Toyota Nation Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I'm new to this forum but I've owned my camry wagon (4cylinder) for approximately two years. It currently has about 220,000 miles on it. It drives very well and I've done minimally invasive maintenance on it. However it never holds an idle unsupported on a cold start. I've tried numerous remedies aside from giving it gas which always works. I've cleaned the throttle body and the idle air control valve with both still on the vehicle. I've taken off the entire air hose and filter box replaced filter cleaned the entire system. While this hasn't ended the cold start issue it has improved acceleration and horsepower feels better. After cleaning the iacv the first start of two will idle better but once it's cold again the issue arises. I'm not naturally mechanically inclined but Ive also changed the starter and alternator in this vehicle and found both to be fairly straightforward.Although the starter was a bit harder. Of course on a vehicle this old I buy parts off third party sites and honestly have only spent about $50 dollars total. I have 3 kids so I'm not looking to break the bank. There doesn't appear to be any cracks in the air hoses . I can buy a new iacv online for around $25 but I'm beginning to wonder if that is the ultimate culprit. Could it be the tps or perhaps the egr vacuum modulator. Any input would be appreciated. Additionally there is an unrelated issue I've discovered at the rear of the vehicle the rear cross member has a crack in it but it's hairline and the rear end seems to be holding up well. Id hate to try to remove the bolts on this cross member but I've remedied the crack by using a metal brace over it to keep the subframe integrity intact.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,733 Posts
Cold idle RPM should be ~1500, and drop down to 750 after a few minutes. What's yours doing? Does it idle OK after it's warmed up?

A few things to look at:

Check the ECT, Engine Coolant Temperature sensor's resistance, hot and cold engine. On your 4 cyl, it's got a green connector on it. See pic below for its location. Pull the connector off, and check resistance across the sensor's two terminals with the engine cold and warmed up. Resistance should be about 3,000 ohms cold, and 300 warmed up.

Could be the EGR is stuck open. As a test, try pulling the vacuum line to the EGR valve, and plug the line. This disables it. But it could still be stuck open, so reach under the vacuum diaphragm and thru the holes in the underside, push it up and down with your finger to see if it'll move freely.

Lastly, it could be the IACV has gone bad. It happens fairly often.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It idles fairly well once it has warned up. Id say it idles at 1000rpm once it has warned up. On a cold start it idles at less than 750rpm if I don't compensate with giving it gas to get it going. However on a cold start it normally just dies. If I barely touch the gas it will idle really low around 750rpm or so but if I give it a bit more gas I can keep it at a constant rate depending on how hard I hold the pedal. I've grown very accustomed to regulating it through this process but I though I had resolved the issue because immediately after cleaning the iacv it will idle at 1000rpm without touching the pedal but only on the first start up after cleaning it out. Then it's back to the same old thing. The ect wasn't on my radar but I'll check it and let you know if it could be the culprit. I will say that when I first got the wagon that green sensor connector was covered in oil from a previous leak but I cleaned it up and haven't thought about it since. I was considering replacing the get modulator anyway and I've seen them priced at $12 bucks so I might just change that out as preventative maintenance. Thank you for your reply and I'll let you know how it goes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,772 Posts
Turn the key on and let it sit for 10 seconds before starting the engine. Sounds like the fuel pressure is low when you try to start it. Might be the fuel pressure regulator or something else leaking fuel pressure down. You can install a gauge to check the pressure. It should hold pressure overnight. If the fuel system does not pressurize until it is cranking, disconnect the small wire (cranking signal) from the starter and then it won't crank but should pressurize. Reconnect and see how it starts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Cold idle RPM should be ~1500, and drop down to 750 after a few minutes. What's yours doing? Does it idle OK after it's warmed up?

A few things to look at:

Check the ECT, Engine Coolant Temperature sensor's resistance, hot and cold engine. On your 4 cyl, it's got a green connector on it. See pic below for its location. Pull the connector off, and check resistance across the sensor's two terminals with the engine cold and warmed up. Resistance should be about 3,000 ohms cold, and 300 warmed up.

Could be the EGR is stuck open. As a test, try pulling the vacuum line to the EGR valve, and plug the line. This disables it. But it could still be stuck open, so reach under the vacuum diaphragm and thru the holes in the underside, push it up and down with your finger to see if it'll move freely.

Lastly, it could be the IACV has gone bad. It happens fairly often.

Cold idle RPM should be ~1500, and drop down to 750 after a few minutes. What's yours doing? Does it idle OK after it's warmed up?

A few things to look at:

Check the ECT, Engine Coolant Temperature sensor's resistance, hot and cold engine. On your 4 cyl, it's got a green connector on it. See pic below for its location. Pull the connector off, and check resistance across the sensor's two terminals with the engine cold and warmed up. Resistance should be about 3,000 ohms cold, and 300 warmed up.

Could be the EGR is stuck open. As a test, try pulling the vacuum line to the EGR valve, and plug the line. This disables it. But it could still be stuck open, so reach under the vacuum diaphragm and thru the holes in the underside, push it up and down with your finger to see if it'll move freely.

Lastly, it could be the IACV has gone bad. It happens fairly often.

thanks for the suggestions I tested the green switch today it was functioning according to specifications. The egr modulator is coming via the mail so rather than test it I will change it out as preventative maintenance and I'll keep you posted on its progress.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
thanks for the suggestions I tested the green switch today it was functioning according to specifications. The egr modulator is coming via the mail so rather than test it I will change it out as preventative maintenance and I'll keep you posted on its progress.
I don't think it's the fuel pressure regulator because I have no odor and other than cold starts it runs fairly well. But I'll check into it anyway. I do think there may be a small fuel related element relating to my patching of a small filler neck leak when I first got the car but I totally forgot that cause I haven't had a leak since I fixed it. But could a leaky filler neck have caused this problem it seems unlikely. But let me know if I'm wrong I'm still learning as I go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Yeah my inclination is to believe the iacv is ultimately on its way out. All the other culprits have passed the remedies suggested. Additionally to the person who posted the video I truly appreciate the gesture but unfortunately I've been there done that type of stuff. I guess it's time to buy the new iacv that I've seen for $25 bucks online. The reviews seem solid and I'm crossing my fingers that the piece fits right. Although I will say I've had pretty good luck with these Chinese made knock off parts. In an ideal world where longevity were the main objective id buy more expensive parts until then these beat a blank.Also I know it isn't hard to access the iacv unit but the two screws that hold it to the throttle body look rusted on like they are engrained into the valve itself. I'll be blasting it with lubricant for the next few days in preparation of the part arriving. I'll let you'll know if the replacement piece resolves my issue. Thanks again for everyone's input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,987 Posts
The screws can be a challenge, because they are, like all apparently Philips type on a Toyota/Honda, actually JIS heads.

An actual JIS bit can help (a #2, I believe), as can liberal application of PB Blaster.

If a Picknpull is nearby its great to practice on one of the many "donor cars" with 5SFEs under the hood,
and if you remove a clean one they fit right in your pocket and PNPs pat down policy hasn't been implemented...;)

Good luck!
 

·
'93 LE Wagon V6 '94 LE I4
'93 V6 wagon, '94 I4
Joined
·
929 Posts
OP,
Have you considered pulling the IAC and really hosing it out? I did the spray through the slot fix and it helped a lot, but it wasn't until I pulled the IAC and really cleaned it thoroughly that the issue was resolved.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
The iacv I ordered is suddenly "warehouse out of stock" they refunded my money but I'm sh.. out of luck for a replacement part, I'm not paying the regular asking price. Therefore I will do as dfbonnett suggested and attempt a more thorough cleaning by removing it from the vehicle. Additionally I have begun to notice an unrelated noise on start up. I mean I've always had a bit of engine noise and/or vibration on start up. However within the last week or so I've noticed what sounds like a pully or drivebelt type noise. When I look under the hood it's in the general vicinity of the( knock off) replacement alternator I installed awhile back. I checked The alternator belt itself to make sure it wasn't too tight or loose. It was at right consistency. Furthermore The sound almost seems like it's coming from The spindle mechanism itself or underneath it. It might be my water pump or some other related element. Curiously, it doesnt overheat...ever or lose coolant. The only coolant system issue I've ever had was a bad radiator cap. The way I noticed it was bad is I had a small drip coming from The cap. When it cooled and I could open it I found The spring and rubber gaskets had completely disintegrated themselves apart. I was actually lucky that The spring didn't fall into the radiator! Anyway... The noise seems to dissipate as I revv the idle a bit but doesn't completely go away until I've driven extensively. My engine oil is clean as well as my coolant and power steering fluid. The only other fluid is my transmission fluid which was actually Brown when I purchased the car. At the time it looked more like engine oil....!!!not good at all. But I did two drain and fills and hoped for the best. A couple years and almost 40 thousand miles later the fluid needs to be done shortly. I know there was some left in the torque converter and perhaps other areas but at least it was redder after the two drain and fills.. Now it's getting Brown again but not nearly as dark but I have no issues shifting whatsoever. I hope and don't think that pully/clanking noise is transmission related but I better do a drain and fill again anyway! If it's the water pump how long before it must be changed and why have I had no overheating and I'm constantly driving. Actually the car generally runs rather cool never reaching above the halfway point on the temp index. I'm more inclined to think it's because the alternator is a cheap knock off and it's beginning to slowly die or maybe not...Anyway as always any input is welcome I'm going to make a video with the noise to help diagnostic wise but it's been rather cold the last couple of days but I'll post it soon..
 

·
'93 LE Wagon V6 '94 LE I4
'93 V6 wagon, '94 I4
Joined
·
929 Posts
It could be a bearing in the alternator. You could loosen the belt and see if the noise disappears. I had a similar situation with my '94 last year with a similar noise. It was the bearing in the water pump. I was lucky in that it soon developed a slow drip and I had the pump and TB done before there was a catastrophic failure. Two years before, there was a screeching noise from what sounded like the water pump on my '93. It failed completely with no warning, other than the noise, backing out of the garage. It then leaked so badly that I barely made it to my local guy without overheating. In your place, I'd determine a course of action sooner rather than later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thank you for that post. Id hate to be stuck somewhere and have the type of issue you mention occur. I'm thinking it's more likely the alternator because the noise was non existent prior to putting the new one into the vehicle. If my water pump is heading south then I'll probably not do that type of repair myself. Due to the age and mileage on the vehicle it wouldn't be worth the labor investment. Nor would it be prudent to drive it in that condition either. I'll post the video of the sound and hopefully someone more knowledgeable than myself can give me their best guess. After loosening the alternator belt The sound has decreased but it is still there I'll post video of it. Having a hard time posting video.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Shortly after changing a dead alternator. I've loosened the belt a bit but obviously it's still there. Could it be that this newer alternator which is a cheap Chinese knock off is somewhat faulty? Or does that sound like a water pump issue??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Oh yeah the flexpipe is on its way out but I thought I could here a pulley sound but it isn't really loud which is probably a good thing. I do apologize for the quality of the video but hopefully it's just getting worn down by age and wear. As long as it last until my inspection is up I'll consider it an extreme success. I mean in two years I've driven it everywhere and countless miles so I'll retire the car when May ends. Thanks again.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top