Toyota Nation Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
1992 camry
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello everybody I'm new to the site and hoping someone could give me some advise on what to do.. I have a 92 Camry 2.2L I've replaced the radiator about 3months ago. Then 3 days ago i was driving on the freeway at about 11pm and my temp was just above the C on my gauge.. so the following day I replace thermostat after that it was staying in the middle of hot and cold on the gauge but after I drive it about 10miles And turn it off I heard bubbling sound coming from engine.. so I popped the hood and seen bubbling in the reservoir.. "wtf" I said to myself.. so I take my Bros car to AutoZone n buy a ECT sensor more coolant and a radiator cap.. so I drain coolant from radiator change ECT sensor put fluid in and new cap and started it.. let it idle for about 30 mins and usually the fans will turn on but they didnt.. when I put a on they will turn on.. so didn't think too much of it.. took it for a quick spin then went back home.. didn't hear no bubbling sound.. so I'm thinking it's fixed.. popped the hood to just look and I noticed the upper radiator hose is almost twice its size... What in the hell did I do wrong??? Someone plz tell me!!!!
Thanx
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,664 Posts
Replace the hose. Quickly. It’s going to fail soon. You didn’t do anything wrong. Getting a new thermostat got it running at the correct temperature, which revealed a bad hose.
 

·
Registered
1992 camry
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks I tried to get one but all the damn auto parts stores close early now do to corona virus.. but first thing in the morning imma change it out.. thanks for the response
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Hopefully its just a bad hose. Bubbling in the reservoir could have been from the bad radiator cap. Keep us posted on how it works out with the new hose
 

·
Registered
1992 camry
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Ok i replaced the upper hose, refilled the coolant and let idle for a good 25mins no overheating hose looked good but still no fans coming on..upper hose very hot while lower hose not hot at all then noticed smoke coming from the radiator cap so checked the temp gauge it's just below half way.. so changed the temp sensor on the radiator, and all the fan relay switches n let it idle again for about 25 mins and same thing no fans and smoke from cap.. my drunk uncle said something (he was pretty drunk so this all I understood from him) "disconnecting the plug from the temp switch on radiator" so I tried that and fans turn on.. so I don't know what that means...

Any help will be greatly apprciated
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,664 Posts
..."disconnecting the plug from the temp switch on radiator" so I tried that and fans turn on.. so I don't know what that means...
That’s how it’s supposed to work. The fans should also kick on if the AC is turned on. And the temperature gauge being at the halfway mark is where it should be if everything is normal.

The smoke coming from the cap makes me think it needs to be replaced. It should never do that. If it was overheating, the cap should release coolant into the overflow reservoir. Get an OEM cap. This is one case where aftermarket parts are junk.
 
  • Like
Reactions: steve108

·
Registered
Joined
·
625 Posts
Do you have the heat on while you're waiting for the fans to come on? A lot of times the heater core will remove enough heat from the coolant that the fans aren't even needed at idle.
 

·
イリジウム
Joined
·
12,307 Posts
I wonder if there’s circulation problems. You already got a new thermostat but what brand is it? I’d recommend Asian on rockauto that had a jiggle valve.

also the water pump working properly?

the top hose bloating and now the new hose gets real hot may mean the coolant isn’t circulating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Well, since the guage reads normal, does anyone here know where the temp sender unit/sensor is that provides input to the guage on the dash?

If the sender/sensor is near the radiator than yeah, the coolant might not even be circulating, through the radiator and maybe not even through the block!

I agree with BMR that the cap should first be replaced here.

Be sure also that the correct refill and air purge process is being performed here, and that this is being done on level ground, especially not pointing downhill.

Hopefully that "smoke" coming from the rad cap isn't really smoke, or it's head-gasket time.
 

·
Registered
1992 camry
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
That’s how it’s supposed to work. The fans should also kick on if the AC is turned on. And the temperature gauge being at the halfway mark is where it should be if everything is normal.

The smoke coming from the cap makes me think it needs to be replaced. It should never do that. If it was overheating, the cap should release coolant into the overflow reservoir. Get an OEM cap. This is one case where aftermarket parts are junk.
Ok thanks imma order a oem cap right now....
 

·
Registered
1992 camry
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Do you have the heat on while you're waiting for the fans to come on? A lot of times the heater core will remove enough heat from the coolant that the fans aren't even needed at idle.
The previous owners eliminated the heater core from what it looks like
 

·
Registered
1992 camry
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I wonder if there’s circulation problems. You already got a new thermostat but what brand is it? I’d recommend Asian on rockauto that had a jiggle valve.

also the water pump working properly?

the top hose bloating and now the new hose gets real hot may mean the coolant isn’t circulating.
The thermostat is from oriellys.. is there any tricks on checking to see if the water pump is actually working or it's just the symptoms says it all?
 

·
Registered
1992 camry
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Well, since the guage reads normal, does anyone here know where the temp sender unit/sensor is that provides input to the guage on the dash?

If the sender/sensor is near the radiator than yeah, the coolant might not even be circulating, through the radiator and maybe not even through the block!

I agree with BMR that the cap should first be replaced here.

Be sure also that the correct refill and air purge process is being performed here, and that this is being done on level ground, especially not pointing downhill.

Hopefully that "smoke" coming from the rad cap isn't really smoke, or it's head-gasket time.
Air Purge process? I've been reading alot of post about bleeding the system.. I've never did that before with any radiator replacements I've done. I should start doing step by step work instead of just jumping right into it haha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Most cars I've worked on, there might be a step involving disconnecting the heater core hose or some other most-elevated connection as the fluid is refilled, but then it's just a matter of reconnecting that and letting the engine run while checking the hose temperature with my hand. The thermostat will open at some point, and suddenly the big hoses to/from the radiator start heating up. If you can detect that more-or-less sudden temperature change then I would assume that the fluid is churning out of the pump AND that the thermostat is working.
And I have to say that I've only once seen a water pump not pumping, though I have witnessed a pretty clogged radiator. A clogged radiator is obvious as the temperature guage climbs and falls with changes in the engine output, going up and down hills. Mainly it goes up though and stays elevated.
 

·
Registered
2014 Corolla, 1992 MR2
Joined
·
18 Posts
You can rule out the new thermostat by taking it out all together until you’ve solved the problem - just don’t go driving until the car warms up.

How long did you have the car before replacing the radiator, and what symptoms led you to replace it?

I’m sure you’ve already checked this, but confirm the serpentine belt is moving without slipping, and the water pump pulley is spinning.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top