you can try and replace the fuel filter and also clean out the IACV (idle air control valve) and EGR valve.
1996 automatic Camry won't idle, stalls
I have a 1996 automatic camry, and for the life of me I cant get it to idle, it will just stall. If I give it gas it will stay running. It happened just all of a sudden, drove it into a parking lot, parked and then it would no longer idle.
I pulled ECU codes, and its throwing P0773 which is the E Shift Solenoid. Would this cause the car to not idle, and just stall out? Is this an easy replacement? A quick search revealed its inside of the transmission pan.
For the time being, I unplugged a vac line into the intake manifold, which allows the engine enough air to keep from stalling, but as one might expect, this has killed my gas milage. A poor bandaide fix until I can figure out the real problem.
Thanks for any suggestions/help!
Steven
EDIT-- Within the past 2 months I did a basic tune up, replaced cap&rotor, spark plugs, oil change, etc..I didn't however replace the fuel filter.
I pulled ECU codes, and its throwing P0773 which is the E Shift Solenoid. Would this cause the car to not idle, and just stall out? Is this an easy replacement? A quick search revealed its inside of the transmission pan.
For the time being, I unplugged a vac line into the intake manifold, which allows the engine enough air to keep from stalling, but as one might expect, this has killed my gas milage. A poor bandaide fix until I can figure out the real problem.
Thanks for any suggestions/help!
Steven
EDIT-- Within the past 2 months I did a basic tune up, replaced cap&rotor, spark plugs, oil change, etc..I didn't however replace the fuel filter.
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
the IACV is connected to that triangle (or square i forget) shaped hole right in the throttle body before the throttle plate correct? I sprayed some cleaner down there earlier, w/o much luck. I put my finger over that hole and could feel suction, so I assumed it was working properly and not all that gunked up.chronoti said:you can try and replace the fuel filter and also clean out the IACV (idle air control valve) and EGR valve.
You didn't mention the plug wires. Often when wires age they get brittle. It's possible that the handling of them when you changed the plugs and cap caused a break internally in one of them. Sometime you can find this by misting the wires with water from a spray bottle in the dark and looking for arcing.
You might also check for a vac line that has split or come loose.
FWIW
YMMV
You might also check for a vac line that has split or come loose.
FWIW
YMMV
anyone know anything about the cel code I posted?
anyone think it could be a stretched timing belt causing the car to not idle? How tough of a job is a timing belt? Doesn't look to bad in my helms manual.
P0773 Shift Solenoid E Electrical
that could be the lock-up solonid i have no idea, all my manuals address them by the name 1,2 and sl. check the connectors on the out side of the tranny and make sure they are all on good. other than that you might need to drop the tranny pan and check them to see which is the bad one and replace it.
that could be the lock-up solonid i have no idea, all my manuals address them by the name 1,2 and sl. check the connectors on the out side of the tranny and make sure they are all on good. other than that you might need to drop the tranny pan and check them to see which is the bad one and replace it.
often, the solenoid just misreads a shift or something along those lines and throws a code...reset it and see if it comes back
Maybe the O2 sensor
My vehicle would not start, and it was an oxygen sensor. Other posts in the forums mention similar problems. When this sensor works incorrectly, you would get too much gasoline in your mix (like if it were cold).
Does this happen when the vehicle is hot or cold?
Luis
My vehicle would not start, and it was an oxygen sensor. Other posts in the forums mention similar problems. When this sensor works incorrectly, you would get too much gasoline in your mix (like if it were cold).
Does this happen when the vehicle is hot or cold?
Luis
resetting has had no effect.Eye8Pussies said:often, the solenoid just misreads a shift or something along those lines and throws a code...reset it and see if it comes back
This happens when its hot and cold.luiscolorado said:My vehicle would not start, and it was an oxygen sensor. Other posts in the forums mention similar problems. When this sensor works incorrectly, you would get too much gasoline in your mix (like if it were cold).
Does this happen when the vehicle is hot or cold?
Luis
The car did throw the following code previously:
P0420
which appears to be: Catalyst efficiency below threshold
but it hasn't shown up the last 2 times i've had codes checked.
I have never heard of a bad cat effecting drivability (unless the cat was completly clogged somehow)
P0420
which appears to be: Catalyst efficiency below threshold
but it hasn't shown up the last 2 times i've had codes checked.
I have never heard of a bad cat effecting drivability (unless the cat was completly clogged somehow)
just an fyi - when i got the 0420 code on my car, it still ran perfectly.
I think at this point I'm going to pop-off the upper timing belt cover and have a look at the condition of the belt. Theres approx 160k miles on the car, how often are you supposed to change the belt? I'd guess it to be around every 60k miles.
I've already priced out a new belt + tensioner + idler pully + crank & camshaft seals and water pump to be around $150. The process doesn't look too difficult, I've done timing belts on my TT 300zx (quad cams) so lining up a single cam sprocket and crank shouldn't be too difficult, although I'm not looking forward to it by any means! The things you'll do for your significant other lol.
Does anyone recommend replacing anything else while I'm down there replacing the belt? From my manaul I just seemed like the two seals and water pump (and belt tensioner and idler pully).
I've already priced out a new belt + tensioner + idler pully + crank & camshaft seals and water pump to be around $150. The process doesn't look too difficult, I've done timing belts on my TT 300zx (quad cams) so lining up a single cam sprocket and crank shouldn't be too difficult, although I'm not looking forward to it by any means! The things you'll do for your significant other lol.
Does anyone recommend replacing anything else while I'm down there replacing the belt? From my manaul I just seemed like the two seals and water pump (and belt tensioner and idler pully).
i think the oil pump is there too (not too much of the i4 guy) and your right about 60k miles.
http://toyotanation.com/forum/t62501.html
toyota manual if you dont have it.
a o2 sensor shouldnt cause the engine not to run, or if it is even suspected just unplug them and reset the ecu. the car will run in open loop mode and work fine unless there something else wrong.
also now thinking about it check the intake air temp sensor, if the engine doesn't get the right temp from that it will mess up the af ratio a little also i remember there being a few problems with the coolent temp sensor but i dont think it cause those idle problems just fuel economy.
http://toyotanation.com/forum/t62501.html
toyota manual if you dont have it.
a o2 sensor shouldnt cause the engine not to run, or if it is even suspected just unplug them and reset the ecu. the car will run in open loop mode and work fine unless there something else wrong.
also now thinking about it check the intake air temp sensor, if the engine doesn't get the right temp from that it will mess up the af ratio a little also i remember there being a few problems with the coolent temp sensor but i dont think it cause those idle problems just fuel economy.
timing belts don't really stretch much. they give about 1%...and then break. Given your code, I would start with the transmission...when you drive, does it shift? if it give you all gears and o/d, it isn't likely to be the culprit of your drivability. If the car idles rough/won't stay alive @ idle but is okay above 1500rpm, either the iac or the egr could be the culprit. keep it alive, but near idle and feel the egr valve itself with your hand (carefully! could be very very hot!). if it is warm/hot, exhaust gases are flowing into your intake and displacing oxygen bearing air. Try blocking off the pipe with cardboard and letting it idle. if nothing changed, keep going. I don't know a simple way to check for iac function...it would have thrown a code though.
in reference to the p0420: tap the cat with a mallet or hammer. if it rattles inside, cat's toast. they will plug up the exhaust pretty quickly. You can verify blockage by removing the upstream o2 sensor. The car will run in open loop mode, be very loud, and most importantly, work.
keep us posted.
in reference to the p0420: tap the cat with a mallet or hammer. if it rattles inside, cat's toast. they will plug up the exhaust pretty quickly. You can verify blockage by removing the upstream o2 sensor. The car will run in open loop mode, be very loud, and most importantly, work.
keep us posted.
Thanks for the tips, I'll fiddle around with the IACV and EGR some and let you guys know.96CamrySport said:timing belts don't really stretch much. they give about 1%...and then break. Given your code, I would start with the transmission...when you drive, does it shift? if it give you all gears and o/d, it isn't likely to be the culprit of your drivability. If the car idles rough/won't stay alive @ idle but is okay above 1500rpm, either the iac or the egr could be the culprit. keep it alive, but near idle and feel the egr valve itself with your hand (carefully! could be very very hot!). if it is warm/hot, exhaust gases are flowing into your intake and displacing oxygen bearing air. Try blocking off the pipe with cardboard and letting it idle. if nothing changed, keep going. I don't know a simple way to check for iac function...it would have thrown a code though.
in reference to the p0420: tap the cat with a mallet or hammer. if it rattles inside, cat's toast. they will plug up the exhaust pretty quickly. You can verify blockage by removing the upstream o2 sensor. The car will run in open loop mode, be very loud, and most importantly, work.
keep us posted.
EDIT-- Oops, I'm not so sure its the transmission sensor making the car not idle. The car drives and shifts fine into all gears. I'll take a look at the manual that was posted and see if I can find the sensor that the ECU is throwing the CEL for.
1. The timing belt will not effect idle at all, unless it has jumped a tooth. The motor would run very very poorly.
2. Not in the Transmission. The solenids do not get stuck in the "on" position.
3. PO420 s emission which will not effect drivability.
The problem your car has is 100% the ISCV. At Toyota we used to replace these DAILY, they get filled with deposits from the egr. Even if there is some air flow, it usually is not enough to maintain proper idle.
If you want to save $200.00 then take the ISCV off the throttle body and give it a real good cleaning. Spraying carb cleaner down the whole in the TB on cleans a small portion of the valve.
1. Remove TB.
2. Clamp the 2 small coolant lines that run into and out of the ISCV and remove.
3. Use a set of needle nose plyers to remove the 4 philips head screws that keep the ISCV on the TB. Trust me on this,... you will strip the screws if you try using a screw driver to remove them, They are tight. DO NOT use an impact driver to remove them, that can damage the TPS.
4. Once you have the ISCV in hand, you will see where you need to clean.
5. The one thing you will need from toyota is the rubber ISCV gasket, its only a few dollars, but I have seen them leak when not replaced.
5. reassemble, remove the EFI fuse for 20 seconds, reinstall fuse and start the motor.
6. Make sure those 2 small coolant lines are not leaking, and check coolant level.
-DM
2. Not in the Transmission. The solenids do not get stuck in the "on" position.
3. PO420 s emission which will not effect drivability.
The problem your car has is 100% the ISCV. At Toyota we used to replace these DAILY, they get filled with deposits from the egr. Even if there is some air flow, it usually is not enough to maintain proper idle.
If you want to save $200.00 then take the ISCV off the throttle body and give it a real good cleaning. Spraying carb cleaner down the whole in the TB on cleans a small portion of the valve.
1. Remove TB.
2. Clamp the 2 small coolant lines that run into and out of the ISCV and remove.
3. Use a set of needle nose plyers to remove the 4 philips head screws that keep the ISCV on the TB. Trust me on this,... you will strip the screws if you try using a screw driver to remove them, They are tight. DO NOT use an impact driver to remove them, that can damage the TPS.
4. Once you have the ISCV in hand, you will see where you need to clean.
5. The one thing you will need from toyota is the rubber ISCV gasket, its only a few dollars, but I have seen them leak when not replaced.
5. reassemble, remove the EFI fuse for 20 seconds, reinstall fuse and start the motor.
6. Make sure those 2 small coolant lines are not leaking, and check coolant level.
-DM
Thanks, I was reading about where the ISCV/IACV is and how to remove it earlier today in the above posted manual. I've pulled and cleaned IACV's on Nissan engines and understand what you mean when you say they can get sludged/clogged up.DM-Slider said:1. The timing belt will not effect idle at all, unless it has jumped a tooth. The motor would run very very poorly.
2. Not in the Transmission. The solenids do not get stuck in the "on" position.
3. PO420 s emission which will not effect drivability.
The problem your car has is 100% the ISCV. At Toyota we used to replace these DAILY, they get filled with deposits from the egr. Even if there is some air flow, it usually is not enough to maintain proper idle.
If you want to save $200.00 then take the ISCV off the throttle body and give it a real good cleaning. Spraying carb cleaner down the whole in the TB on cleans a small portion of the valve.
1. Remove TB.
2. Clamp the 2 small coolant lines that run into and out of the ISCV and remove.
3. Use a set of needle nose plyers to remove the 4 philips head screws that keep the ISCV on the TB. Trust me on this,... you will strip the screws if you try using a screw driver to remove them, They are tight. DO NOT use an impact driver to remove them, that can damage the TPS.
4. Once you have the ISCV in hand, you will see where you need to clean.
5. The one thing you will need from toyota is the rubber ISCV gasket, its only a few dollars, but I have seen them leak when not replaced.
5. reassemble, remove the EFI fuse for 20 seconds, reinstall fuse and start the motor.
6. Make sure those 2 small coolant lines are not leaking, and check coolant level.
-DM
DM-Slider - You were spot on! Thanks to everyone who responded and helped me out!
I picked up a new ISCV and throttle body gasket and pulled it all appart. The little piston thing was frozen shut due to carbon buildup. Pulled it appart on all ends, sprayed the piston down with throttle body cleaner til it could rotate freely and stuck it all back together. Idles like a champ now!
I picked up a new ISCV and throttle body gasket and pulled it all appart. The little piston thing was frozen shut due to carbon buildup. Pulled it appart on all ends, sprayed the piston down with throttle body cleaner til it could rotate freely and stuck it all back together. Idles like a champ now!
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
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