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Discussion Starter #1
Stay with me this may get a little in depth people. My supra is messed up and it's been to four different places to get fixed and on one can figure out wtf is wrong with it.

Description-
So I'll wake up in the morning and start it up. The RPM meter is fine and it will go to the one like a normal supra should. I'll get where I'm going and turn it off. Start it up again 20 minutes later, the RPM meter goes to a little bit below 1. Drive to the next place, 5 minute drive maybe. I get there, turn the car off. Then I come back five minutes later and the supra freaks out. It will start, the engine won't pick up though, it starts sputtering and the ROM meter goes up and down between one and zero. The only way to get it started is to start it and pump the gas, then if it dies, start it again and pump the gas. It's like I have to flood my engine to get it started. Just holding the gas peddle down doesn't do crap so don't say that, you have to pump it. It helps a bit when i turn off electronics too. If I turn my a/c off the RPM meter will go a little further up. But, I want this thing to be able to drive to the store and back and be able to start up no problem. I'm sick of pumping this thing for a year. If anyone might know what this is please let me know. I'd appreciate it. Peace.
 

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Got Hardass?
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2,959 Posts
So, it sounds like you're basically saying "Turning off electronics makes it look like it'll start, but it still doesn't really help"?

When cranking the RPM gauge means next to nothing, so I'd pretty much ignore it anyway all it's telling you is that it's not starting.

When you car fails to start, pop the hood and look on the immediate passenger side of the block towards the nose of the car. You're looking for this guy, except the innards won't be exposed (has a black cover) and it's covered by the power steering reservoir.
Jiggle the wires that come out of this device, and in this area and try starting again. The sensor protruding from the block there is the Cam Position Sensor, and due to it's locations those wires often get cooked and break. Check that out.
 

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Got Hardass?
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That's the Cam Position Sensor.
It's a long shot to say it's your issue, especially when we don't know what you're not getting (spark or fuel) or whatnot or if you're getting spark and fuel and it's just not starting.

It's also, as much as I hate to say it, classic symptoms of heat soak. You're driving long enough to get the engine Hot, then shutting it off, then starting it up for a brief period of time, and shutting it off.

Here's a brief summary of heat soak:
You've driven your car for (let's say 20 minutes) then stopped. All that heat that was being disipated by moving air no longer has anywhere to go. So, that thermal energy is just going to sit there and radiate until the engine cools. Now, every part of the engine bay is getting blasted by heat that has nowhere else to go, this will lead to much higher underhood temperatures than when you are actually driving. Due to the temperatures the engine bay is now seeing, there are several issues. Firstly, the reliability of electronic components reduces with temperature. Second, they're seeing artifical temperatures as that heat soaks into sensors that may not cool very quickly.
So, you get into your car and immediately things are wrong. The ECU sees extreme temperatures and adjusts timing, fuel delivery, and even how much extra air it might take in from the idle air control valve and so on for temperatures that only appear to be there. For all practical purposes they're artifical sensor readings caused by long exposure to high temperatures without a means of cooling. All these add up to a condition that makes starting and running unfriendly. I'm assuming after several minutes of driving the car seems just fine.

Reading back over your problem, since the car does always start I'd rule out the cam position sensor as a likely candidate. You're welcome to jiggle the wires but I have a feeling you'll see no increase in time that it takes (unless it's because you let a lot of heat out from under the hood)
 

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Zoom-Zoom
2008 Mazdaspeed 3
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7,127 Posts
it's a CPS if you're turbo, if you're N/A, check the distributor (they're in the same place)...


make sure your fan clutch is working properly, and if you're little auxilary fans are turning on, it means your car is running hotter than usual, definitely make sure your radiator isn't clogged because your car will over heat and WILL blow a headgasket..
 
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