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1994 corolla 7A-FE
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 1994 corolla as a cheap daily i got a while ago, during its tenure as my beater it always drank oil at a decent rate. eventually it became severe enough to become annoying. Between the cost of oil and the smoke it produced, i debated whether to get rid of the car or to fix it. Eventually i settled on fixing it properly.
The main issue here is of course myself, i have been working in the technical industry, including aviation and automotive for 10+ years now, and always like to tinker more than is likely good for myself or my cars.
I decided if i was going to yank the head on the old 7A-FE to replace the rings and valve seals id better see what could be done to improve it while i was in there. this resulted in a few months of research, measuring various parts, contacting people at dealerships, and general technical investigation. the result of which is now is far too much time and effort on a daily but entertaining to me all the same. and hopefully entertaining and useful to others in the process.
The first step to the work was sourcing new pistons and rings along with everything else to freshen up the engine, initially i was going to go for the original 7A-FE hardware with new rings. However i decided to see if there was a cheap option for bumping the compression without having to go for 4A-GE or GZE parts which were more than i was willing to spend on a beater. after a lot of looking i found the second gen 4A-FE pistons are the same compression height pin size and valve relief pattern and depth while having a dish of around 6.9-8.3cc as measured across the 4 i purchased. the stock 7A-FE dish is 11.2-12.9cc across the 4 from my engine. the chambers on my head were all around 34.5-36.2cc in volume, and all had pitting and sharp edges in the casting that could prove an issue for detonation, thus i spent a while evening them out and adjusting each to match its respective piston to put my static comp ratio at 10.46:1. the stock HG measured in at 0.61mm thickness compressed while the new nippon reinz gasket i ordered was 0.56mm thick compressed. the 4A-FE pistons sit the same 0.6mm below deck as the 7A-FE.
The variance across the piston volume and chamber volume in the head was rather severe across the castings, which made me interested in the potential for easy gains in the head from smoothing out core shift in the port castings and removing bad casting flash. upon removing the valves i found a lot of easily fixed issues in the second gen FE head casting. the valve seats were shifted from the port center line by up to 2mm in places, and easily brought in line without exceeding 80-85% in the throat to valve head ratio, combined with some bad casting flash and general casting issues gaining a solid 5-10% from the head with a few hours of work was easy. a 30* back cut on the valves further helped and showed a 4% gain on the flow bench.
After finishing the head work i moved on to the manifolds. the stock intake on the non egr manifold, while better than the egr intake is not great. there is a great deal of flash and sharp edges and awkward geometry directly in the air stream limiting flow into the ports and dropping velocity. as the goal was to gain port velocity and maximize torque at low rpm to help with efficiency in daily driving i didn't change the cross sectional area of the ports much at all, however there is plenty of meat in these castings to go further if someone were looking at building a more performance oriented motor. overall with a bit of smoothing and working on the lower port entrance plus plenty of radiusing it showed a sold gain that while not massive will add on to the other work done so far. The exhaust was a bit more involved. the ports of the FE head are rather compromised by the included valve angle and the requisite drain back ports for the oil. i managed to get them close enough to each other to satisfy myself, but i don't doubt there would be significant gains to be had for someone willing to spend a lot more time reshaping them properly. as for the manifold it was a simple 4-2-1 header swap. the original had a large crack in the main body near the o2 sensor bung, and thus had to be replaced anyways. i may take the time to log the back pressure in the exhaust system to see if there was any appreciable improvement due to scavenging from the header, but i doubt it would be more than a scant few percent.
i still have a few parts im finishing up on the testing side for BSFC improvement currently, but after wrapping it up and firing it off for the first time is showed a noticeable improvement in throttle response and acceleration. it can easily follow traffic and the improved throttle response allows for much smoother downshifting. it does slightly slip the clutch at WOT now however, but it was due for one anyways so that and a few other things will be the next order of business for work to be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
got around to swapping in the new shifter to help the far too squishy feel of the stock set up, still waiting for the new spherical bearings to arrive to replace the stock bushings on the trans side. did get the header wrapped to help keep the temps down, id rather not have to replace the rad or alternator due to getting baked. also fabbed up a full system in 2.25" aluminized pipe. went with two resonator bullets one 10" long and one 15" long plus a 3 chamber baffled muffler. managed to get it to almost stock sound levels. next up is sourcing some new rocker panels since mine have some rot plus undercoating the entire chassis in por 15 and wax
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
spent a few hours after work with the car on the lift chasing any rust i could find with a needle scaler. seems the rot went further than id initially thought. just means a lot of time to spend with body hammers, cardboard templates, welders, and sheet metal now. did hit everything left after the scaler had removed loose rust or thin metal with POR15. thankfully it seems the rot didn't get into any of the primary structure, so no real considerations there beyond aesthetics. ill also be working on flat bottoming the car while i fab up the patch panels for the rust, anything to help reduce the CD and lift coefficient should help a little with MPG. after this i still need to put new struts in and wrap up a few things on the suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
got around to putting new struts in. the old ones had lost all gas charge as well as most of the oil, so they were doing nothing but locating the wheel and spring. i replaced the strut mounts with slightly taller models in the process, ended up lifting the front 0.5". good for where i am as there's a lot of dirt and gravel roads that wash out. i also installed a catch can to handle the blowby and oil vapor, id rather not feed any oil into the intake if i have a choice. and finally got a chance to put the alignment targets on it and set it to what i want. the factory spec is a bit of positive toe, but i set it to neutral with a tiny bit of negative, it doesn't self center the wheel as aggressively now but turn in is much crisper. camber is -0.1 per side front and -0.5 per side rear. sadly theres no good way to dial in much more caster, so its at 2.5* per side
 

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Great job!!! You're doing amazing work and thank you for detailed write-up with photos!

Too bad you've got earlier suspension with longitudinal rear bushing on A-arms. The '96+ cars had vertical rear bushing and you can dial in more caster with offset cam bolts.
 

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1994 corolla 7A-FE
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the caster isn't really important, its just something i prefer in the cars i drive. my others are all around 9* or so. it helps with high speed stability, but doesn't effect tire wear or fuel efficiency notably.
i fixed the speedo finally, looks like it had a case of the nichicon capacitor plague. it ate out a few traces on the board but i was able to patch them. ended up going with a low ESR long life product line on the new caps, upside is 4-5X longer rated life and much better at filtering the square wave input signal, downside is they're slightly larger than the originals but still fin in the cluster. i tested it by feeding it power ground and a 50% duty variable frequency square wave signal from my function generator. it tracks the input perfectly, so thats another bit off the list.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just recently got back from a 2200 mile trip in the Corolla. I've been very busy lately so I haven't been able to get much else done on it. I can say with the head work, manifold work, tri y header, full 2.25" exhaust, and 10.4:1 compression it's a good deal faster. It picked a lot up down low, and caries it well all the way up to 6000 or so. I try not to wind it out particularly far since it's intended to be reliable for daily driving. I've been averaging 28-32mpg around town so far. That's averaged across the last 2-3 months of driving. On the trip I mostly spent it around 3000rpm in 5th doing 70 ish mph. It could really use a taller 5th gear, I'll be looking for a later c59 5th assembly later. With a little bit of drafting behind trucks I consumed 52 gallons of fuel across 2200 odd miles. So around 42mpg in pure highway driving. Mind you that's only averaged across one trip of 5 tanks or so. So it's not a 100% conclusive result, but between that and the 30 odd mpg average for driving shorter distances in the mountains, I'd say it's significantly better than a stock Corolla with a 7afe and 5 speed.
 

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1994 corolla 7A-FE
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
clutch went out on me a few weeks ago, mostly due to age but the rear main had started to weep decently as well which worsened the situation. in addition the extra torque hasn't done it any favors. decided that while the old c52 was out to go ahead and replace 5th and the synchro ring too. i wasn't sure if the c59 5th gear had the exact same synchro collar and hub so i ordered a new hub, slider, ring, and all three keys along with the gear set from the dealership. all still in stock surprisingly and not too expensive either. turns out the c52 and c59 use exactly the same everything except for the dive and driven gear tooth count. so for future notice to anyone wanting to do this swap all you need are the two gears as everything else interchanges perfectly. the new clutch going in is a heavier clamp load pressure plate on a organic disc. i prefer a stiff pedal but like organic discs more than ceramic, and i dont intend to race the car so dont need an aggressive clutch. im hoping that the taller 5th gear will help fuel mileage even further. as its broken in its gotten up to 43mpg on the highway doing 80mph, with the current 5th its a little under 4000rpm at that speed, the drop from 0.815:1 to 0.725:1 should help a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
A while back i noticed some play in the shifter and when i pulled the cables found the bushings severely worn. I ended up replacing the stock rubber and brass oem ones with spherical bearings. significant improvement in shift feeling especially with the short shifter. the only noticeable play anymore is in the plastic shifter assembly itself, and thats more than i am willing to do to get crisper shifts in a daily. the bearings were 20$ or so and pressed right into the cable ends without trouble. i would recommend this to anyone trying to eliminate some of the squishy muddled feel of the stock cable shifter as a cheap easy mod. you could technically use delrin or other solid bushings but the arc the cable ends travel in isn't perfectly linear so it would put excessive side loading on the shifter ears in my opinion. the spherical bearings allow for as much angular misalignment as needed without having any linear give and can be greased as needed.
 

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