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イリジウム
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So how's starting up? :D

Did you change the lower plenum gaskets with the blue Fel-Pro ones like on the other 1MZ? The PO probably didn't change coolant often enough and used tap water, and must be one of those wrong all-makes coolants. With regularly changed Red/Pentofrost A1, the surfaces should still be pristine.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
So how's starting up? :D

Did you change the lower plenum gaskets with the blue Fel-Pro ones like on the other 1MZ? The PO probably didn't change coolant often enough and used tap water, and must be one of those wrong all-makes coolants. With regularly changed Red/Pentofrost A1, the surfaces should still be pristine.

Ya know I was planning to post the 'first start' vid and more pictures tonight of the work :)

It started up first crank and idled fine when letting it run for 5-7 minutes. Had a slight miss upon first start up, probably because of some coolant in cylinder 6 and pb blaster in cylinder 5 due to a semi binding spark plug (When I removed the lower intake plenum, I guess not ALL the coolant was drained so....yea....). It sounded terrible at first though, probably because of it sitting for a few days and I did wipe off some oil off the top end components. Let it idled and it sounded normal. Restarted later while hot and cold, sounded great. I need to run it longer to make the thermostat open and that would be the true test. Plan to drain and refill the oil, coolant, and transmission in the next few days.

The corrosion is probably caused from the use of tap water. Don't know what the PO did...but probably did use tap. I normally use distilled and all my engine components when I tear down is clean as a mirror. I ended up going with the Beck Arnley 037-6182 intake manifold gasket set. It fit fine and appears to be very good quality. The PO did have the valve cover gasket replaced but I had some hard time removing the old seals. The PO also had a shop do the intake gasket, but they used RTV sealant (as seen in the above pictures) to seal the lower intake. I broke my hose tool removal while removing the spark plug seals..which works pretty okay.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4521-Hose-Removal-Tool/dp/B0050SFZBG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1506381845&sr=8-4&keywords=hose+removal


Any suggestions on getting these nasty seals out without scaring the surfaces? I don't think it matters TOO much on these since the spark plug seals are facing downwards and hoping the gash doesn't make anything leak from the top of the seals.

So far I don't think the HG blew from the by-pass and engine sounds great otherwise after initial startup*knock on wood*.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
For the white crud and intake mating surfaces: get a $5 brass cup brush from Lowe's or Harbor Freight (the Lowe's Kobalt one is better), stick it on a drill and go to town. A power screwdriver works even better than a drill (more control).

I can tell you, it'll make life a lot easier. I'm doing this right now (resealing for oil, coolant, and air) on a Ford Vulcan, and the cup brush will take off crud very quickly and not cramp your hand like sandpaper will. Little OT, but it's amazing (appalling?) how the pushrod Vulcan is technically simpler than the 1MZ, but so much more annoying to work on because some jerk didn't think to make bolt placement serviceable.

Would something like this work?

https://www.amazon.com/PHYHOO-Brushes-Cleaning-Polishing-Attachment/dp/B074N19K5W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1506382124&sr=8-5&keywords=brass+cup+brush

I plan to the same job on my 1998 soon, so I should be prepared lol
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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Greetings Kingdom from northern USA - those are handy to have, but they tend to 'shed' the brass wire filaments easy - so if you do use them, I'd advise covering any ports you don't want brass getting into..

I picked up a '96 Camry XLE v6 this past Friday, (same COP setup you're working on) appreciate your posting this thread & pics, looks like I got some fun ahead for me also, LOL.

The larger brass cup brush that Insight posted up (made for a regular electric drill) really does a good job, got one of those here / it's the 'go-to' tool for cleaning up coolant ports & gasket mating surfaces.

Any advice for avoiding plastic breakage on teardown? Pre-soak w/ PB Blaster, oil, etc?
 

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short-throw dipstick
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That's for a Dremel - IME there's not a lot of rust areas that a Dremel can tackle well. Bogs down when you apply pressure.

You want something like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-2-in-Wire-Cup-Brush/3195515

...notice the hex shank; I use that in a Milwaukee 12-volt screwdriver at the highest RPM. Works well.

Note: INVEST IN A QUALITY RESPIRATOR AND MAYBE ALSO GOGGLES. You'll screw up your lungs one day not noticing that you're inhaling rust and metal particles. I recommend the 3M 7500 series, which is their top-of-the-line half-face cartridge respirator. Cheap, about $45 for the kit on Amazon, and half-face is good for me because I usually wear glasses. Use with filter P/N 60921 (P100, some organic vapor) and you literally won't smell a thing when grinding, sanding, stripping paint, etc. For goggles, my favorite for many years has been Honeywell Uvex; they go over glasses very well and don't fog up easily.

You're going to love using a cup brush. Strips everything off, then you wipe with rags, then you wash away the rest of the crud with brake parts cleaner (50-state, so canned acetone).

Oh, about your hardened spark plug seals. I knock them out with a flathead screwdriver and a small (1-lb) dead-blow mallet. Once you figure out where to hit them you'll have them popping out whole, until then you'll be breaking off pieces. Don't worry about marring the valve cover a bit, these are rubber seals, not Teflon.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Greetings Kingdom from northern USA - those are handy to have, but they tend to 'shed' the brass wire filaments easy - so if you do use them, I'd advise covering any ports you don't want brass getting into..

I picked up a '96 Camry XLE v6 this past Friday, (same COP setup you're working on) appreciate your posting this thread & pics, looks like I got some fun ahead for me also, LOL.

The larger brass cup brush that Insight posted up (made for a regular electric drill) really does a good job, got one of those here / it's the 'go-to' tool for cleaning up coolant ports & gasket mating surfaces.

Any advice for avoiding plastic breakage on teardown? Pre-soak w/ PB Blaster, oil, etc?

Thank you for the advice. I'll probably just go with what ISB recommended. I don't want any pieces falling off.

This can be used to clean anything metal/aluminum, right? Just wanting to make the intake and valve covers look like new but I don't want to make it susceptible to corrosion.

Valve covers, you'd want to use some of these washers. You can go to your local hardware store and pickup a bunch... of 5/16" washers.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAG22W6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

You'll need ideally 16 per cover, so 32. Or you can just get a box. Some say just get new bolts, but the 'old' valve cover bolts may bottom out before they actually apply enough torque on the cover due to the crush washers being compressed from age and use. I've been using 5/16" washers, 2 per each bolt and torque to spec.

For the plastic, not much you can do. You'll BREAK connectors...can't help and I can't find any way around it. Only thing I can suggest is getting spare connectors or used ones from the junkyard. I'll be asking Roman (one of our TN vendors) if he can supply the part numbers. Thankfully, 1MZ engines are very common in the junkyard.

You'd want to invest in silicone tape. You can wrap exposed wires from their covers with this. Its 10000x better than electrical tape I think.

https://www.amazon.com/X-Treme-Tape-TPE-XR1510ZLB-Silicone-Rectangular/dp/B00HWROO7E/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1506391130&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=silicone+tape+xtreme

That's for a Dremel - IME there's not a lot of rust areas that a Dremel can tackle well. Bogs down when you apply pressure.

You want something like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-2-in-Wire-Cup-Brush/3195515

...notice the hex shank; I use that in a Milwaukee 12-volt screwdriver at the highest RPM. Works well.

Note: INVEST IN A QUALITY RESPIRATOR AND MAYBE ALSO GOGGLES. You'll screw up your lungs one day not noticing that you're inhaling rust and metal particles. I recommend the 3M 7500 series, which is their top-of-the-line half-face cartridge respirator. Cheap, about $45 for the kit on Amazon, and half-face is good for me because I usually wear glasses. Use with filter P/N 60921 (P100, some organic vapor) and you literally won't smell a thing when grinding, sanding, stripping paint, etc. For goggles, my favorite for many years has been Honeywell Uvex; they go over glasses very well and don't fog up easily.
Thank you for the suggestion and the concern about getting a respirator. I need to get one for health reasons. I'll also pick up the cup thingy as well. As mention above, this can be used in other place such as surfaces of the throttle body to make it clean or just is just specifically for mating surfaces?
 

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short-throw dipstick
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Thank you for the suggestion and the concern about getting a respirator. I need to get one for health reasons. I'll also pick up the cup thingy as well. As mention above, this can be used in other place such as surfaces of the throttle body to make it clean or just is just specifically for mating surfaces?
Yup, in fact I use the 2-inch on the TB to rip off the carbon deposits :). Since it's enclosed, it'll just push all the carbon to the edges, and you should obviously hold the butterfly open and scrub out all that by hand.

It'll also abrade away little bits of paper gaskets, which is helpful...but if some jackhole used too much or the wrong sealant and you have large swaths of paper gasket stuck (like on a timing cover or water pump), get the Permatex gasket remover stuff and let it soak before scraping away with a gasket scraper, and THEN use a cup brush.

EDIT: I forgot, another reason to get a respirator is because it looks cool
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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Thanks much for the info, will pickup a bulk pack of 5/16" washers for the service, got Silicon Tape here, goood stuff.

"This can be used to clean anything metal/aluminum, right? Just wanting to make the intake and valve covers look like new but I don't want to make it susceptible to corrosion."

No, just mating surfaces only - and yes it's good for steel and aluminum, the brass won't "dig" like a steel wire cup brush. Common sense applies though, start w/ light pressure and keep the cup moving until you get a feel for how much pressure / what speed you'll need to clean a given area.

* Don't use the brass cup on any 'beauty' areas, like the outside of valve covers: the brass cup will leave swirl marks in the finish - best to remove & soak, or get the covers ultrasonic hot-tanked, to restore to original condition.

A fine Nylon cup brush and 100% non-diluted Simple Green cleaner, on the other hand, works well w/ light pressure - it's softer vs. aluminum, followed by a buffing wheel & some extra-fine buffing compound, that will really shine an aluminum valve cover up nice. But lots of work... it's a 'labor of love', given the time involved.

Edit: and +1 w/ Insight: a good pair of mechanic's gloves, proper full eye protection, and a respirator are things I wear here, when using the brass cup & drill also. Lots o' stuff flying around.. >:D
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Thank you both for the advices. More stuff for me to spend on Amazon LOL. Still though, it's things I would use in the future since my fleet and my friends fleets are half 1MZs....lol

Anyhow, here's the pictures. Video is on the top





Removing the bolts/nuts on the lower intake. Oh yea, there are two nuts. THERE ARE WASHERS UNDER THERE....I forgot them when I removed them. Removal order is noted below.



Blown hose



Didn't have much at the time, so razor would have to do...





These knock sensors looks like the ones I've been pulling in my other threads...too corrosion to see what they are though.



http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-camry-3rd-4th-gen-1992-1996-1997-2001-1st-gen-solara-1999-2003/1530946-1mz-fe-knock-sensors.html



Cleaned the surfaces. Gasket time.









Oh yea, don't forget this. New harness for the knock sensor. Old one was crispy and it seemed a bit melted. I hope the knock sensors are still alive though. got this part genuine. Avoid the Dorman per reviews...not worth saving $10 for this part.


So time to pull the valve cover after reassemble the top end.





Not bad. This car used mostly conventional oil with some oil changes going past 3-5K intervals. This car has been using supertech oil 5-30/10-30 with the cheapest fram filters for the last 120K since purchase @ around 214K in 2008. Not pictures, did the cap as well and resealed per FSM.





Rear cover wasn't too bad, but damn. This harness was crispy




Back was pretty clean. Nice.




New theromstat



Time to start reassemble. Be careful these clips are all shot and pretty fragile.




I was able to get away using these generic cut to length hoses for the throttle body coolant lines.



Final assembly picture.






Everything seems to be good except the idle is a bit odd. There's this hissing noise coming from behind the throttle body from this module.


It seems to be coming from itself. I recall it always making a noise from prior. With AC, the hissing noise will start and the car idle will drop around <600. The AC compressor will click off and the noise will go away and idle will raise to around 700RPM....and then repeat over and over.


But yep. Here's the car. Its been through a lot. Hope to keep it going for a bit more.

 

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2001 Camry XLE 1MZ-FE
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Great write up, very complete.

FWIW, next time you have to remove the seals on the valve cover, try this.

Rather than trying to pry them out at the tabs, or try to bend the tabs up with the seals in place, put the screwdriver at the 12:00 or 6:00 position and twist it left to right and the seal will pop right out.

Then you can get access to the tabs and easily pry them up for re-installation of the seals, and then bend them back to hold the seals in place.

.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Great write up, very complete.

FWIW, next time you have to remove the seals on the valve cover, try this.

Rather than trying to pry them out at the tabs, or try to bend the tabs up with the seals in place, put the screwdriver at the 12:00 or 6:00 position and twist it left to right and the seal will pop right out.

Then you can get access to the tabs and easily pry them up for re-installation of the seals, and then bend them back to hold the seals in place.

.
Thanks! I plan to *try* do a write up on this on my 1998. Time wasn't completely on my side this time and there's quite a bit of steps I was trying to capture. Plus, my back was killing me lol.


I will try that method out. Basically having the screw driver tip between the seal and the top of the valve cover then twist from there. Might be better method! I got to try do this to two more 1MZ!
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I adjust a little torx nut on top of the valve...played with it quite a lot and I think I got it so it doesn't cause the car to bogg so much and it doesn't 'hiss' as much now with the AC. Not sure if I should had adjusted it but seems good now.

I'll try drain and refill the transmission and oil change today.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Drain the trans/differential. I used the Torx kit i bought on amazon. it fit perfect

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Wrench-T10-T50-9-Piece-25291/dp/B00I5TGZVG/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1506622889&sr=1-3&keywords=torx&th=1

Although I couldn't break the bolt off for the diff. I used a mallet while holding it in place. Knock it loose. I repeat to tighten it down.


I used the supertech low visosity (gray) bottle to refill. Used almost the entire container. Shifts seems to now be better as the car did have a slight lag when shifting into 'Drive', but again it's too short to tell. Will drive the car more.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Multi-Vehicle-Low-Visosity-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-1-gal/52626199?action=product_interest&action_type=title&beacon_version=1.0.2&bucket_id=irsbucketdefault&client_guid=d00e7ec4-367b-459f-8ba9-5380293320bc&config_id=106&customer_id_enc&findingMethod=p13n&guid=d00e7ec4-367b-459f-8ba9-5380293320bc&item_id=52626199&parent_anchor_item_id=52626198&parent_item_id=52626198&placement_id=irs-106-t1&reporter=recommendations&source=new_site&strategy=PWVAV&visitor_id=b_3fjQ7F1dIuoq24VlNLEQ


Checked out the emissions monitoring, everything is complete except catalysis. Fuel trims are surprisingly good...it's almost as if it could be wrong. Gave the car some nice WOT on merging and freeway, feels good except it doesn't like to downshift to the lowest gear when I know it can at times (i.e. will hold 3rd in WOT ~ 40MPH+ even in PWR mode) but power band feels very nice, not sure if it's a Gen3 thing but...considering the engine and trans has 330K. Also car temps are consistent now. Before the car would run 'cold' when on a down hill. Now it's more steady in the center. Guess a new thermostat helped.

No CEL too now. The car used to have a CEL for an O2 sensor (wire was spliced, I ghetto fixed it) and EGR flow. The EGR valve was missing a gasket...so yea.

I'm currently trying to hunt down a noise. I'm almost positive it's a pulley. It's been making this noise for several years. I'll try post a vid of it in the next day.
 

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short-throw dipstick
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Drain the trans/differential. I used the Torx kit i bought on amazon. it fit perfect

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Wrench-T10-T50-9-Piece-25291/dp/B00I5TGZVG/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1506622889&sr=1-3&keywords=torx&th=1

Although I couldn't break the bolt off for the diff. I used a mallet while holding it in place. Knock it loose. I repeat to tighten it down.


I used the supertech low visosity (gray) bottle to refill. Used almost the entire container. Shifts seems to now be better as the car did have a slight lag when shifting into 'Drive', but again it's too short to tell. Will drive the car more.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Multi-Vehicle-Low-Visosity-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-1-gal/52626199?action=product_interest&action_type=title&beacon_version=1.0.2&bucket_id=irsbucketdefault&client_guid=d00e7ec4-367b-459f-8ba9-5380293320bc&config_id=106&customer_id_enc&findingMethod=p13n&guid=d00e7ec4-367b-459f-8ba9-5380293320bc&item_id=52626199&parent_anchor_item_id=52626198&parent_item_id=52626198&placement_id=irs-106-t1&reporter=recommendations&source=new_site&strategy=PWVAV&visitor_id=b_3fjQ7F1dIuoq24VlNLEQ


Checked out the emissions monitoring, everything is complete except catalysis. Fuel trims are surprisingly good...it's almost as if it could be wrong. Gave the car some nice WOT on merging and freeway, feels good except it doesn't like to downshift to the lowest gear when I know it can at times (i.e. will hold 3rd in WOT ~ 40MPH+ even in PWR mode) but power band feels very nice, not sure if it's a Gen3 thing but...considering the engine and trans has 330K. Also car temps are consistent now. Before the car would run 'cold' when on a down hill. Now it's more steady in the center. Guess a new thermostat helped.

No CEL too now. The car used to have a CEL for an O2 sensor (wire was spliced, I ghetto fixed it) and EGR flow. The EGR valve was missing a gasket...so yea.

I'm currently trying to hunt down a noise. I'm almost positive it's a pulley. It's been making this noise for several years. I'll try post a vid of it in the next day.
Lol I just spent the last day doing a trans refresh on a 545i (replace valve body solenoids, seals, and refill). I stripped out the fill plug and had to bring my welding guy over to remove it, with like two inches of clearance against the trans tunnel. o\ I can't wait until the next trans service on a Toyota, so much easier and none of that "keep it between 40 and 50 degress" BS.

For the price of that SuperTech, I would have ordered the MaxLife and picked up in store.

Yeah people don't take small gaskets seriously. I fixed a stalling problem on a buddy's Dakota that he'd been throwing parts at...turns out it was missing the air cleaner housing gasket and the TB gasket was broken in pieces, so it would stall when the engine vibration made the housing jump and it went lean.
 

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Lol I just spent the last day doing a trans refresh on a 545i (replace valve body solenoids, seals, and refill). I stripped out the fill plug and had to bring my welding guy over to remove it, with like two inches of clearance against the trans tunnel. o\ I can't wait until the next trans service on a Toyota, so much easier and none of that "keep it between 40 and 50 degress" BS.

For the price of that SuperTech, I would have ordered the MaxLife and picked up in store.

Yeah people don't take small gaskets seriously. I fixed a stalling problem on a buddy's Dakota that he'd been throwing parts at...turns out it was missing the air cleaner housing gasket and the TB gasket was broken in pieces, so it would stall when the engine vibration made the housing jump and it went lean.
Geez that is a pain. Thats why I don't like a lot of newer cars, including Toyotas as well. For example, dropping the trans pan on a Gen5 Camry V6 requires you to raise the engine/trans a tad bit because the few bolts are above the subframe. Yea, its not too much extra, but when you got an hour before the sun sets and those extra job you need to do, it can sometimes hamper your progress a bit.

I'd get the MaxLife, but for us since I am not part of the 48 states, I need to pay for shipping to home (store pickup not available). Not about to spend starting $25 for shipping it. We have other stores that has it too, but it's mark up retail about $30.
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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Glad to read you're making quick progress there Kingdom.

For pulley noise, I've had good luck shooting some PB Blaster w/ straw nozzle on the suspected pulley / belt, if it quiets down, there's the answer.

The $200 '96 Camry here is "on blocks" for new rear brake lines now. Everything is ugly under the plastic cover, sigh.

Not the thread-jack, but if you know the (where) those lines (RL, RR) hookup under the hood in the engine compartment, that info w/b much appreciated. Guessing the proportioning valve?

Too tired and sore from 3 days of laying on my back extracting crunchy lines, to trace up the firewall at the moment.. And I need at least 12 hours where I don't smell like Brake Fluid, LOL.
 

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&#12452;&#12522;&#12472;&#12454;&#12512;
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For the valve cover seals I use a Harbor Freight tool. Back then it was like < $5, but doesn't have the changeable tips the new one does. The tip of this tool will touch only the seal and it's easy-out. I wonder if for the lack of the tool a smaller hammer's nail claw will work? Dunno.




I broke my hose tool removal while removing the spark plug seals..which works pretty okay.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4521-Hose-Removal-Tool/dp/B0050SFZBG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1506381845&sr=8-4&keywords=hose+removal

Any suggestions on getting these nasty seals out without scaring the surfaces? .
 

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Yeah, the U-series after around 2005 or so got rid of the dipsticks, so now pretty much all newer transmissions' fluid levels are checked like manual transmissions. Depending on your overnight temperature, I guess in Hawaii you won't need to worry about reading the temp. With the car overnight cold it will be good. I have never bothered with it, particularly with the inaccurate IR thermometer.

Assuming an oil expansion coefficient of .0004, 9 qts of oil at 70F instead of 100F you're looking at a difference of maybe 3-4 oz. Never bothered with ZF transmissions either. I fortunately didn't have problems with the ZF 8 mm hex bit check plug on the side. Some (oil, atf) drain plugs are aluminum for some stupid reason, even dealer morons can't properly loosen them without stripping. Like using the wrong bits.

Another alternative if shipping to Hawaii is a problem would be the Supertech Dexron VI, but it's syn-blend. It's a licensed fluid tested by GM however. Should come out to about $17/gallon, not sure in Hawaii.


Geez that is a pain. Thats why I don't like a lot of newer cars, including Toyotas as well. For example, dropping the trans pan on a Gen5 Camry V6 requires you to raise the engine/trans a tad bit because the few bolts are above the subframe. Yea, its not too much extra, but when you got an hour before the sun sets and those extra job you need to do, it can sometimes hamper your progress a bit.

I'd get the MaxLife, but for us since I am not part of the 48 states, I need to pay for shipping to home (store pickup not available). Not about to spend starting $25 for shipping it. We have other stores that has it too, but it's mark up retail about $30.
 

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Is the PO semi-circular plugs sealed with the red/orange RTV? Looks like the previous owner might have used Permatex Ultra Copper (orange) or just plain hi-temp RTV (red).

Permatex Ultra Grey will be more similar to FIPG in terms of rigidness. But all the Ultra series will work fine and should be stuck on there pretty good.




This might be an A/C idle-up VSV? If you adjust the screw with A/C on, does the idle speed change?

 

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Discussion Starter #40
Glad to read you're making quick progress there Kingdom.

For pulley noise, I've had good luck shooting some PB Blaster w/ straw nozzle on the suspected pulley / belt, if it quiets down, there's the answer.

The $200 '96 Camry here is "on blocks" for new rear brake lines now. Everything is ugly under the plastic cover, sigh.

Not the thread-jack, but if you know the (where) those lines (RL, RR) hookup under the hood in the engine compartment, that info w/b much appreciated. Guessing the proportioning valve?

Too tired and sore from 3 days of laying on my back extracting crunchy lines, to trace up the firewall at the moment.. And I need at least 12 hours where I don't smell like Brake Fluid, LOL.
I'm going to try take some of the bolts off the timing cover to peak underneath on the top end. I'm curious how bad the belt is. I know seals are leaking. The entire front end is CAKED in frosting...ahem oil. Maybe the oil switch on the front could be leaking too?

Sure thing I'll try take pics tomorrow. I still got the car...my friends been busy and driving my 1998 lol.

For the valve cover seals I use a Harbor Freight tool. Back then it was like < $5, but doesn't have the changeable tips the new one does. The tip of this tool will touch only the seal and it's easy-out. I wonder if for the lack of the tool a smaller hammer's nail claw will work? Dunno.

Might give it a shot. I found even with the spark plug tube hoses on the Valve cover being scratch, it doesn't seem to be seeping oil (I mean, it is on top afterall)


Yeah, the U-series after around 2005 or so got rid of the dipsticks, so now pretty much all newer transmissions' fluid levels are checked like manual transmissions. Depending on your overnight temperature, I guess in Hawaii you won't need to worry about reading the temp. With the car overnight cold it will be good. I have never bothered with it, particularly with the inaccurate IR thermometer.

Assuming an oil expansion coefficient of .0004, 9 qts of oil at 70F instead of 100F you're looking at a difference of maybe 3-4 oz. Never bothered with ZF transmissions either. I fortunately didn't have problems with the ZF 8 mm hex bit check plug on the side. Some (oil, atf) drain plugs are aluminum for some stupid reason, even dealer morons can't properly loosen them without stripping. Like using the wrong bits.

Another alternative if shipping to Hawaii is a problem would be the Supertech Dexron VI, but it's syn-blend. It's a licensed fluid tested by GM however. Should come out to about $17/gallon, not sure in Hawaii.
Yea, the temps are pretty consistent here throughout the year.

So far the new transmission fluid seems to be doing good. No abnormal delays. Transmission feels about right, although still sometimes has a delay which doesn't feel like it's shifting completely into gear in 'D' when from another gear sometimes, but waiting an additional second or two fixes it before gassing it. It used to be really bad when I drained and refilled at around 300K....it would take a good 3-6seconds before it had that 'thunk' that it went fully into 'D'.

Is the PO semi-circular plugs sealed with the red/orange RTV? Looks like the previous owner might have used Permatex Ultra Copper (orange) or just plain hi-temp RTV (red).

Permatex Ultra Grey will be more similar to FIPG in terms of rigidness. But all the Ultra series will work fine and should be stuck on there pretty good.




This might be an A/C idle-up VSV? If you adjust the screw with A/C on, does the idle speed change?


Yep. PO or...previous shop used orange. Who ever did work on the car did a decent job on it, but not perfect. Such as some kind of sealant on the inner intake gaskets.

I used the Toyota FIPG once, I probably am going to use it in the future. It feels better than the black RTV i used from Permatex. Then again, it could be that the genuine bug bit me :laugh:


Yep, that valve is the VSV. I had to mess with it and now it idles ok. Feels a little low in idle w/ AC ~550/600rpm, but seems better than before where it idle 1200rpms in idle.
 
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