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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey I've got a 1993 Previa, about 240,000 miles, has run good for the last five years. It sat for a month from mid December til now in the frozen winter snow in AK, and I've got it in my shop right now trying to figure out why it won't start. It cranks over fine, the battery is in good condition, but the spark plugs don't seem to have any spark. The fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel line to the carburetor all work, and I just replaced all the spark plugs, the distributor cap, and the rotor. It seems somehow that the spark plugs themselves don't have any spark going to them to ignite the fuel. If anyone has any advice let me know! thanks.
 

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Hey I've got a 1993 Previa, about 240,000 miles, has run good for the last five years. It sat for a month from mid December til now in the frozen winter snow in AK, and I've got it in my shop right now trying to figure out why it won't start. It cranks over fine, the battery is in good condition, but the spark plugs don't seem to have any spark. The fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel line to the carburetor all work, and I just replaced all the spark plugs, the distributor cap, and the rotor. It seems somehow that the spark plugs themselves don't have any spark going to them to ignite the fuel. If anyone has any advice let me know! thanks.
Did you start and run the engine after you replaced the spark plugs? First rule of thumb, always check the last change you made before the problem occurred. If you changed them trying to fix the problem then...........to check spark, you can pull one of the plug wires, from the distributor cap, hold it about an inch away from it's seated position and have an assistant crank the engine, if it's getting spark, you'll hear it....to check fuel, tilt back driver seat, there is a "diagnostic connector" there in a little square black box. Open the lid, there will be a diagram of the "pins" there. Jumper the B+ to the Fp, that's 12 volts directly to the fuel pump, if connected properly AND the fuel pump is working, you'll hear the fuel pump run. You can carefully break loose the fitting at the fuel filter or if you still have the engine cover off, the fitting at the fuel pressure regulator............but, since you mentioned a "carburetor", I have doubts about your knowledge of the van....it's electronically fuel injected...........good luck...
 

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My knowledge of the van and car mechanics in general is definitely scant. However I've been working through this problem with my dad who's by no means an auto mechanic but he's very capable and has a lot of practical experience working with engines in general. He was the one who said carburetor and I think he was just assuming that was the case. We'll try out the testing of the spark plugs tomorrow when I get back over to his shop. We ruled out that there was a problem with the fuel pump by loosening the fitting at the fuel filter, pumping the gas and cranking it, and there was fuel coming out of the filter. I'll jumper the B+ to Fp pins and double check that way to hear if the fuel pump is running. I don't think we've taken a look at the fuel pressure regulator. In the sequence of parts coming from the fuel tank, does the fuel pressure regulator come after the filter? The filter appears fine, but perhaps the problem is at the fuel pressure regulator? The other thing we were wondering is, if the fuel line is fine and the problem isn't there, what could it possibly be that is preventing the spark plugs from igniting? Thanks
 

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My knowledge of the van and car mechanics in general is definitely scant. However I've been working through this problem with my dad who's by no means an auto mechanic but he's very capable and has a lot of practical experience working with engines in general. He was the one who said carburetor and I think he was just assuming that was the case. We'll try out the testing of the spark plugs tomorrow when I get back over to his shop. We ruled out that there was a problem with the fuel pump by loosening the fitting at the fuel filter, pumping the gas and cranking it, and there was fuel coming out of the filter. I'll jumper the B+ to Fp pins and double check that way to hear if the fuel pump is running. I don't think we've taken a look at the fuel pressure regulator. In the sequence of parts coming from the fuel tank, does the fuel pressure regulator come after the filter? The filter appears fine, but perhaps the problem is at the fuel pressure regulator? The other thing we were wondering is, if the fuel line is fine and the problem isn't there, what could it possibly be that is preventing the spark plugs from igniting? Thanks
First, the reason I suggested opening the fitting at the fuel pressure regulator is to see if fuel is getting past the fuel filter, the fitting on the bottom of the filter is the inlet from the tank. You could also check this at the cold start valve, it is on the engine inside the cover under the seat. The fuel pressure regulator would not keep it from starting. Do these tests by either cranking the engine or preferably by jumpering the fuel pump circuit.
Have you run diagnostics on the van? In the same diagnostic connector you can jumper TE1 and E1 with the key off, turn off all accessories, put the van in neutral, transmission overdrive button (on end of gear selector) off. Then turn the key to ignition on but do not crank the engine. The check engine light will start to blink if the lite blinks regularly with no pauses it means that there are no codes stored. If the lite blinks once or 2 or 3 etc, then a 4 second pause then another series of blinks, that is a fault code. Write down the code, the code(s), will keep repeating as long as those pins are jumpered and the ignition is on, let them run a few times to make sure you have them right. You can find what they mean at a part store, library, etc. If you can't find them, post here and i'll tell you.
Possible ignition problems, one of the signal generators in the distributor, cap, rotor or ignition amplifier or coil also the wiring associated with those parts. A hint, take those steps one at a time. good luck...
 

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I don't know if the Toyota Dealer in Canada no longer orders them and considers them "discontinued" in Canada. I am in the US and recently ordered an Toyota OEM ignition coil for my 1992 Previa from McGeorge Toyota.

Part number for Ignition Coil:
  • 90919-02200
It is about $100.00 + shipping costs. I was seriously considering getting the NGK 48831 off of RockAuto for about $60.00, but I figured why not go OEM since it's a part that rarely goes bad. By the way, I replaced my ignition coil only as preventative maintenance. I believe mine was the original and Previa had over 400,000 miles. The action was actually spurred on by my friend's 1992 Celica's ignition coil failing on him on a long drive, which left him stranded. He had over 300,000 miles on his, but I don't know if it was the original.

Probably placebo effect, but I feel that my Previa responds better since changing the ignition coil. I am tempted to install the old ignition coil just to see if it really is just in my head that this new ignition coil has given me improved "performance."
 

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I had the same problem as you. Did all the tests but happened to be the ignition coil.
Called Toyota and they said it was discontinued....


Easy fix Amazon.com: Aramox Ignition Coil Control Module, 89621-30010 ABS Plastic Ignition Coil Control Module Fits for Toyota 4runner Celica Previa: Automotive
It's not until after my previous post that I realized you were referring to the Ignition Control Module, which I do see is a discontinued product. Do you know what happened to yours that it went out? Was it just wear and tear from age and mileage?
 
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