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Discussion Starter #1
I own a 1995 4Runner with power windows. The left rear passenger window will not go up or down when I use the switch on that door OR the master switch on the driver's door. The window is currently closed so I'm not in a panic but I would like to learn how to diagnose what the problem may be. All other windows operate fine through the master or respective switches on the other doors. I'm a novice when it comes to electrical repairs but do feel strongly that the switches are ok but either the window motor or relay may be the culprit. If one relay controls all windows then it's probably the motor in the door.


Am I on the right track with my presumptions and what can I do to ensure I'm not just throwing parts at the problem? I have replaced the power door lock actuator last year and it was mildly challenging so I would appreciate tips or a detailed tutorial from anyone gurus out there. I have a basic test light but no other electrical test equipment.



P.S. If the motor is the culprit, I plan to acquire one one from Rock Auto unless anyone has a better source that's cost effective. Dealership is major bucks! $$$


Thanks for assistance on this project.


58Toyopet
 

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Remove the door panel, pull the connector going to the motor and feed power directly into the motor to see if it is alive. Another test is connect a light bulb to the motor connector, not an LED but incandescent which has much higher power draw.
 

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Thank you for your advice. Here's what I've done so far:


I removed the door panel in order to gain access to the harness as it comes out of the door(see image). I connected the switch after removing it from the panel for easier handling since I am not a circus juggler. With the key in the ON position I tested each of the 5 pins in the connector while operating the switch both up and down. I used an old school test light and verified it was working and had a good ground but was unable to get it to light up no matter what I did within this process.


Curiously, I heard a single audible click each time either the switch on this door(LR) or the master switch(driver's door) was moved to the close(window up) position although there was nothing when the open(window down) position was tried on either switch.


The window glass itself still doesn't budge but it is interesting that the above mentioned click seems to verify that some power is reaching the window motor in the door. Since I'm not sure what else to do, I await your ongoing support.


P.S. I'm not sure how to perform your other suggested test; "...pull the connector going to the motor and feed power directly into the motor to see if it is alive." because I am afraid of frying something or causing damage to the motor or wiring.
 

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Thank you for your advice. Here's what I've done so far:


I removed the door panel in order to gain access to the harness as it comes out of the door(see image). I connected the switch after removing it from the panel for easier handling since I am not a circus juggler. With the key in the ON position I tested each of the 5 pins in the connector while operating the switch both up and down. I used an old school test light and verified it was working and had a good ground but was unable to get it to light up no matter what I did within this process.


Curiously, I heard a single audible click each time either the switch on this door(LR) or the master switch(driver's door) was moved to the close(window up) position although there was nothing when the open(window down) position was tried on either switch.


The window glass itself still doesn't budge but it is interesting that the above mentioned click seems to verify that some power is reaching the window motor in the door. Since I'm not sure what else to do, I await your ongoing support.


P.S. I'm not sure how to perform your other suggested test; "...pull the connector going to the motor and feed power directly into the motor to see if it is alive." because I am afraid of frying something or causing damage to the motor or wiring.

The motor has a two wire connector that plugs into the vehicle's wiring harness. Unplug that connector and apply power and ground to it. Hot to one side and ground to the other. One way makes it go up, the other way makes it go down. The switches on the car just reverse the current flow to the motor. If you unplug the motor and hook up directly to it, you can see if it is working by by-passing the car's wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I bypassed the wiring, I found the window motor works fine both up and down. Since the switch or the master didn't work, I became curious and removed the switch from the other rear side door(RR) and plugged it into the problem door harness(LR).


The first attempt with the other switch was successful which included use of the master on the driver door. I then took turns alternately using the slave switches from both rear doors plugged into the harness to see if there was a consistent result of perhaps a bad switch. Unfortunately the test results were very random and seems to either have something to do with how a switch is plugged into the harness plug or in the wiring itself.


I tried to wiggle the wires as I had the switch depressed but nothing happened. All pins(male & female) on the switches and harness connector seem to be in good condition with nothing bent/corroded, etc.


At this point I'm wondering if resistance has built up in the slave switches over time as the rear windows operate slower while raising/lowering the glass. I could put some new switches in both rear doors but I don't want to keep throwing parts at this repair if it doesn't address the root cause.


Thanks for additional support with this reapair.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
[SOLVED] 1995 4Runner passenger window doesn't work

I spoke with a tech at my local Toyota dealer who mentioned that there is a module on the back side of the master power window switch in the driver's door that tends to fail as this switch is typically used more than the other slave switches combined. Since I didn't want to pay $200+ for a new factory switch, I bought one online for $35.


It's been over a week since I installed the new aftermarket switch and no problems so far.



Thanks to those who rendered help for the duration.:smile:
 
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