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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

As the title states, I have a 1999 camry, 4 cylinder 2.2l. For a while now, the car has been doing this thing where it bucks/jerks when in low gears. It only does this when I step abruptly on the gas, or abruptly let it go. It is especially noticeable when the engine is cold. I haven't been having any real problems with the car. It idles fine, and the engine sounds fine, but this little problem is kind of irritating.

Like I said, when I'm traveling at higher speeds it's not a problem. Also, after the car's warmed up it's not as noticeable (but you can still tell it's there). Has anyone experienced a problem like this, or have any idea what it might be?

I appreciate any and all help.
 

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Check your air flow sensor and engine coolant temperature sensor. These could be sending a bad signal to the computer. It might also be a dirty EGR system and/or throttle body. Do checks and cleaning first before buying replacement parts (unless your time is more expensive than the parts I guess). I would also go with toyocam99 and check the resistance of your wires. There are probably some static tests that you can do on the coils also (but they should work better cold than hot).

Kep
 

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I had that exact same symptom. It turned out to be a cracked main air intake hose. Check yours
carefully for cracks or other damage that can cause air leaks.


CJ
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you all for your suggestions, I'm definitely going to look into all those possibilities. I also wanted to mention 1 more factor that I probably should have included in my original description - it's a 5 speed. I don't know if that changes anyone's interpretation.
 

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Sorry about necro-bumping. I have exactly same issue with my 1999 Camry (Europe, 2.2 5-speed), and I am really interested if this was ever solved.

I've replaced spark plugs, TPS and air filter with no real change. Spark plug wires seemed to be pretty new (from 2016) so I don't think those are the issue. Probably trying to clean EGR next.
 

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Your transmission mount could be shot. Your front torque strut mount could be broken. Your front engine mount could be worn out.

Your transmissions shift cable / kickdown cable could need adjustment.

Your transmission fluid could be low, or need replacing.

Your speedometer might be having a problem. (I have this issue). Whether the actual speed sensor, or just a fried component in the speedometer such as the 4mhz ceramic resonator. This causes rough shifting / transmission slipping.
 

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Most often misfiring on acceleration, if that's what you are describing, is caused by faulty ignition system components. If those 2016 spark plug wires are a cheap aftermarket wire, I have seen those cause problems in as little as 1 year or as little as 10,000 miles. In my mind they would be suspect based on everything else you have done. If not the plug wires, I would next suspect the coils. If not ignition system related, I would next check for the proper fuel pressure from the fuel pump. You can rig up something to check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail or ask a professional to do that for you.

Mike
 

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Hey thanks for replies!

Tried to clean EGR today, it was pretty clean and did not have much effect.

The spark plug wires are Yazaki brand, which and they seem to be good quality (even OEM?) for cars made in Japan. Their resistances were around 10 kohm which should be ok (isn't over 25 kohm bad?).

I also measured resistances of ignition coils packs. I don't know about the order of the terminals but managed to get out following resistances (all other were unlimited). See the attached image.

Coil pack 2/3:
1<->3 0.35 kohm
1<->4 80 kohm
3<->4 80 kohm

Coil pack 1/4:
1<->3 0.35 kohm
1<->4 68 kohm
3<->4 68 kohm

I read somewhere that normal resistance should be something like 10-15 kohms, can my coils be bad? As mentioned car is 1999, and has only bit over 200 000 km ~ 130 000 miles driven.

Other point I noticed is that the problem occurs only in range of 2000-3000 rpm, and never on constant speed though. Most noticeable it is if I accelerate and shift to next gear at somewhere 3500 rpm when on the next gear the rpm is in that range. If I shift gear for example at 5000 rpm, I cannot feel any jerking or hesitation. Still planning to replace fuel filter (I have no idea when it has been replaced), but I am kind out of ideas...
 

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Ever find the problem?
Not yet. Replaced the fuel filter and put some STP Complete Fuel System Cleaner into tank.
Actually I don't think its ignition related. Weather is getting colder and more dry all the time here in Europe and ignition should work better in cold and dry.

Measured all my fuel injectors' resistances and they all were same 13.3 ohms, which should be fine I think. Now I am turning to think that the problem might be my oxygen sensor (problem is more strong with cold engine). Measured resistance between the oxygen sensor's heater wires and got 9 megaohms which indicates at least the heater is broken...
 

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It sucks you're not getting any codes for this. The only things I can think of is...

Do you top off your gas tank a lot? My 98 Corolla would buck and jerk if I over filled the tank. The gas would travel down the vent tube and clog the VSV. And I never got a trouble code.

Did you say you cleaned the EGR?

Did you spray carb cleaner on the hoses to look for a vacuum leak?

I know you know this, but replace 02 sensors with exact same ones.

Keep us posted on progress.
 

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It sucks you're not getting any codes for this. The only things I can think of is...

Do you top off your gas tank a lot? My 98 Corolla would buck and jerk if I over filled the tank. The gas would travel down the vent tube and clog the VSV. And I never got a trouble code.

Did you say you cleaned the EGR?

Did you spray carb cleaner on the hoses to look for a vacuum leak?

I know you know this, but replace 02 sensors with exact same ones.

Keep us posted on progress.
Thanks for the comments!

Yes I top off my gas tank always. You think not filling it totally could probably change something? I should try that. Anyway I have had this car only for couple of months now, so no idea how before that.

Yes, I cleaned EGR and it did not look too bad. I guess it was either cleaned or replaced recently.

I did not try to find vacuum leaks other than by visually inspecting all possible hoses. I definitely should try that (I have leftover throttle body cleaner spray because tried to clean that too).

I have read that too that there is no point risking with non-OEM oxygen sensor. Will be looking of OEM Denso if going to replace. Some people even told when they unplugged the oxygen sensor the car started working better if the problem was there. I will try that too but first I will drive this tank with the system cleaner thing in it to see if it helps. This car anyway has only a single upstream sensor, not two like some models.
 

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stop at the click when filling or you'll replace an expensive evap canister soon. also, make the cap click 2 times when closing it or you'll throw an evap small leak detected code.
tony
 

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Tried to disconnect the oxygen sensor. Felt absolutely no difference with it unplugged. Is this normal? Drove for sometime and my engine light did not light up either. Weird, isn't it?
 

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Tried to disconnect the oxygen sensor. Felt absolutely no difference with it unplugged. Is this normal? Drove for sometime and my engine light did not light up either. Weird, isn't it?
Is the bulb burnt out? It should light up when you turn the key to the ON position without starting it. Then go out shortly after you start the motor.
 

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Have you ran the engine at night or in an unlit garage with the hood up and looked for arcing. A squirt bottle filled with water turned down to a fine mist will illuminate arcing quite effectively. I still think you have an ignition problem. I'd say it was your distributor if you had one. What do your spark plugs look like?
 

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Is the bulb burnt out? It should light up when you turn the key to the ON position without starting it. Then go out shortly after you start the motor.
Yes the bulb works. Actually checked the codes using jumper wire in diagnostics connector and got the 21 = oxygen sensor. Probably the light would appear after running longer without the sensor. I still wonder is it normal that I can't feel any difference with and without oxygen sensor?

Have you ran the engine at night or in an unlit garage with the hood up and looked for arcing. A squirt bottle filled with water turned down to a fine mist will illuminate arcing quite effectively. I still think you have an ignition problem. I'd say it was your distributor if you had one. What do your spark plugs look like?
I actually tried to spot arching in dark, didn't use the water though. I've replaced the spark plugs and the wires seem to be OEM quality and only 2 years old.
Anyway I think the ignition should work better with cold engine and cold weather. Problem is much less noticeable as warm than cold...

I've to try to spot the vacuum leaks. The complete system cleaner which I added to tank does not seem to have any effect, tank is getting empty and can't feel any difference...
 
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