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Discussion Starter #21
Thank you AndyK88 for your long post with all of your helpful links. I however purchased earlier today a new EGR VSV and a Vacuum Modulator. I am thinking that Phils Camry night be right about the VSV being the problem, but I bought the Vacuum Modulator because it is 20 years old and it would be worthless to try to take off and clean it. I will check out those links you posted, in hopes that they will help me on this adventure.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Phils Camry,

I bought a new VSV that was not a original Toyota part. Do you think that was a bad move?

Also, Is there 2 "vsv" valves, one for the EGR and one for the evaporative emissions?

I seen someone say that there was 2 in the comment section of a video I watched on youtube.
 

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Autozone used to sell the actual vsv valve made by toyota. That aftermarket vsv valve should work. Only replace the EGR vsv valve under the car. You might want to relocate it to the firewall so it is easier to get to. When I did that, I used new vacuum line hoses and abandoned the originals. There should be a diagram on the car hood telling where the lines go to. We have strict emission laws here in California but no one noticed how I re-routed the vsv vacuum lines. There are videos and threads on this site of how to re-route your vsv.
 

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Thank you AndyK88 for your long post with all of your helpful links. I however purchased earlier today a new EGR VSV and a Vacuum Modulator. I am thinking that Phils Camry night be right about the VSV being the problem, but I bought the Vacuum Modulator because it is 20 years old and it would be worthless to try to take off and clean it. I will check out those links you posted, in hopes that they will help me on this adventure.
Well, you move fast. Maybe only this might be of help now:

2000 Camry CE 4cyl vsv switch replacement p0401 code


If it's not too late, I'd get OEM Aisin VST006. I first got a cheap one off eBay (it was still in the mid $20's), it lasted from 8/2018 to 4/2019. Well, hopefully AutoZone sells quality ones like Phil said.

2000 Camry CE 4cyl vsv switch replacement p0401 code


This is the VSV for EVAP. Ignore it for your P0401 problem.


Unless you need an emissions test soon, P0401 is usually not a pressing problem. But you can save so much money by looking around, e.g., Rockauto. I don't know about dealer prices in store, but it seems AutoZone is charging higher than dealer prices online.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Autozone used to sell the actual vsv valve made by toyota. That aftermarket vsv valve should work. Only replace the EGR vsv valve under the car. You might want to relocate it to the firewall so it is easier to get to. When I did that, I used new vacuum line hoses and abandoned the originals. There should be a diagram on the car hood telling where the lines go to. We have strict emission laws here in California but no one noticed how I re-routed the vsv vacuum lines. There are videos and threads on this site of how to re-route your vsv.
Would you know how to find this re-routed VSV vacuume line video?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
andyk88

I had seen another guy's video on changing that EVAP vacuum switching valve, but unfortunately this one is not my problem. :(
 

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look up you tube or search this forum. There are how to's on this.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Okay guys, here is what's going on now. First off the VSV been sitting in a USPS post office in New York were it was shipped from for 6 days now, and it suppose to had here arrive today. The Ebay seller has been a A-hole about this problem, so after today I can request a refund from ebay. Now I will have to buy another VSV and wait for it to get here.

Now to another issue! The aftermarket Modulator arrived on Monday. When I was taking off the original Toyota Modulator I accidentally broke off one of the hose fitting on the Modulator while trying to remove one of the 4 hoses. The car was running just fine with the old Modulator, but the Check Engine light keep coming back on after a reset, as we all here on this topic think it is because of a bad VSV. The issue at hand now is since I put the new aftermarket Modulator on the car the car is now missing badly, however after driving for more than 25 miles the Check Engine light has not come back on. With that said I have some questions.

1.) Could the Modulator have been the reason for the Check Engine light coming on all the time after resetting it, and it not be the VSV valve at all?

2.) Could the missing be because I used a aftermarket Modulator and my Toyota is not accepting it well?

3.) Should I try buying a used OEM modulator, or a GENUINE TOYOTA CAMRY OEM EGR VACUUM MODULATOR 25870-74090 for about $75.00, or even a Dorman 911-609 EGR Vacuum Solenoid Modelator, before going ahead and ordering another VSV valve because the Check Engine light has not come back on?
 

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Maybe do all of the above. The aftermarket modulator is probably okay. You might have a piece of carbon stuck in the hose. It does happen. I would blow the hoses out with compressed air. If that solves your CEL, don't buy the vsv valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
blow the hoses out with compressed air.
Do you mean by saying to blow the hoses out with compressed air, does that mean to use my air compressor and put the tip of the air gun on the end of the hose and shoot air into the hoses?

If that is what you mean, then what psi should I set my air compressor to, as to not cause issues with the hoses by sending to much air strength?
 

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Yes, put the tip in the hoses and blow. Psi shouldn't hurt your hoses. Probably 100-150 psi would dislodge anything. I had carbon bits in 2 of my egr hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Thanks! I will try that as my wife should be home from work with the car in the next hour.

I will post back the results.of doing this.

By the way, if it is carbon build up, why would it have ran good with the OME modulator and not this aftermarket Modulator?

My wife just got home and I have the car in the garage allowing it to cool down before I blow out the hoses line out with compressed air.

When she got home I drove it with it still running rough before parking in the garage to cool down, and when I am in cruse control, the RPM'S are moving up and down, when normally they would be in a steady position. This information might serve to help you knowing this.
 

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Changing the modulator could have loosened some debris that could clog a line. Try getting an OEM junkyard modulator and see if that works, also. Camry EGR systems are finicky. I always had to fool around with mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
There are no junkyards within 50 miles of me, and those junkyards are in a highly murderous area of New Orleans, so a OME junk yard one is not an option for me. So far 2 days of testing and still no Check Engine light. I did try blowing out the hoses for a second time and it seems to be running a bit better. I went on and ordered another new better quality modulator from a company andyk88 recommended named Dorman. It should get here by mid-week. I will post back after I install the new Dorman 911-609 modulator.
 

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Sounds good. Let us know how it comes out.
 
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