylinder. I repeated this several times. I have speed bleeders on the cylinders.

Does anyone have any ides on what I might try to get a higher pedal when braking? They don't seem spongy as much as they are just too low. I also checked the brake pedal distance to floor in the up position and it is within specs.

Rotors and pads all have less than 1000 mi. on them.

Thanks!

 

[chuckoff]

Rear drum brakes are out of adjustment.

 

[tomco]

Thanks for the suggestion! I will check the rear drum brake adjustment.

But something else must be wrong, as the brakes were working before I had a line leak - resulting in draining much of the fluid when it was replaced.

 

[tomco]

Brake pedal travel nerly to floor

I've run about 2 quarts of brake fluid in trying to bleed the brakes. The pedal still goes nearly to the floor. I took the Cruiser to a gravel road and stopped suddenly. It appears the rear wheels slid, but not the front. I suspect there is little or no braking up front.

As there are 2 lines from the Master Cylinder, could something inside be damaged so applying the brakes only results in pressure for the rear wheels?

 

[tomco]

Well today I installed a new master cylinder and it did not correct the problem...pedal goes nearly to the floor and braking appears to be with rear brakes only.

i'm wondering if it could be front brake cylinders? load proportioning valve? vacuum booster?

The funny thing is that things were OK until I developed a leak in the line to the rear brakes.

 

[fourwd1]

Did you bleed the new MC first?
If you didn't you'll have trouble bleeding the system.
And as someone stated above, if the rear drum brakes are not adjusted right, you'll never get good pedal no matter how much you bleed the system.
Also, there is a specific order to bleed brakes, are you doing it in proper order?
LSPV is always last.

 

[tomco]

Thanks!

I'll check the rear brakes again and bleed the LSPV last. it's worth a try!

 

[tomco]

I've owned and maintained this Landcruiser for 24 years now, and this is the first time I have had this issue. I have had brake line leaks before and replaceded them, bled brakes and all was OK. Nothing seems to work now.

The car does have a lot of rust underneath. The Load Proportioning System is rusted. Maybe something inside the valve is stuck.

Now I have on a rebuilt Master Cylinder, and I did bleed it before connecting it. I have adjusted the rear brakes, but will keep checking that. Even though the front calipers are fairly new, one or both could not be working properly, or a rear wheel cylinder.

Pumping the brake pedal raises it, but then if you keep pressure on it it goes back down nearly to the floor.

The brakes are working, but I can't seem to get the front brakes to lock in a quick stop, andfd the pedal travel is way down almost to the floor..

 

[tomco]

One more bleed with the LSPV last did the trick. Now i'm on to more brake work replacing another line and the LSPV bleeder plug.