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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi Guys,

I actually have a 2000 2.2 4 cyl. automatic Camry. But to my understanding the 1997-2001 4 cylinder models are all the same.

If you have changed the EGR valve you know that Toyota has located this this part very close to the firewall, and is a very tight squeeze to both remove it, and reinstall it. On the re-install of a new EGR valve there is a metal gasket that must be placed between the metal pipe and the bottom of the EGR valve. The problem I am having getting either of the two bolts to line up to where the screw will tighten, while keeping the lined up between the metal pipe and the EGR valve. By the way, I have tried doing this with the top of the EGR valve placed into the top bolts with no nuts on it, and with it without placing the top of the EGR valve seated onto the top bolts.

I am looking for any and all ideas that I night not be thinking of, and would appreciate any and all recommendations on how I might better do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I just seen some videos that showed that some mechanics disconnected the bottom of the EGR valve by reoming the compression nut at the bottom of the metal pipe that connects to the bottom portion of the EGR valve. Did they do this because it seems almost impossible to install the EGR valve if not doing it this way. By doing it this way?

I see that by doing it that way they can install the EGR valve to the metal pipe when it is taken off, then it could be run up the the EGR valve location to attach the 2 top nuts and hoses to finish the job.
 

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Do you have picture of the valve and pipe we can see. My '93 and my 98 had 2 different EGR pipe set ups, so I don't know what yours looks like. I had to replace egr valves on both of my Camry's. I remember some struggles but I got them on.
 

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I just seen some videos that showed that some mechanics disconnected the bottom of the EGR valve by reoming the compression nut at the bottom of the metal pipe that connects to the bottom portion of the EGR valve. Did they do this because it seems almost impossible to install the EGR valve if not doing it this way. By doing it this way?

I see that by doing it that way they can install the EGR valve to the metal pipe when it is taken off, then it could be run up the the EGR valve location to attach the 2 top nuts and hoses to finish the job.
That might be the way to go.
 

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That looks like the egr I had. Put a lot of PB blaster on the lower nut and install it first. The top can then be worked into place. Once you have the bottom nut on, don't hesitate to bend the hell out of the pipe to get the egr in place on the intake. If you take the egr off the pipe, you will have trouble getting it back together. Wrestle with it like your in the WWE.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I will begin to take another crack at breaking that compression nut on the bottom of that metal pipe in a few minutes, as I need to try rigging up a cheater bar to break it loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I finally got the EGR valve changed out tonight by way of removing the metal pipe. Then I installed the EGR valve to the pipe..Then I passed it down from the top, hooked the nut on the metal pipe and tightened it up, before installing the top screws on the EGR valve and hooking up the 2 small vacuum hoses. Once installed I resettled the check engine light by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery for a couple of minutes before hooking it back up.

Tomorrow will be the REAL TEST by taking it for a drive to see if the check engine light comes back on.

A BIG THANKS goes out to forum member Phil's Camry for being the only person in this forum to help me.
 

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Thank you. I had this problem on both of my Camry's. I hope you cleaned the metal pipe out real good. It gets clogged up. I soaked mine with Easy-Off oven cleaner. Cannot soak a clogged egr valve, as you will ruin the diaphram's inside the valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Actually my wife blow through it, and said it seemed very clean and not clogged up at all, so I did not do anything. I guess my mind was pretty clogged too, so I didn't think to clean it real good, with fighting with that 24mm compression nut while under the car feeling like a sardine with my big belly. lol

I drove the car this evening and went about 2 miles and the check engine light came back on, after resetting it late last night by way of removing the negative battery terminal. So later today I took it back to Auto Zone where I had the code read a couple of weeks ago leading the guy there to tell me that it was a code a 401 issue with his printout, and that the problem was a bad EGR valve. Then when he checked it today, it did not show any problem at all to spite the fact that the check engine light was on. So he tried it a second time with the same result of no problem. Then someone else wanted his code checked too, so he then tried another guys car, thinking that his code scanner was broken. However, it detected the other guys problem. So after the other guys car read a problem and knew it was not his code reader, he decided to go inside get a loaner tool of a better grade code reading scanner, and it said the same thing, no problem. So he told me that it might be because I did the reset by way of the car battery reset process, so he did a reset by way of his code reading scan meter. The Check Engine light went out by way of a reset from his meter, and I drove about 5 miles back home and it has not come back on. He got under the hood and he tapped on the Vacuum Solenoid Modulator, and told me that he thought that it might be bad, but for me to drive the car, and see if the Check Engine light comes back on, before replacing it.

Two quick questions:

1.) Do you know that by tapping on the Vacuum Solenoid Modulator you can determine if it is bad or not?

2.) Is it true that sometimes a car battery disconnect type of Check Engine reset, does not always work to clear everything out?
 

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Sometimes the vacuum solenoid modulator gets a piece of carbon stuck in it. Tapping on it and then blowing it out with compressed air will sometimes clean it out. Also you can take the top off the modulator and there is a felt filter inside that you can wash out. Sometimes it is dirty and clogged. Next time you have to take the 24 mm nut off, do it from the top of the car, not underneath. You need a 24 mm or 15/16 flare wrench. I made my own by buying a big 15/16 wrench and grinding the end off so it will fit over the long tube/pipe. It is much easier that way, than under the car. A lot of times it is a clogged tube/pipe and not the egr valve itself. Taking the battery cable off for 15 minutes should turn off the CEL.
 

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You could also be having a problem with the vacuum switching valve. Search the community posts about this. There is a lot of info about this and some fixes about relocating the valve to the firewall. The original valve is under the car and hard to get too. It will cause the OBD code 401 also.
 

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To show you what the vacuum switch valve looks like, google 4th generation toyota vsv. There are you tube videos of how to replace this.
 

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Search the stickies or type vsv relocation in the search community and lots of info on the vsv valve will come up. That is probably your problem now that you worked on your egr valve. The vsv's do go bad because they are subjected to a lot of heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I seen some videos on the other 2 things that might be bad that you mentioned. If it gets down to them I will seek what you gave me, to see if I think I can fix it myself.

I only disconnected the battery cable to reset the Check Engine light for about 3-4 minute.

By saying 15 minutes, could that have been to short of a time that could have possibly cause it to come back on, as it was not a longer enough period of time to fully clear the code?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well my wife is going to take the car tomorrow to work which round trip will be about 40 miles round trip. That should tell if nothing else is wrong with it, if the check engine light does not come back on. After all if that same exact code reader I got the 401 code reading with 2 weeks ago from Auto Zone, tester twice to not pickup any code at all, testing everything okay at that same Auto Zone store, it leads me to think that the problem was the EGR valve, and that the battery type reset, did not clear out everything in my computer. I guess we will see, as only time will tell.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Possibly, but I am guessing you have a bad vsv valve.
I looks like you are right Phil, about the vsv being the culpit and the check engine light came back on for my wife today.

Is there 2 "vsv" valves, one for the EGR and one for the evaporative emissions?

I seen someone say that there was 2 in the comment section of a video I watched on youtube.
 

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When I went to AutoZone for the same problem, they also gave me a printout suggesting me to replace the EGR Valve. Unfortunately, the EGR Valve is the most expensive but actually the least likely to be the problem.

P0401 and P0446 - Story Time with a Happy Ending

SOLVED! Still Getting P401 EGR Code. UGH!

You can decide how you want to replace the VSV and Vacuum Modulator (one after the other, but which order, or both at the same time). I'd recommend Dorman 911-609, and then Aisin VST006.

(Obviously you'd first do the obvious, like making sure there is vacuum at Q port of the Vacuum Modulator, the P and R ports to the air intake are not blocked, and when you took off the EGR pipe it was not clogged.)


Normally I'd go all OEM, but a genuine 25870-74090 from a dealer is/was so much more costly than Dorman 911-609. Yes, there are cheaper ones advertised as OEM, but I'd rather get a genuine name brand (e.g., Dorman) instead of risking getting a fake OEM.


There is a VSV for EVAP that I alluded to in the following post. But don't bother with it because it won't solve your problem. (That's a good video if you have not watched it.)

Acceleration under load sputter/hesitation, no CEL


Most people probably think it's harder to pull the EGR pipe than trying enough times to get the EGR Valve back on. If you ever need to reattach the EGR Valve again: a) I might have had to yank on my EGR pipe just a little, b) try turning the vertical screws with just the EGR Valve alone -- I seem to remember trying to turn in the wrong direction first because the vertical screws were/are upside down, and c) I didn't do this after getting it after enough tries, but maybe use a small screwdriver to help lining up the three pieces through the holes.


One more thing, I ended up getting an OBD2 reader off eBay after going to auto stores enough times. Even with prices going up due to the pandemic (I think mainly due to shipping cost going up because passenger planes are not flying), some ELM327 v1.5 are still less than $5 (Bluetooth to use with Android). Don't get v2.1.
Dissection of a counterfeit ELM327 OBDII Adapter from China
CVTz50 - How to buy proper ELM327 v1.5 OBD diagnostic interface
 
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