Did you end up putting together a DIY for this?
Am looking to do this mod to my 2000 model Caldina GT-T.
Any help would be gratefully appreciated!
Hi Steve, welcome to the forums! Unfortunately the photos aren't showing up as my PhotoBucket bandwidth has been exceeded and doesn't refresh until the 25th of this month. I have however re-uploaded the photos on another PhotoBucket account so they should be showing now.
I've written up a complete DIY for this particular modification. Please let me know if you have any questions.
I didn't take step by step pictures of the process as I was trying to get it done before it rained, but I can remember each and every step I took so I'll be explain it as best as I can.
The things you'll need are:
- 1x 90-degree 2.5" alloy intercooler pipe (600mm long)
- 1x 45-degree 2.5" alloy intercooler pipe (600mm long)
- 1x 90-degree silicone reducer (3" - 2.5")
- 1x 45-degree 2.5" silicone joiner
- 7x hose clamps
- Pod filter
Remove the battery:
First you'll need to remove the battery by taking off the battery clamp. There is one 10mm bolt on the radiator support beam and one 10mm nut on the battery clamp itself. Once it's off, simply remove the battery terminals and lift the battery out. You can now remove the battery tray underneath.
Remove the factory air resonator box:
The air resonator box is a large black box which muffles the noise of the intake. It sits inside the guard (fender) and needs to be removed in order to install your custom CAI. You'll need to jack the car up, remove the front passenger's side wheel, undo the various bolts to remove the plastic splash-tray, and undo the bolts holding in the factory resonator box. Once the bolts are removed, the air resonator box will slide out from underneath.
Remove the factory airbox and filter:
Unclip the hooks from the sides of the airbox, pull the air temperature sensor out (closest to the firewall), remove the rubber induction pipe leading to the turbo by undoing the hoseclamps, pull the plastic airfeed off leading to the pipe, and then lift the top of the airbox off. This will now expose the air filter. Take the filter out and you'll see some 10mm bolts underneath. Take these out and then wiggle the bottom section of the airbox away from the intake snorkel.
Remove the fusebox and intake snorkel:
In order to remove the intake snorkel that runs from behind the headlight to the factory airbox, you must remove the rectangular shaped fuse box. The fuse box is held in by two 10mm bolts, one on each side. Once the bolts are removed, slightly move the fusebox towards the engine, enough so that it lifts straight up and out of the way. You will now be able to have full access to the intake snorkel. The snorkel is held in by two plastic clips and one 10mm bolt closest to the airbox side. Simply undo the 10mm bolt and pull the plastic clips off. The snokel will lift out and give you plenty of room to route your alloy pipe.
Aligning and cutting of the alloy pipes:
You are now ready to align your pipes so that you can cut them to fit. Fortunately, if you use 600mm piping, you only have to make 3 cuts. The best thing to do is to lay the pipes in the engine bay and overlap the ends of each pipe so you know how much to cut off. Mark it with a marker pen to know where the cut should be. Do the same for the pipe that sits in the guard (fender) so that the pod filter doesn’t sit too low. The best way is to clamp a hose clamp to the piping so you can be sure that your cut is perfectly straight. Get your hacksaw and cut through the pipe, getting rid of any rough or uneven edges with a metal file afterwards. Once all of the pipes are cut to the right length, it will now be time to drill the hole for your intake air temperature sensor.
Drilling the hole for the intake air temperature sensor:
You will need to drill a hole in the alloy pipe for your intake air temperature sensor. Put a small mark on the pipe where the sensor will sit nicely and then place a piece of masking tape over the marking. This will ensure that the drill piece won’t slip while drilling and prevent scratchs to the pipe. Start with the smallest drill piece and work your way up. Once the hole is big enough, use a rotary tool (such as a Dremel) with a grinding stone to make the hole bigger. Alternatively you can just use a larger drill piece to make the hole larger or use a small metal file. Gradually make the hole larger so that it’s big enough to fit the rubber bung from your standard airbox. It pays to check the hole size every 20-seconds or so to make sure that you’re not making it too big (this is very important).
Installing the pipes:
Finally, you can now install the pipes and finish the installation. Put the silicone reducer on the end of the pipe that sits closest to the motor and slide it onto the snorkel of the turbo. Put a silicone joiner on the other end of this pipe and connect the second pipe. The best way to get the second pipe into the engine bay is to bolt the pod filter on first and slide it up from the bottom (splash tray side). Once secure, cut a hole in the plastic splash tray so that air can gush up there and into the pod filter. Secure the hose clamp, push the intake air temperature sensor in and you'll be ready to start the engine.
You've now made your own custom cold air intake for your Caldina. Enjoy the increased performance and the awesome flutter sound achieved from this modification