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Hello TN

I have a 92 ES300 with manual transmission and140k which I bought in late 2018. It was running fine for a year after I replaced the ECU and about a month ago it started having intermittent smoking and bogging which usually goes away after a while. And now its almost undrivable with raw fuel coming out of exhaust,loss of power, very very bad gas mileage <6/gallon, cloud of smoke. No CEL on both ECU'S (I got the oem ECU refubrished and swapped it thinking it was the ECU again but it's not). It's not head gasket or fuel injector. All 6 injectors have been replaced and just changed injector #4 yesterday after a mechanic said when he plugs that injector the fuel pressure drops so I replaced that Injector but the problem didn't go away. He even said the smoke goes away and power returns but when he test drove it with me in the car it was still smoking and I can tell it got now power because I know how it rips when it's in a good running condition. There is some coolant loss but it's leaking on some hose even after i replaced it..will figure that out after she rans fine.So I decided to work on the car myself with your help and here are the things I have changed around the engine bay...new ngk DP spark plugs and premium wires,new cap and rotor, new fuel filter, replaced all six injectors, replaced ECU,intake gasket replaced, throttle body and air intake hose cleaned, air cleaner replaced,using synthetic oil with new filter,compression checked on front 3 cylinders and we're all fine, ran seafoam in both the engine and fuel system, new catalytic converter and y pipe with exhaust manifold gasket,coolant temp sensor replaced...

What I didn't replace so far...fuel pressure regulator,maf sensor and I will attach a picture of a cut wire I just saw on the front fuel rail( you can see the electric wire is cut at the tip of the socket) but I don't think it's causing all this. I'm guessing it has very bad air/fuel ration and or too much fuel pressure or an electric short somewhere. I need help on where to start looking. Thanks
 

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Take the vacuum line ofk the fuel pressure regulator and smell the line for fuel. Best chance I know of is the fuel pressure regulator is leaking through the diaphragm and into the intake manifold, replace the regulator if that is the case.

Next possibility is the coolant temperature sensor is open circuited, meaning it has maximum resistance due to corrosion in the connection. Basically it's telling the ECU that the ambient temperature is 60 below zero or worse and the enrichment is too much for your real ambient temperature.

These two possibilities should be investigated since both will give you the symptoms you describe AND they will cause oil dilution which can destroy the engine if left unrepaired. We used to light the dipstick on fire with a butane lighter to confirm the gas in oil dilution.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I replaced ECT and couldn't smell no fuel in vaccum. Im new to TN and messaged Old mechanic directly of the symptoms.
I can hear static electricity on passenger side by injector #1(not injector operating sound but more of shorted or cut wire) and there is a black electric tape on the fuel rail by injector #1 will post a picture
 

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Sorry I did not get back to you sooner. Checking the PM now and will reply. Again my apologies for the delay.

Trying to do this yourself without experience is a daunting task to say the least. The things than can make a car run that rich are not numerous. I started out with the two best prospects, temp sensor and fuel pressure regulator. Both have the ability to admit massive amounts of fuel into the engine.

It might be best to just replace the pressure regulator, versus buying the tools to check fuel pressure when the engine is running.

Any cut or tampered with wires only bring in a myriad of potential other problems, bottom line if you see or hear something that can affect current travel, FIX IT. There are no unnecessary fuel injection components and the fact that they have been butchered most likely means someone has been there before and that someone should not have been there and could create god only knows what problems.

No engine codes means the information to the ecu is not available, which makes cut wires that much more relevant, since any running that rick should produce a CEL without exception.
 
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