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The sensor I ordered for A/F finally came in and no more check engine light. So now that the major thing is fixed it's time for me to start looking at the other issues.

The ignition cylinder was completely worn. I had to fight with the key, pull it out flip it, fight with it just to get started. So I ordered a new ignition and it works like a charm. However, now the car thinks there is a key in the ignition when off and I cannot lock the doors. I have to go to the passenger door and manually lock it. Drivers door lock was replaced by previous owner, its on my list of things to fix. How would I go about fixing this?

The drivers side door outside lock cannot turn to the unlock position, only the unlock. Passenger door can turn both ways. Previous owner replaced both so I have 2 keys, one for the door and one for the ignition. I do not have a key to the trunk. In your opinion, should I replace both doors and the trunk with a new lock cylinder and have my ignition key grounded to fit them as well or should I just ignore it and install keyless entry. Does this car have keyless entry and just needs a new key since the previous owner didn't give me a fob?

Both headlights are too far upward. How do I aim them? Will it be the same for aftermarket lights as well? Anyone know a good place to get clear lens and not the ones with the ribs inside?

This car has about 330k miles on it. The suspension is shot at this point. I was thinking of lowering the car a small amount. Not on coilovers, on springs. Any suggestions on some shocks and springs for a maybe 1 to 1.5 inch drop?

Which relay is the flasher relay? I am going to replace all lights with LED equivalent (Except headlights) and do not want hyper flashing. I already have a bunch of flasher modules I just need to know which one it is.

Sometimes the light on the AC stays on even if the AC itself is off. What could be causing this?

Where is the cabin air filter if there is one? Previous owner had a dog and let them piss in the back. I already replaced the carpet and did a quick cleaning on the seats. Going to get the interior detailed at a later date. There was a puddle of urine on the passenger side back foot well. That is disgusting. Previous owner really didn't care about this car at all.

Is there a good front strut bar for this car? What about rear sway bar? Are they worth adding in? I am used to sporty cars so even though this car handles fairly well, especially with worn shocks, I feel it could use a little more.

Best place to put a backup camera? One you have to drill for. I'm thinking replacing the lock cylinder with it but not sure yet.

I have no interest in turning this into some kind of sleeper or anything. At this point, I'm going for looks and functionality over speed. So this time around I actually want to fix the small squabbles. I am adding in a small 10 inch sub, back up camera, and a Pioneer AVH-291BT head unit. Maybe I'll start a build thread.

I know it's a lot and normally I would use the search function for most of this but since TN changed their layout the function is kinda...bad.
 

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Almost 1/2 Million Miles!
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Wow! I hope you got a super deal on this 1998?

I am going to try to help, don't know if the following would be of any help.....

Let's start with the Cabin Air Filter Question. No, 1998 does not have one.

Ignition Switch and Door Locks:

@330K miles I would concentrate on normal maintenance issues, assuming they have not already done instead of trying to mod this vehicle to be lowered 1 - 1.5 inches lower. I would check all Coolant Hoses for soft spots and replace, Automatic Transmission service, Timing Belt, Tune-up etc....etc.....etc...just my recommendation.

Struts: My 1992 Camry has over 532,000 original miles and I as well bought it used at 15,823 miles. I have always used Quick Struts by Monroe and they have served my Camry well. It is a harder ride at first and certainly high look so, I am sure you may not like it. For the $$ and safety in controlling such a heavy Camry of this Generation, I would look into them. I believe Brakes, Steering and Suspension are the critical control systems on any car.

Here's one recommendation at a super deal from a super supplier, assuming you have the 5S-FE Engine:

I bid you the best in your future repairs and mods.
 

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For struts, I'm not a big fan of those lesser-known brands. Products from China are hit or miss (yes, some Chinese products are good, but it's a roll of the dice). I'd go KYB or most of the usual brands you've heard about. I'd avoid brands that tend to be on E-bay. A lot of these "brands" are actually the same struts made in the same Chinese factories and those factories sell the unbranded/unlabeled struts to many companies, each of which puts their own brand sticker on the strut, but it's all the same junk.
 

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RE: "HIT or MISS BRANDS"

A1 Auto is a very good supplier and there is really nothing wrong with the recommendation I posted above in my previous post about replacing to OEM type and not any enhanced Strut Product like KYB.

Sure, I am sure the Original Poster will consider spending TWICE the $$$ amount for this 1998 Camry with over 330K miles! If so, more power to him, however, my post still stands as a viable replacement from a very well known Supplier such as A1 Auto.

For the KYB, at least for the rears:

And for those that LOVE ROCK AUTO they have all sorts for all sorts of Pocket Book Budget or not at;
 

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Almost 1/2 Million Miles!
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I called A1 AUTO and they told me that the "TRQ" Brand is their in-house brand which is made at China or Japan. They have a Life-Time warranty and if you ever have any issues they will send a new ones.

Additionally, I noticed that AMAZON who is very strict on customer satisfaction and product quality has them listed.
https://www.amazon.com/Front-Shock-Struts-Springs-Solara/dp/B0748LWLLV/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Toyota|76&Model=Camry|1011&Year=1998|1998&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive#customerReviews
 

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Almost 1/2 Million Miles!
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RE: eBay Ordering

Okay, ordering from eBay is perhaps the best for the buyer as the buyer has all kinds of rights and product quality affirmation. I ordered my Lower Control Arms for my 1987 BMW 325i Convertible from A1 Auto's eBay store and they were exactly OEM quality and I saved TONS of $$$ going this route.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wow! I hope you got a super deal on this 1998?

I am going to try to help, don't know if the following would be of any help.....

Let's start with the Cabin Air Filter Question. No, 1998 does not have one.

Ignition Switch and Door Locks:

@330K miles I would concentrate on normal maintenance issues, assuming they have not already done instead of trying to mod this vehicle to be lowered 1 - 1.5 inches lower. I would check all Coolant Hoses for soft spots and replace, Automatic Transmission service, Timing Belt, Tune-up etc....etc.....etc...just my recommendation.

Struts: My 1992 Camry has over 532,000 original miles and I as well bought it used at 15,823 miles. I have always used Quick Struts by Monroe and they have served my Camry well. It is a harder ride at first and certainly high look so, I am sure you may not like it. For the $$ and safety in controlling such a heavy Camry of this Generation, I would look into them. I believe Brakes, Steering and Suspension are the critical control systems on any car.

Here's one recommendation at a super deal from a super supplier, assuming you have the 5S-FE Engine:

I bid you the best in your future repairs and mods.
No cabin air filter. Good, I thought I was a little crazy when I looked at the HVAC and didn't see a slot for one. But I have seen some manufacturers put them behind the dash before the piping splits. Thank you.

Ironically I had found that ignition thread yesterday and am going to take it apart again later today.

Normal maintenance is easy peasy. I'm a mechanic by trade so most of that is already on its way. I already have new water pump, belt, distributer, spark plug wires, plugs, cylinder gasket with spark plug gaskets on the way. Thank you for the concern on it though. Even if the engine dies on me, they are so cheap to get a new one installed. The trans is in great condition.

OEM style struts are fine but usually when lowering there are some struts that handle it better. OEM is usually, not always, designed to be at the specific height that OEM springs allow. Lowering on OEM struts usually wears them out prematurely, thats why I was wondering if anyone had suggestions on good struts for it. KYB is a reputable brand and I will look into them. Maybe I can get a set from the Celica to fit as they have some that are adjustable dampening but they are cut and replace style instead.

Thank you very much for the assistance.

For struts, I'm not a big fan of those lesser-known brands. Products from China are hit or miss (yes, some Chinese products are good, but it's a roll of the dice). I'd go KYB or most of the usual brands you've heard about. I'd avoid brands that tend to be on E-bay. A lot of these "brands" are actually the same struts made in the same Chinese factories and those factories sell the unbranded/unlabeled struts to many companies, each of which puts their own brand sticker on the strut, but it's all the same junk.
KYB seems to be the choice. I also do not trust no name and lesser name struts, that's why I asked here first. I didn't want to get crap struts.

Sure, I am sure the Original Poster will consider spending TWICE the $$$ amount for this 1998 Camry with over 330K miles! If so, more power to him, however, my post still stands as a viable replacement from a very well known Supplier such as A1 Auto.
I come from the wonderful world of sports cars. I have no issues spending more on getting stuff for the car than what I paid for it. Heck, one of my projects is a 1989 Celica I got for $500. The body and interior are in pristine condition but the engine and suspension are terrible. And yet here I am slowly amassing things to swap in another 3sfe, build it, and turbo it. Mostly because everyone else just drops in a 3sgte. I want to be different. By the time I am done with this car, I will have spent a heck of a lot more than $500 haha.



Thank you for the assistance thus far. I am considering starting a build thread for this but I have yet to name it. Every car I own and have owned have had names.
 

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AC turns on when the Defost setting is used, it is to dry the air when the windows fog up.

If it is too cold outside, then the AC does not run with the Defrost. Sometimes it is so cold where I am, that the AC just would not turn on.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
AC turns on when the Defost setting is used, it is to dry the air when the windows fog up.

If it is too cold outside, then the AC does not run with the Defrost. Sometimes it is so cold where I am, that the AC just would not turn on.
I am not using the defrost at all. I have it set to cool air. No rear defrost on either. The light just comes on for the AC on its own.
 
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