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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
!996 Camry Oil Pan replacement 5sfe 4 cylinder 2.2 engine
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UPDATE to my question below (and what I learned doing this job):

**There are no bolt holes in the rear end of the pan. You have to remove the rubber piece to get to it. I just tore it off with a screwdriver and didn't replace it.

**I never was able to get the exhaust system bolts loose-even after applying penetrating oil a half dozen times and using a long 1/2 inch drive breaker bar. and straining my... and I'm not a small person. I took the car to a shop and for a $20 lift fee they put it up on the lift and loosened the nuts with an impact wrench-they did not loosen easily. No way would I have ever gotten them loose with hand tools. I then drove it home and put the car on jack stands and finished the job.

**The part number on the pan I bought is Dorman # 264-305, the exhaust gaskets were Walker # 31374 and #31332. The pan sealant I used was Permatex #81878 ultra-copper (will not harm oxygen sensor) . Amazon was the cheapest place to buy the pan ($70)and the Dorman brand is good quality. Apply the oil pan gasket sealant in the manner shown at the link posted below by AliRazor.

If I was to do this again I'd use a fel-pro gasket instead of the sealant because it was tough getting the pan mounted, as I lay on my back in the driveway with limited clearance, and I smeared the sealant a couple times rubbing it against stuff as I tried to mount it.

USE JACK STANDS AND WHEEL BLOCKS!

Good luck!
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QUESTION: The Dorman brand engine oil pan I ordered does not have any bolt holes in the back end.

My Haynes manual shows an illustration of a pan with two holes in the back flange. The back end of the pan is covered by a piece of rubber so I can't see if there are two pan bolts there.

Can anyone tell me 1) Is this the right pan? 2) what do I do with that rubber "support" to allow me to mount the new pan without scraping off the sealant?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's helpful. The illustration at that link shows a pan like the new pan I have with the same shape and number of bolt holes. So I feel comfortable pulling the old one off. I'll figure out that "rubber" thing when I get the car up on jackstands where I can see what's going on.
 

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Just out of curiousity...was your oil pan leaking? Any reason you decided to repalce it?
...and do you know if this is a common problem on these generation camry's? losing oil through a leaking oil pan and oil pan gasket?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Cause of leaking

The cork pan gasket appears to be leaking a tiny bit (they get brittle) but not enough to spot the driveway. I can live with that. A leaking pan gasket is likely a common problem for any car this old with high mileage. The reason I'm changing the pan is that the oil drain plug is stripped out. I recently bought this car with a 164,000 miles on it. It's been well maintained and I'm sure the guy always had a shop do his oil changes. So figure at least 35 oil changes through the years and I'm not surprised to find it stripped. I have one of those expandable rubber plugs in it right now. The only way to fix it is replace the pan. I'm not replacing the pan with a gasket. I'm using Permatex Ultra Copper sealant. Toyota and my Haynes manual specify a sealant. If you replace your pan gasket that link in a response above has an illustration that shows how to apply it. If you prefer a gasket I suggest you check out Fel Pro brand. I think they may make one with sealant.
 

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if i remember correctly, there are bolts along the complete perimeter of the pan. the exhaust has to be loosened to remove that black rubber piece.
 
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are you positive you have the correct pan? is everything else (shape, bolt pattern) the exact same? where you would need to drill, is it perfectly flat or is there a slight rib/buldge for sealent like i there are between bolt holes on some pans?
 

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**I never was able to get the exhaust system bolts loose-even after applying penetrating oil a half dozen times and using a long 1/2 inch drive breaker bar. and straining my... and I'm not a small person. I took the car to a shop and for a $20 lift fee they put it up on the lift and loosened the nuts with an impact wrench-they did not loosen easily. No way would I have ever gotten them loose with hand tools. I then drove it home and put the car on jack stands and finished the job.
??? One mine didn't come loose either.

I broke it with a 1/2in breaker bar, though.
 

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3/8" 18" breaker bar with a 22" extension on a 14mm hex socket has broken all the down pipe bolts on my Camrys, but the stud backed off on one and required a Dorman replacement with the bigger (non-JIS) nuts. The original slot topped interference nuts are about $2 each from dealer and sometimes fail to lock when too old. Cork oil pan gaskets require more careful re-torquing than the seal and forget FIPG method, but both need a very clean sealing surface IME.
 

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Exhaust system

I am working on this procedure right now on my 1996. The original factory RTF finally gave way in a big way but not before reaching 223k miles. What a mess though. I could not get the three exhaust system nuts loose either and didn't want to risk an impact wrench but since I need to replace a broken exhaust manifold stud anyway, I thought I would try getting the pan off by dropping the exhaust manifold against the front cross frame of the chassis. Surprisingly the six exhaust manifold nuts came off very easily but you do have to remove the upper heat shield and a couple support brackets, all of which came apart easily too. This worked to get the pan out. It is important to remove the dip stick I found. Since RTF worked for so many miles, I think I will stick with it but I will try test fitting the pan several times to be sure I can get it on without messing up the RTF. My oil pan plug works perfectly after all these years but it could be that it survived because I've always changed my own oil. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
 

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I used Permatex 1 minute right stuff, sets up quick and holds the oil pan.
I just did the oil pan on my car today, due a bad oil pump.
I heated the nuts until they were cherry red, (2 mins per nut)
If you feel resistance, stop and heat again.
then use anti seize on exhaust nuts
 

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Black foam piece

John mentioned the black foam piece that he removed to get the pan out. I did the same thing and it basically disintegrated, which I expected it to after this many years. It had a portion of a part number on it but I couldn't make out the rest.

My question is what does this foam piece do and should I be digging deep to find out how to get a new one?
 
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