1997 camry rusted subframe
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You are wise to have caught that, and to repair it. Mine did the same a few years ago, and was lucky to find a Gen3 in a scrap yard with a good one to swap.
unfortunately, the '97-'01 frame has different spacing between the control arms at the center than the '92-'96 had
perhaps if you swapped the whole rear suspension it might possibly work? I've no idea if anyone has tried it before
unfortunately, the '97-'01 frame has different spacing between the control arms at the center than the '92-'96 had
perhaps if you swapped the whole rear suspension it might possibly work? I've no idea if anyone has tried it before
here are some used ones for sale:
carpartsdirectstore.com
1997-2001 Toyota Camry Solara Avalon Lexus ES300 Rear Subframe + Hardware | eBay
Find great deals for 1997-2001 Toyota Camry Solara Avalon Lexus ES300 Rear Subframe + Hardware. Shop with confidence on eBay!
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1997-2001 Toyota Camry ES300 Subframe Suspension Crossmember Cradle Rear Axle
Car Parts Direct Rear Suspension Sub Frame Cradle Application This Frame is 100% rust free. This item is used and in excellent condition. This frame has a 1 year warranty. REAR SUSPENSION SUB K FRAME CRADLE FITS: ALL 6 CYLINDER 1997-2001 TOYOTA CAMRY 1997-2001 LEXUS ES300 Part# 477-58750...
carpartsdirectstore.com
97-01 Camry Avalon ES300 REMAN Rear Subframe Crossmember Bolts Brackets Hardware | eBay
Find great deals for 97-01 Camry Avalon ES300 REMAN Rear Subframe Crossmember Bolts Brackets Hardware. Shop with confidence on eBay!
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I just had to buy a Gen 3 rear sub-assy to replace a rusted one. I realized after buying the member from a junkyard, that I could have used (I think) a Gen 4 sub-assy because I was going to be replacing all the lateral arms anyway. Oh well, too late.
The only difference I found was that the Gen 3 sub-assy has an exhaust hanger arm welded to it, so if you use a Gen 4 sub-assy, you either have to fashion and/or weld an arm on it, or you have to switch the hanger to the one like the Gen 4 has (different muffler, I think, or perhaps the hanger from the Gen 4 can be installed/welded on the Gen 3 muffler). What I'm saying is that it CAN be done, but you have to do some modification.
I started this job couple days ago.
Control arm bolts/nuts were totally pita, subframe bolts/nuts easy. 3/4 sway bar bushing bolts snapped and driver side long bolt head rounded.
I replace knuckle bushings also and i did mistake. I tried remove abs sensor out of knuckle. Boom. Its better to take socket off under seat.
Also parking brake cable bolts near knuckle snapped (aluminium housing).
I dont have car lift so i didnt get lateral arm bolt/nut open. Too tight and bad place to try. Maybe i take risk and cut nut off?
Couple pics. Baddest rust was here.
![296613]()
![296614]()
Control arm bolts/nuts were totally pita, subframe bolts/nuts easy. 3/4 sway bar bushing bolts snapped and driver side long bolt head rounded.
I replace knuckle bushings also and i did mistake. I tried remove abs sensor out of knuckle. Boom. Its better to take socket off under seat.
Also parking brake cable bolts near knuckle snapped (aluminium housing).
I dont have car lift so i didnt get lateral arm bolt/nut open. Too tight and bad place to try. Maybe i take risk and cut nut off?
Couple pics. Baddest rust was here.
Car has now 275k miles and its rust protected well at new.
I will replace all control arms too.
Exhaust hanger rubbers near subframe and near bumber off and exhaust drops and you get subframe off. No need to open rusty connection at exhaust pipe
I will replace all control arms too.
Exhaust hanger rubbers near subframe and near bumber off and exhaust drops and you get subframe off. No need to open rusty connection at exhaust pipe
Those "ears" near bushings were little bit crispy also.
Yeah i tooked hammer and mashed subframe all over under car, wasnt so bad so i decided to refresh old. Corona also made big increases to ebay shippings so it was easy to decide.
Spray rust primer, black metal paint with paintbrush, then underbody wax/oil spray and at last heavy underbody coat with bitumen. Also sprayed underbody wax/oil inside subframe.
Yeah i tooked hammer and mashed subframe all over under car, wasnt so bad so i decided to refresh old. Corona also made big increases to ebay shippings so it was easy to decide.
Spray rust primer, black metal paint with paintbrush, then underbody wax/oil spray and at last heavy underbody coat with bitumen. Also sprayed underbody wax/oil inside subframe.
No. Someone replaced the original nut with a wing-nut...unless you mean a castle nut https://www.alstapingtools.com/medi...ingtools.comimagesproductsdetailcastlenut.jpg
A castle nut goes onto a stud with a hole drilled in it. A cotter pin or safety wire goes between one set of castellations and through the hole to prevent the nut from loosening. https://www.milwaukeemodeltclub.com/Projects/CPImages/PinBent.JPG
A castle nut goes onto a stud with a hole drilled in it. A cotter pin or safety wire goes between one set of castellations and through the hole to prevent the nut from loosening. https://www.milwaukeemodeltclub.com/Projects/CPImages/PinBent.JPG
Ah - that's a trailing arm. The strut is the assembly that is vertical and contains a shock absorber and the suspension spring.
I have never seen a nut like the one pictured, but I'm going to assume it is some type of a lock nut. When daylight arrives here, I'll go out and look at the forward fitting (body side) of the trailing arms on our 01 Avalon (it has the same rear suspension design as your Camry).
I have never seen a nut like the one pictured, but I'm going to assume it is some type of a lock nut. When daylight arrives here, I'll go out and look at the forward fitting (body side) of the trailing arms on our 01 Avalon (it has the same rear suspension design as your Camry).
Hi Karpov,
The purpose of the "winged" nut is merely for assembly ease: there is no need to hold the nut while turning/torquing the bolt because that wing's movement is stopped by the bracket. You can use a normal nut if you cannot easily get the factory nut.
Just check to make sure you can get a wrench on the nut to hold it.
The purpose of the "winged" nut is merely for assembly ease: there is no need to hold the nut while turning/torquing the bolt because that wing's movement is stopped by the bracket. You can use a normal nut if you cannot easily get the factory nut.
Just check to make sure you can get a wrench on the nut to hold it.
Thanks. I have big shop manual (over 1200 pages) but its not very accurate. Is it okay to just but arms on and little bit tighten and when car is at wheels & ground (weight on) then specific torque?
When i remove subframe i left control arms attached in middle because i dont have lift. Is it okay to torque that side ready and install subframe? Because arms will move. I mean control arms not trailing arms.
When i remove subframe i left control arms attached in middle because i dont have lift. Is it okay to torque that side ready and install subframe? Because arms will move. I mean control arms not trailing arms.
the bolts that have to be torqued when it is on the ground are the following:
Trailing Arms (they are the fore/aft links), Front and rear bolt
Radius Arms (the ones going cross car): the center two bolts
The outboard radius arm ones can be torqued in the air (they are through heim joints so they'll rotate fine after torquing). The ones that must be torqued when on the ground are through rubber bushings, which will be clamped in that position and if they are torqued while the suspension is hanging down will be twisted too much on the road and wear out too fast.
One work around, if you only have a jack and not a work pit:
1) Measure the normal ride height (measure from the bottom of the rear knuckle to the flange on the rear subframe.
2) jack the car up as high as you can go. Support it by jack stands so the whole rear suspension hangs free.
3) Use the jack to raise up one side of the suspension until it is around its normal ride height that you measured in step 1. Have a friend sit in the car, or put a lot of ballast in the trunk, to help compress the spring on that side.
4) with the rear suspension held in its normal ride height, crawl underneath and torque those remaining bolts.
5) repeat on the other side
Trailing Arms (they are the fore/aft links), Front and rear bolt
Radius Arms (the ones going cross car): the center two bolts
The outboard radius arm ones can be torqued in the air (they are through heim joints so they'll rotate fine after torquing). The ones that must be torqued when on the ground are through rubber bushings, which will be clamped in that position and if they are torqued while the suspension is hanging down will be twisted too much on the road and wear out too fast.
One work around, if you only have a jack and not a work pit:
1) Measure the normal ride height (measure from the bottom of the rear knuckle to the flange on the rear subframe.
2) jack the car up as high as you can go. Support it by jack stands so the whole rear suspension hangs free.
3) Use the jack to raise up one side of the suspension until it is around its normal ride height that you measured in step 1. Have a friend sit in the car, or put a lot of ballast in the trunk, to help compress the spring on that side.
4) with the rear suspension held in its normal ride height, crawl underneath and torque those remaining bolts.
5) repeat on the other side
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