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Hello all, I did search but couldn't exactly find what I was looking for. I have a 96 T-100 with the 2.7 and the 5 speed 2wd and 315k miles. While idling it runs smooth as can be or when you're giving it fuel steadily it runs smooth, when you "punch" the throttle, it bogs down for a second and then starts revving. Also, the guy I got the truck from said sometimes when it gets hot, the truck will try to quit and if you pull over, let it sit for 15 minutes or so, it goes on like nothing happened. He said something about a temp sensor being bad I think, any truth to this? This is my first toyota so I'm learning lol. One more thing, how do I go about changing the spark plugs? It looks as if the plugs/wires go straight down into the valve cover gasket. Thanks to anyone who can help with any of my questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh and 1 more thing, my truck does not have a passenger side door mirror but rather what seems to be a block off plate, is this normal or am I special?
 

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1998 T100 SR5 2WD
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Oh and 1 more thing, my truck does not have a passenger side door mirror but rather what seems to be a block off plate, is this normal or am I special?
...I think yer special. ;)

I haven't come across a single T-100 with a passenger side mirror block off plate. Got piccies? Does it look like a factory block off plate? ;)

If you decide to git a mirror fer the passenger side, any year of T-100 should work. :D
 

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1998 T100 SR5 2WD
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Hello all, I did search but couldn't exactly find what I was looking for. I have a 96 T-100 with the 2.7 and the 5 speed 2wd and 315k miles. While idling it runs smooth as can be or when you're giving it fuel steadily it runs smooth, when you "punch" the throttle, it bogs down for a second and then starts revving. Also, the guy I got the truck from said sometimes when it gets hot, the truck will try to quit and if you pull over, let it sit for 15 minutes or so, it goes on like nothing happened. He said something about a temp sensor being bad I think, any truth to this? This is my first toyota so I'm learning lol. One more thing, how do I go about changing the spark plugs? It looks as if the plugs/wires go straight down into the valve cover gasket. Thanks to anyone who can help with any of my questions.
Sounds like the Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) sensor may be bad...it's the one the ECU uses. Did you measure the resistance of the sensor? According to my Electrical Wiring Diagram (EWD) it looks like the ECT sensor is located on the rear of the engine by the firewall. You'll need to test it cold and hot to see if it's staying within the resistance range. If you have to pull it out, you'll need a 19mm deep socket. Torque value fer install is 14 ft-lbs. ;)

Did you test any other components like the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)? Is the check engine light on? If so, did you pull any codes from the ODBII port? ;)

Have you put yer T-100 on a diagnostics computer and ran the numbers on it? Something like AutoTap, ODBLink, and Digimoto as well as a few others that will do the same thing. Using this type of hardware/software diagnostic combination will allow you to better figure out what's wrong with yer vehicle.

I think Scangauge II will not work in the same manner as the dedicated diagnostics programs (I have this one fer monitoring driving parameters). Just picked up an Ultra-gauge fer the wife's car...but this won't do any real diagnostics either... ;)

You might try cleaning up the throttle body and IAC valve. It's best to pull the whole thing off and give it a good cleaning. My third T-100 is the 4 cylinder and there was a good 1/4" buildup of crud in there...so much that I had to scrape it out! :(

Using www.toyoDIY.com I came up with this part number fer the engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor...89422-35010.

Using www.toyotapartsales.com which is one of the many online dealer parts websites I came up with this:

Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
8942235010 $63.39 $0.00 $45.73
Electrical- Powertrain control- Coolant temp sensor
Coolant temp sensor, t100 1995 - 1998

Using RockAuto.com I came up with this...1996 TOYOTA T100 Coolant Temperature Sensor...prices ranged from $18.44 to $38.79 plus shipping.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks! As for the mirror, it looks to be factory. I just bought the truck last night so I haven't really been able to do any diagnostics on it yet, just trying to get an idea of what to check for. The Check Engine light is not on so no need to pull codes and I'm workin for the government right now so I can't really afford any of those programs, plus it would be kinda hard hooking the desktop into the truck :p Thanks again for the help. Oh and Kiwi, I ran out last night and looked under the hood, my truck doesn't have coil packs, it has a distributor lol.
 

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Thanks! As for the mirror, it looks to be factory. I just bought the truck last night so I haven't really been able to do any diagnostics on it yet, just trying to get an idea of what to check for. The Check Engine light is not on so no need to pull codes and I'm workin for the government right now so I can't really afford any of those programs, plus it would be kinda hard hooking the desktop into the truck :p Thanks again for the help. Oh and Kiwi, I ran out last night and looked under the hood, my truck doesn't have coil packs, it has a distributor lol.
Does yer engine look like this?


If it doesn't, snap some piccies and post them up...I'd be curious on what kinda engine is in there... ;)

The 3RZ-FE came with ignition coils located on the right side of the engine and should be controlled by the igniter. :D
 
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Yep, thats it, the thread Kiwi referred me to showed having to remove a 10mm bolt at each plug but mine doesn't have that, it is like the pic you posted, I thought it was a distributor but when I looked before typing my last post it was around 2 a.m. lol.

Today I put new plugs, a fuel filter, and the coolant temp sensor on it but the hesitation persists. It seemed to do better after the new fuel filter but no change with only the ECT sensor and plugs. The plugs that came out were burning a nice chalky white color so I'm kinda stumped. I tested the TPS and all seems normal, I can't remember the numbers exactly but it was a nice smooth increase with the throttle, no spikes or drop offs. I'm officially stumped after that. I also checked for vacuum leaks and cleaned the throttle body but no change, I'm thinking it's definitely fuel related. It's sat for about a month without being started so I'm probably going to drop the tank and give it a good cleaning and install a new "sock" on the pump and hope for the best. Any other ideas?
 

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Maybe bad gas? Check the hose to the fuel pressure regulator? Maybe even the fuel pressure regulator itself? Clean the MAF and reset the ECU? How good is the PCV valve sounding? I'm still thinking you need to thoroughly clean out that throttle body/intake runner and IAC valve. :D

Again...a good diagnostic computer setup would do you much better than just pulling and replacing.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry for the stupid question but where is the PCV valve at on this motor, same for the FPR, I have never worked on any sort of toyota before so this is a whole new learning experience for me lol.
 

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After studying the pic more carefully, the motor looks similar but my dipstick is on the drivers side way down in there. I'll try and get a pic tomorrow
 

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Gonna go take a piccie of my 1996 T-100 4 cylinder auto... ;)
 
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Front...


Left...


Right...


Top...


Oops...looks like I have the distributor on my 3RZ-FE. ;)

On the "Left" piccie...you can see the FPR on the fuel rail (just to the right of the power steering reservoir) and a vacuum hose going to the sound baffle fer the intake.

On the "Top" piccie, you can see the PCV valve between the heater valve and the intake hose. It's at the 12 o'clock position from the #4 spark plug. I have a long hose on my PCV valve that would be going to an oil catch jar (haven't built one fer this T-100 yet) but it's currently cycling through a fuel filter. ;)

On the "Right" piccie, you can see the MAF (airflow arrow and held in place with 2 phillips screws) right after the filter box.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
That'd be her, everything matches except your fuel filter/PCV mod. I'll run out really quick and see how the PCV valve is. Back in a few.
 

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Ok, It's kinda cold out there right now so I didn't play too much but the PCV valve looks older than me lol so I assume that'd be a good place to start?
 

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Ok, It's kinda cold out there right now so I didn't play too much but the PCV valve looks older than me lol so I assume that'd be a good place to start?
You can pull and shake the valve. If it doesn't rattle, then chances are it's not letting the blow by vent from the engine properly...or it's open all the time. ;)

Be careful that the rubber grommet isn't all hardened up that it cracks and falls into the engine... :(
 
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Shake it, check. Thanks bro, I truly appreciate all the help you've been thus far.
Bam is awesome he knows these trucks! Did you happen to take off the top of the distributor cap and replace that and the rotor in there? Those will for sure cause hesitation symptoms. The parts are cheep, but for sure don't get the cheepest parts, get oem parts of the better ones at the parts store!

Hope you get this figured out.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok guys, apparently the bulb for the CEL is blown or something. I finally found my Actron Pocketscan and hooked it up for giggles. I found four codes.

P0120
P0125
P0135
P0141

I looked them up and I can see the TPS being bad as being mentioned before, the one I can't figure out is the P0125 which is the ECT sensor, I replaced that yesterday but I'm still getting the code. I think the 2 O2 sensor codes are just stemming from another problem. Any ideas?
 

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P0120 Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Malfunction

P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control; ECT Excessive Time to Closed Loop Fuel Control

P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
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Fer the O2 sensors...I'm gonna guess that the previous owner put in some Bosch sensors. To date, Denso is the only O2 sensors that should be used on the Toyota vehicles.

Did you clear the codes after you replaced the parts? Does yer scanner allow you to read the TPS signals? ;)

Again...a computer diagnostics setup would probably be the best thing to check the vehicle over with... :D

Just thought of something...maybe the previous owner pulled the thermostat out or it's stuck open. You'll need to check and see... How long does the engine take to come to operating temp? It shouldn't take very long at all when yer driving. :D
 
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