you can try and replace the fuel filter and also clean out the IACV (idle air control valve) and EGR valve.
the IACV is connected to that triangle (or square i forget) shaped hole right in the throttle body before the throttle plate correct? I sprayed some cleaner down there earlier, w/o much luck. I put my finger over that hole and could feel suction, so I assumed it was working properly and not all that gunked up.chronoti said:you can try and replace the fuel filter and also clean out the IACV (idle air control valve) and EGR valve.
resetting has had no effect.Eye8Pussies said:often, the solenoid just misreads a shift or something along those lines and throws a code...reset it and see if it comes back
This happens when its hot and cold.luiscolorado said:My vehicle would not start, and it was an oxygen sensor. Other posts in the forums mention similar problems. When this sensor works incorrectly, you would get too much gasoline in your mix (like if it were cold).
Does this happen when the vehicle is hot or cold?
Thanks for the tips, I'll fiddle around with the IACV and EGR some and let you guys know.96CamrySport said:timing belts don't really stretch much. they give about 1%...and then break. Given your code, I would start with the transmission...when you drive, does it shift? if it give you all gears and o/d, it isn't likely to be the culprit of your drivability. If the car idles rough/won't stay alive @ idle but is okay above 1500rpm, either the iac or the egr could be the culprit. keep it alive, but near idle and feel the egr valve itself with your hand (carefully! could be very very hot!). if it is warm/hot, exhaust gases are flowing into your intake and displacing oxygen bearing air. Try blocking off the pipe with cardboard and letting it idle. if nothing changed, keep going. I don't know a simple way to check for iac function...it would have thrown a code though.
in reference to the p0420: tap the cat with a mallet or hammer. if it rattles inside, cat's toast. they will plug up the exhaust pretty quickly. You can verify blockage by removing the upstream o2 sensor. The car will run in open loop mode, be very loud, and most importantly, work.
keep us posted.
Thanks, I was reading about where the ISCV/IACV is and how to remove it earlier today in the above posted manual. I've pulled and cleaned IACV's on Nissan engines and understand what you mean when you say they can get sludged/clogged up.DM-Slider said:1. The timing belt will not effect idle at all, unless it has jumped a tooth. The motor would run very very poorly.
2. Not in the Transmission. The solenids do not get stuck in the "on" position.
3. PO420 s emission which will not effect drivability.
The problem your car has is 100% the ISCV. At Toyota we used to replace these DAILY, they get filled with deposits from the egr. Even if there is some air flow, it usually is not enough to maintain proper idle.
If you want to save $200.00 then take the ISCV off the throttle body and give it a real good cleaning. Spraying carb cleaner down the whole in the TB on cleans a small portion of the valve.
1. Remove TB.
2. Clamp the 2 small coolant lines that run into and out of the ISCV and remove.
3. Use a set of needle nose plyers to remove the 4 philips head screws that keep the ISCV on the TB. Trust me on this,... you will strip the screws if you try using a screw driver to remove them, They are tight. DO NOT use an impact driver to remove them, that can damage the TPS.
4. Once you have the ISCV in hand, you will see where you need to clean.
5. The one thing you will need from toyota is the rubber ISCV gasket, its only a few dollars, but I have seen them leak when not replaced.
5. reassemble, remove the EFI fuse for 20 seconds, reinstall fuse and start the motor.
6. Make sure those 2 small coolant lines are not leaking, and check coolant level.