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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi,
I am new here and I say thanks to everyone who take the time to post the useful and good stuff here.

My sons' 1996 Camry station wagon with the v6 engine, and 213125 miles on it needed new drive shafts. ( the boots on the outboard joints had tore but the grease was still mostly in there ) We don't think they had been that way very long since we/he is good about keeping up on the maintenance on it.

He found them as he was putting new brake pads on.

I looked on this forum (and all over the internet actually ) and alot of folks said they had a terrible time getting the Half shafts out on the inboard cv joint side. Seeing these I was dreading doing this job and anticipating trouble.

NOT THE CASE ON THE V6 EVERYTHING IS BOLT ON.

Six socket head cap screws ( shcs ) bolt to a flange on the transmission side and the axle falls out easily.

The 30mm axle nut, two bolts on the strut, two nuts and one bolt on the ball joint and then the steering tie rod, and the six shcs on the inboard flange of the axle.

Also the axle assemblies are the same for both sides. Which I did not believe the guy at the parts store, so I at first just got one and then had to go back and get another.

We took the old ones out and packed the new ones with grease and re- assembled it all.

Not to say it was'nt a big job for us in my home garage, but it was not so bad of one either. With the both of us working together straight through I'd say it was about a 5 or six 6 hour job to do both sides.

We did have some troubles, like breaking a 24 inch 1/2 inch drive breaker bar trying to get the 30 mm axle nut off. The 217 foot pounds it needs to be torqued at seems like ok now tighten the piss out of it and tighten it some more.

GOOD LUCK TO EVERYONE. I hope this helps somebody.
 

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イリジウム
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13,510 Posts
One thing with the axle nut -- it needs to be properly tightened to help make sure the wheel bearing lasts the life it was designed. Otherwise without the proper preload they can be damaged.
 
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