[loriannp17]

Changed the alternator fuse. Can't find fusable links. My honey changed the alternator without disconnecting the battery!!:surprise:
Still wont start! Help please!?

 

[dc_98_cam]

There is a fusible link between the battery and the 100 A alternator fuse, but usually you will find another faulty fuse first. Have you tested the voltage at both sides of the alternator fuse? ...Suggest that you inspect other fuses like 30A AM2, 40A Main, 5A starter, Ignition etc. ... Will probably be one of those.

 

[Stillrunning]

Do you have an owners manual?

I think what you're looking for is the big 30a fuse in Junction Box 2, that's the front box closest the bumper, DS. The fuse looks like it can be pulled out, but it needs to be unbolted from underneath. There are 3 medium current fuses in line #1,2,3 (40,30,30 amp) at that location. You'll need to disconnect the fuse box to get at it. It is clear plastic but visually it may not look blown. Use a flashlight to look closely at it.

 

[loriannp17]

We have changed all fuses and the 100 amp alt fuse. Have the owners manual. Trying to locate the fusible link. The car is completely dead. Won't crank. He changed the alt. without disconnecting the batt. GRRRR

 

[dc_98_cam]

No crank sometimes is an indication of a problem with the Neutral Safety Switch. Take the gearshift, ignition to ON, and move it up and down several times, and then turn switch to Start, like you are going to start it. Listen for any noise or click. If you hear anything at all ...it's probably the NSS ... just needs cleaning.

 

[loriannp17]

He did have to reset the NSS I think.. It was locked in park. Is that the same thing?

 

[dc_98_cam]

If the NSS is defective, it won't crank. On my '98, I had a frozen shifter like you are talking about, but unlocked it like you are saying, and drove it for two years or so, and then had to eventually remove the NSS, disassemble it, clean all contact surfaces, spray with contact cleaner ... Add new dielectric grease. ...This was due to a no start after driving through a rain puddle. Took two hours or so. ... Can't conclusively say what is wrong with yours, but guessing that NSS needs cleaning. It's time for it. Maybe it's just a coincidence that it happened at the same time as the new alternator.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...ral-safety-switch-cleaning-5.html#post8341521

 

[Stillrunning]

Trying to locate the fusible link.

There is no "fusible link" so to speak. The big fuses are Junction Block 2 and Junction Block 1. JB1 is under dash left of steering column.

Can you turn key to "run" to get dash lights? Does any power work?

 

[loriannp17]

Nothing.

 

[dc_98_cam]

Locate the 40A AM1 fuse. You have to use a volt-meter or a test-ight to check for 12v on either side of this fuse. If you get 12v on either side of that AM1 fuse, then the fusible link is good ... not burned out. The AM1 fuse is located below the dash to the left of the steering column. Pull the fuse and test each of the fuse terminals for 12v.
... There may be a panel to remove.

 

[O_loung1]

Nothing.

you might have covered this already but if there is ZERO electrical response, how do you know if the + and - battery terminals are good? was the battery recently tested or replaced prior to replacing the alternator? when was the last time the car ran?

i have had both + and - terminals either corroded out or the actual terminal clamps get stretched just loose enough they weren't making contact after a random impact, like closing one of the car doors.

 

[Strega315]

Start a new thread this one’s 5 years old