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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I had quite the problem trouble shooting this no start problem, so I thought I would write about it to help somebody else.

The car worked perfectly the night before and then in the morning it would just crank and would not start. So i went and looked for the items you would need for a car to run; spark (grounded the plug and there was spark). Looked for fuel; heard the pump running, plugs looked a little wet and there was fuel going back to the tank from the return line. There was also compression so I was getting air. So now I am really stumped, what would cause the car to run great one day and then stop the next. So I changed the fuel pump thinking maybe the old one wasn't providing enough volume. Still no start, so i thought maybe the timing belt might of jumped a tooth or two. Well just to check the timing on the belt you need to do quite a few things to take the top cover off. So I changed the belt since I didn't know the history of the old one (timing was good on the old belt). Put it all back together. Try to start it and it starts. Drove it for a few days and noticed that it hesitated at low RPM's. Maybe the fuel filter was plugged, changed it. Nope same hesitation, so I measured the plug wires and resistance was good. So I change the distributor cap and rotor, still doesn't fix the hesitaion. Then the car dies while driving. Now all of the suddenly I have no spark. So I measure the resistance on the signal generator(good), ignition coil(good). So I changed one of the last things left on the ignition system, which is the igniter, still no sweet sound of a running engine. Returned igniter since it was a very expensive part($250). Then I pulled my hair out and thought it must be the coil. Bought the coil ($57) took ou the distributor, pulled the old coil out, compared the resistance check between old and new. Damn, both read the same resistance. Installed new coil and put distributor back on in the same timing position. Crossed my fingers and toes and turned the key, and then bam the sweet sound of a running engine. Car runs perfect now. I hope this helps some of you trouble shoot some of your car problems.:clap:
 

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2008 Ram 1993 Celica
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Just another tip. If your fuel PSI (pounds per square inch) pressure is not within what it is suppose to be then it will run but it will run like crap or low... You'll hear the pump come on the fuel will flow but yeah... I have 96 Chevy Silverado and it was doing the same thing so I looked into it and the PSI was supposed to be with 60-66. I bought a Direct Pressure Reading Gauge they they design for the fuel system specificly and sure enough the pump was pushing about 55. Replaced the fuel pump and runs like a champ. You should check it out... If you have a haynes or a chilton it will tell you what the pump should be pushing and I know on the chevy it just had a little schrader valve right befor the injector rail to hook up to. Like I said another tip for readers because that problem kicked me for a month. Sure am glad I didnt have to get into distributer backs on that thing!!!
 

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Celica prob.

Map sensor bad car will not run, open circuit relay. While
The car is running wiggle the engine harness and if engine
Sputters check wiring and connectors. Remember the older the car gets
More that things get brittle from the heat. Hope that those
Are some tips to keep in mind. Alright buddy later on!
 

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I had this problem as well and posted many moons ago asking for help. I'm not very versed when it comes to automotive mechanics so I tried many things, including new O2 sensor, throttle body, TPS, ISC valve. I finally figured it out when I tried starting it up a week ago. After numerous attempts it finally started up. I tried to rev it but it cut out immediately. I replaced the coolant temp sensor and now it runs like a champ! Now all I need is a wash and I can finally post some pics!
 
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