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Cool your jets, leiblos. There's no need to get insulting. You're making a huge assumption that the odo in a Gen3 is the same as a Gen1.5. Maybe it is, maybe it isn't.

And you didn't really offer a practical solution for Guapoman. He'd have to add ~350,000 miles to his replacement cluster. How long do you reckon that would take, spinning it with an electric drill??? I'm guessing that worm gear ratio gives a tenth of a mile per revolution? If so, that means it would take 3,500,000 revolutions to rack up 350,000 miles. At a typical drill's max speed of 1,000 RPM, that means it would take 3,500 minutes, or 58.3 hours, or 2.5 days. ...Assuming the thing doesn't seize up spinning for 2+ days at a speed it certainly wasn't designed for.
 

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And you didn't really offer a practical solution for Guapoman. He'd have to add ~350,000 miles to his replacement cluster. How long do you reckon that would take, spinning it with an electric drill??? I'm guessing that worm gear ratio gives a tenth of a mile per revolution? If so, that means it would take 3,500,000 revolutions to rack up 350,000 miles. At a typical drill's max speed of 1,000 RPM, that means it would take 3,500 minutes, or 58.3 hours, or 2.5 days. ...Assuming the thing doesn't seize up spinning for 2+ days at a speed it certainly wasn't designed for.
I went back and looked, meant to say remove the worm gear, once it's out you can spin the digits by hand.
 

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Toyota Collector
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11,833 Posts
Thankfully some one proved I'm correct. Common sense dictates that the design didn't change until it went digital
Gen3 got rid of the speedo cable but the mechanism essentially works the same rotation is from an electric motor instead.
 

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Almost 1/2 Million Miles!
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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Guys,

I like to apologize for my comments as I really didn't look closely to the Gentleman's GEN 1.5 Odometer.

Perhaps the Odometer is the same? I don't know unless someone actually places this on a GEN 3/4!

Believe me when I say that MY COMMENTS from my earlier post was NOT inferring to ANYONE that they could not post here, on the contrary.

Additionally, Believe me when I say that I have dealt with many parts that have been incompatible between the USA versus the Japan versions of the same year and model. Such as the CLOCK REEL, what a Pain in the ASHE that was! Getting a CLOCK REEL for my Japan version Camry from a USA version was an experience I will never forget. So, my entire point for even posting to the Gentleman's Post about his GEN 1.5 Version Odometer "IS" that we all must be careful on any suggestive posts no matter how excited one is with their skill and efforts. I am pleased, in a honest manner that he was able to attain what he wanted with his disassembly.

These Odometers still work assuming no speedometer cable like in the old 1980's and if you look they are all electronic except the old fashioned Odometer Carlisle rotating number rings and the determining factor is the back side connector. It might just be the same or it might be totally different and reason why I pointed out the GEN difference to the gentleman.

Additionally, an other example is you can own the same year 1987 series BMW 325(X) series and in Gear-Head terminology within BMW lovers are designated as E20 and E30's and let me tell you, if you mix Instrument Clusters between these two you will not be able to get accurate RPM readings because BMW implemented Tachometer Coded Plugs! So, you see, even if a vehicle is the same year and looks the same the instrument clusters are really not compatible as they have different in this case of the older BMW's.

All I was doing is trying to help those that don't know any difference and my comments were really NOT necessarily directed to the Gentleman that pretty much Blew a Head Gasket.

PEACE
 

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short-throw dipstick
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Rolling up the odometer, eh?



...as this documentary video proves, sawdust is no snake oil. BTW
 

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Almost 1/2 Million Miles!
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1,758 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Update! 05-28-2019

Hello Good People!:grin:
Just wanted to update this thread to note that the 2nd Instrument Cluster is still working like a charm!:laugh:


Okay, the original Cluster ended with 486,015 miles


The 2nd Cluster was acquired with 132,977 miles and today it is at 176,683 miles.


Calculating the Total Mileage:


176,683
- 132,977
------------------------
43,706 = Delta Mileage from 2nd Cluster.


Therefore, total Mileage:



488,015
+ 43,706
---------------------
529,721 Total Mileage Without Rebuilt History!:wink:


Video to prove that my 1992 Camry is still on the road!


 

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Almost 1/2 Million Miles!
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Discussion Starter #32
Hello good people!

Well, it's been a little over 3 years since I have replaced the Instrument Cluster on my beloved 1992 Toyota Camry XLE and today I replaced the Instrument Plastic Instrument cluster bezel that contains at least the three AC Vents.

This is the 2nd time I am changing out the Bezel because I just could not stand the worn plastic hinges that keep the VENTS to tilt and drop while the AC was running. I guess over time these Plastic tilt hinges wear out and the VENTS tilt downward and now you have the AC air blowing at you down where you don't need.

The other issue was the Instrument Cluster itself. In the beginning the 2nd Cluster did illuminate the Transmission Selector on the middle of the cluster and for some reason it no longer did about a few months ago. Perplexed, I went ahead the carefully took out the Cluster (Partially) and without completely taking out the cluster nor disconnecting any of the connectors. Well, to my amazement I found the connector for the Transmission Selector designation completely disconnected and reason why it was not working! It appears that I did NOT secure this connector correctly and reason with time and vibration this connector worked itself loose.

A few pictures!
 

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Most likely your bulb is just burned out in the "D" position. Mine was like that too and I just swapped out a bulb from my old cluster and it now works like all the rest of the positions that you have shown. Do test any bulb before installing to make sure it is a good bulb!

Alternatively, you could move the Low "L" bulb over to the "D" position since that bulb usually will have very little use and still have much service life left.
 

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Almost 1/2 Million Miles!
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Discussion Starter #34
Most likely your bulb is just burned out in the "D" position. Mine was like that too and I just swapped out a bulb from my old cluster and it now works like all the rest of the positions that you have shown. Do test any bulb before installing to make sure it is a good bulb!

Alternatively, you could move the Low "L" bulb over to the "D" position since that bulb usually will have very little use and still have much service life left.
You know what?

I thought of doing that as well (replace the "D" Bulb) but, I just didn't see HOW in the WORLD you can get to them? I mean I didn't see the normal twist like bulb in that area?

Do I have to remove a Panel in the Area where the Transmission Selector (at the rear of instrument panel) before I can get to those bulbs?

Thanks!
 

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Do I have to remove a Panel in the Area where the Transmission Selector (at the rear of instrument panel) before I can get to those bulbs?
Thanks!
Yes, there is a smaller center "panel" for the tranny selection indicator (and lights). It's a bit hard to get out because there are three (3) tabs that you will have to release all at the same time - and then it will lift out of the main instrument panel.

It would be best to get a helper because these old plastic tabs can break if you bend them to agressively - and you need three hands! I could only release two at a time and I therefore broke one tab but the other two still hold it very securely if that should happen. Then you will see only the base of the very small bulbs which are all on one side of the section that you just removed. Each bulb base you twist counter clockwise (best with small blade screwdriver) and they will lift out of there respective socket.

As you know, it takes some effort to get that instrument panel out so it may not be a project you wish to do just for that one bulb. Maybe wait until you need to remove it for something else...

It looks like there are spaces for 9 bulbs in this panel. The bottom two are for "O/D" and "PWR" .

Looking at this, you can sense that this was something that was built to last for long term, and not to lowest cost only to fail after the warranty period is up (like is built today).
 
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