Toyota Nation Forum banner

41 - 60 of 60 Posts

·
Full Throttle
1993 Corolla SE Ltd
Joined
·
6,774 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
Thanks for the help....BUT.... i really dont wanna get into an argument over cativation. I like flutter......... I dont drive the car that often, surge is when the turbo is boosting above wastgate limit, For years we had no blow off valves on turbos, and i have NEVER heard of a turbo exploding even with guys boosting the hell out of the turbo and thrashing it day in day out.

My point is, i want to enjoy the car, not make it last so the next guy who buys it can enjoy it. Please, i do not mean to be offensive in any way, i just want to enjoy a car for once, i am usually that guy who is always way too careful and have had 5 awesome cars that i regret not doing certain things to.

With that in mind my friend, what do you know about getting a 2.5inch turbo back exhaust and tuning the computer?

i'll try and get onto those pics later this weekend.

Cheers and thanks heaps again for the help...... it was frustrating to do the job, but i love the results.
No problem. That's totally fine man. It's your car so do as you please :). I used to own a few 80's Mitsubishi Cordia GSR's (turbos) and they had no BOV from factory, so I agree that they're not absolutely necessary, but that was only a 1800cc SOHC 12v, so in regards to the 3S-GTE I'd say that Toyota wouldn't have put a factory BOV on for no reason, but as long as you're happy with not running one that's all that matters ;)

As for the exhaust, my brother installed a 3" exhaust on his last week (from the turbo back). He's going to get a couple of bigger resonators put in and a better muffler as it's quite loud, but it freed up a bit of performance. I wouldn't bother trying to tune the ECU, unless you go for a piggy back system or a standalone aftermarket ECU. The standard ECU will handle any minor mods that you through at it just fine :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Hmmm.... look, to be honest, i had no idea about computer mapping etc for performance. A friend of mine explained it to me. He has a EVO 9. He got the intake and exhaust done....and said that they havent tuned it yet. it went slightly harder than before the mods. Then he came back once it was tuned and the thing flew.

The way he explained it is that every mod requires tuning from the computer to release its full potential. Is that true do you think?

Also, i want to buy a boost gauge and boost controller this weekend. The gauge is merely to get a good reading, and the controller to get some more power. of course i may need to consider a FMIC if i plan on boosting it more.

Really i want the exhaust done first.
 

·
Full Throttle
1993 Corolla SE Ltd
Joined
·
6,774 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
Hmmm.... look, to be honest, i had no idea about computer mapping etc for performance. A friend of mine explained it to me. He has a EVO 9. He got the intake and exhaust done....and said that they havent tuned it yet. it went slightly harder than before the mods. Then he came back once it was tuned and the thing flew.

The way he explained it is that every mod requires tuning from the computer to release its full potential. Is that true do you think?

Also, i want to buy a boost gauge and boost controller this weekend. The gauge is merely to get a good reading, and the controller to get some more power. of course i may need to consider a FMIC if i plan on boosting it more.

Really i want the exhaust done first.
Honestly, I wouldn't bother. Unless the car starts running like crap (unlikely) then there won't be any issues. One thing you should do however is remove the negative battery for about 5-minutes to allow the ECU to reset. Apart from that, no other tuning is necessary, especially for a minor modification such as an aftermarket exhaust.

As for the boost controller, what psi are you thinking of winding it up to? These engines can handle higher boost, but things can get dangerous if you get to about 18psi without any supporting mods. Needless to say, install the boost gauge first and then install the boost controller, making sure you wind it one click at a time and take it for a road test to see what the pressure is set at.

The factory top mount intercooler does a pretty good job and can cope with a couple of extra psi, however depending on your driving style, the outside temperature and your boost pressure, it would definitely be worth looking into installing a FMIC as you mentioned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Honestly, I wouldn't bother. Unless the car starts running like crap (unlikely) then there won't be any issues. One thing you should do however is remove the negative battery for about 5-minutes to allow the ECU to reset. Apart from that, no other tuning is necessary, especially for a minor modification such as an aftermarket exhaust.

As for the boost controller, what psi are you thinking of winding it up to? These engines can handle higher boost, but things can get dangerous if you get to about 18psi without any supporting mods. Needless to say, install the boost gauge first and then install the boost controller, making sure you wind it one click at a time and take it for a road test to see what the pressure is set at.

The factory top mount intercooler does a pretty good job and can cope with a couple of extra psi, however depending on your driving style, the outside temperature and your boost pressure, it would definitely be worth looking into installing a FMIC as you mentioned.



YEP YEP...... for sure will be installing the gauge first.

Don't plan on going crazy with the boost setting, just a few here or there. What is the caldin'a standard boost setting?

Also, what are your personal thoughts on steel piping vs alloy piping for the intake?

Will keep you posted on results and or problems:rolleyes:

Thanks again buddy. You in melbourne by any chance? I can't seem to find anyone else with these cars that wanna catch up.
 

·
Full Throttle
1993 Corolla SE Ltd
Joined
·
6,774 Posts
Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
YEP YEP...... for sure will be installing the gauge first.

Don't plan on going crazy with the boost setting, just a few here or there. What is the caldin'a standard boost setting?

Also, what are your personal thoughts on steel piping vs alloy piping for the intake?

Will keep you posted on results and or problems:rolleyes:

Thanks again buddy. You in melbourne by any chance? I can't seem to find anyone else with these cars that wanna catch up.
The standard boost setting for the GT-T is usually 10-12psi. Once you install your exhaust you may notice it rise a psi or two, so personally I'd hold off on the boost controller until you've done that side of things. I wouldn't go for any higher than 14psi with the factory ECU. Some people have wound theirs up to 20psi and not experienced problems, whereas others have gone to 16psi and put a piston through the block. So the 'safe' level is about 14psi in my opinion. My brother's one can probably do about 18psi safely as he is using the Mine's ECU, which has better fuel mapping. For information's sake, the factory boost/fuel cut on the GT-T is 23psi, but you'd be silly to go that high :lol:

This is a little off-topic, but on my old Cordia GSR's there used to be a single yellow wire in the engine bay which you could cut to eliminate boost/fuel cut. On top of that, they also came with an adjustable wastegate actuator from factory, so by screwing it in a little you could substantially alter the boost. It's like they wanted you to do it or something :lol:

Anyway, one day, a friend of mine sneakily cut the yellow wire without me knowing. When I took it for a drive I noticed it was boosting remarkably high (about 20psi). I was young and stupid back then, so naturally I thought it was a lot of fun to have that much power, and didn't really care too much about the consequences down the track. Since I was in that frame of mind, we decided to adjust the wastegate actuator to the max setting, which brought the boost level in excess of 25psi. It was so high that it literally went back around to the 0 on the boost gauge, so it could have been 30+psi for all I knew. Needless to say, the engine and turbo only lasted a couple of months before it started billowing smoke like crazy. Admittedly, it was a lot of fun, but looking back now it was a stupid thing to do, and just because the I had the ability to up the boost didn't mean I should have. The moral of the story is that all engines have their limit, and manufacturers often set this limit higher than what the engine can really handle, so by upping the boost 'just because you can' will typically result in a car on jack stands and a large bill to pay.

In regards to the piping, alloy is better in my opinion, as it's lighter, dissipates heat better and you won't have to worry about rust. Steel is stronger however, so if your car is very low to the ground it won't get damaged as easily as alloy will.

Nah I don't live in Aussie sorry. Born and bred here in Auckland, New Zealand. Unfortunately there aren't any dedicated Caldina clubs/forums that I know of, but feel free to check out ToySpeed.org.nz. There's a bunch of Caldina owners on there and a few Aussies onboard :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Thanks for that info.... interesting story. I guess it proves how maturity really helps in the long run. I myself thrashed my old VL so hard that it ended up in the graveyard.... but that was the YOUNG me.

nyways... i attemted to install the boost gauge today. Frustrating.

i got the vacumn line through the firewall etc. But nothing shows on the gauge. I haven't hooked up the electrical as i think i have a faulty gauge. It vibrates when boost kicks in as if a screw or something is loose.

I just need any vacumn line right?
 

·
Full Throttle
1993 Corolla SE Ltd
Joined
·
6,774 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
Thanks for that info.... interesting story. I guess it proves how maturity really helps in the long run. I myself thrashed my old VL so hard that it ended up in the graveyard.... but that was the YOUNG me.

nyways... i attemted to install the boost gauge today. Frustrating.

i got the vacumn line through the firewall etc. But nothing shows on the gauge. I haven't hooked up the electrical as i think i have a faulty gauge. It vibrates when boost kicks in as if a screw or something is loose.

I just need any vacumn line right?
Yep, all you require is a good vacuum source, however the safest place to use is the line for the BOV (should just be sitting there with a bung in it since you're not running a BOV anymore). As long as the gauge is getting vacuum it should work. Make sure there are no kinks in the hose that you ran through the firewall as this will cause the gauge to sit on 0 (happened to my brother's one once). I'd suggest directly hooking up the gauge to the BOV vacuum line and it if it still doesn't work then it is most definitely faulty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
well it was definately faulty. the gaug is fine now. BUT...............

I noticed as soon as we ran the line for the gauge, the idle isn't good. You remember the larger sized vacumn ose that we took out of the airbox and put a stocking on? that has less suction power now.

I took off the t piece and it worked fine. The gauge reads vacumn etc when hooked up. But the car has lost power and the gauge is reading 6psi at best. if my line is kinked, it couldn't possible cause this idle problem could it?
 

·
Full Throttle
1993 Corolla SE Ltd
Joined
·
6,774 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
well it was definately faulty. the gaug is fine now. BUT...............

I noticed as soon as we ran the line for the gauge, the idle isn't good. You remember the larger sized vacumn ose that we took out of the airbox and put a stocking on? that has less suction power now.

I took off the t piece and it worked fine. The gauge reads vacumn etc when hooked up. But the car has lost power and the gauge is reading 6psi at best. if my line is kinked, it couldn't possible cause this idle problem could it?
Hmm, sounds like you've got a vacuum leak. Which vacuum line have you hooked up the boost gauge to? If you use the line originally used by the BOV you shouldn't require a t piece at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Ok, idle has some how managed to fix itself and sit a lot better. it sits exactly on the same RPM as it use to.

i did have it on the BOV line originally but thought that was the cause...... it now sits on that line but straight off the engine. Just for the record it was doing the same thing no mater where i put the t pice. even remoing the t piece and gauge, it still seems to be a little less powered.

When i let off throttle, it doesn't flutter straight away anymore. The difference is minute but enough for me to notice it. Also, it feels as though boost kicks in slightly later, like when i had the air box on and with less mmmff if you know what i mean.

When Hammering the car, it reads the following on the boost gauge.
1st gear = 11psi
2nd gear = 12psi
3rd gear = 13psi

So although the boost gauge and boost may be ok, i would bet a whole lot of money it be producing less kW on a dyno right now than it did last week.

I don't know what to do. i have checked all my lines etc. would a vacumn leak cause this?
 

·
Full Throttle
1993 Corolla SE Ltd
Joined
·
6,774 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
Good to hear that your idle has returned to normal. As for the lack of power, you may have a boost leak. Make sure that all of the hose clamps on the silicone joiners are as tight as possible, and that the pipes are securely sitting inside the joiners. Fitting a CAI will cause you to lose a small amount of low end power as the air has to travel further before reaching the turbo due to the length of the piping, but you'll gain more mid-range and top end power. On my brother's Caldina he noticed the turbo was more responsive throughout the power band and the top end 'pull' increased. If yours seems like it's down on power then a leak is certainly possible. A cold air intake will always yield more power over the factory air box, unless of course the filter is blocked.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
ok i can't even begin to explain the situations i have had.

all i can say is that i need to fix one more thing. before i show off some pics and vids to you. it is flying now and sounds awesome.

The tiptronic system is still playing up. In auto the car runs fine. as soon as u go to manual tiptronic, it goes into lock up in 3rd and 4th gear and wont jump out of lock up. i have been to the auto transmission guys and they have tried a few things...... No charge....Good guys..... They reffered me to their Auto elec who has offered to snip out the lock up wire from the wiring in the auto transmission completely. Quick and easy fix. i am happy to have no lock up as i am a hard driver anyways. might actually do it some good.

The problem is, they have asked me to find the wiring diagram to save costs, and because they arent good with import diagrams. Can anyone get me the wiring diagram for the auto transmission on my 1998 ST215W Caldina GT-T.

Next step is dump pipe and exhaust
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
A few weeks ago I made and installed a custom cold air intake for my brother's 1998 Caldina GT-T. It made a noticeable difference in performance and now makes an awesome fluttering noise when easing off the throttle. I'd recommend it to everyone with a 3S-GTE engine. He originally had a K&N panel filter in the stock airbox but this does a much better job. There also doesn't seem to be any hesitation/lag from the turbo anymore after this install.

The parts I used were:

* 1x 90-degree 2.5" alloy pipe (600mm long)
* 1x 45-degree 2.5" alloy pipe (600mm long)
* 1x 90-degree silicone reduced (3" to 2.5")
* 1x 45-degree silicone joiner (2.5" to 2.5")
* 7x hose clamps
* Simota pod filter

If anyone wants me to write a DIY just let me know. Here are some photos (it was hard to take a photo of where the pod filter sits under the front bumper, but it's protected from the rain and gets excellent airflow due to the round hole cut in the plastic splash tray) -










hey mate just done bov and intake to my car what did you do to the vacume line that went to the airbox and the other one near the turbo that went into the intake i have came to a speed bump
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
vacum lines to standed intake

i need help on where to put the vacume line that went to the air box beside the standed bov. but now ive put a hks one in and a bung in where the standed bov was so what do i do with the tube that left still suckin air when now its got no presure to suck up and when i block it my car stalls. And what to do with the other one closer down to the turbo. help would make my week not having my caldina has been getin me down .... lolz
 

·
Full Throttle
1993 Corolla SE Ltd
Joined
·
6,774 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
i need help on where to put the vacume line that went to the air box beside the standed bov. but now ive put a hks one in and a bung in where the standed bov was so what do i do with the tube that left still suckin air when now its got no presure to suck up and when i block it my car stalls. And what to do with the other one closer down to the turbo. help would make my week not having my caldina has been getin me down .... lolz
You should only have two hoses leading to the factory airbox - One small one which is the vacuum source for the stock BOV and one larger one that goes to the bottom of the throttle body. Use the smaller one for your aftermarket BOV and put a screen (such as a stocking) over the larger one, allowing it to sit in the engine bay. You don't need the screen, but it will prevent anything getting sucked in there.
 

·
Caldina GT-T
Caldina GTT
Joined
·
1 Posts
Caldina GTT

Hi there,

I just bought a 1997 Caldina GTT. Its got a fully standard 3SGTE engine with a manual gearbox. Im wanting to maybe do this CAI to it.. how much did it cost for all the pipeing etc? im living in Wellington, New Zealand.

P.S Also very new to this site haha.
 

·
Registered
Toyota Caldina GT-T
Joined
·
3 Posts
That looks very nice. I'm planning to do the same to my Caldina so any tips on how to do it is welcome. I have Apexi filter in engine bay and there's not much cold air.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hey Kiwi-Corolla

i am trying to do the same thing with my caldina gtt 1997.
I am just not sure that what you did with the black hoses which connects to factory intake pipe and the box.
I am not talking about the air temp sensor. There is one hose which connects with the factory intake pipe near the turbo. And the other one to the intake box. Should I just block those? Or what exactly needs to be done.
Thanks in advance.
 
41 - 60 of 60 Posts
Top