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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

New to this forum, and not the most car savvy person, so please bear with me. I have a 1999 Camry, 4 cyl, automatic trans, about 205,000 miles. It's having some issues.

Last week, I got 4 new tires, balance and alignment. Drove it for 7 days, no problems. A couple of days ago, I noticed the car was idling rougher than usual when in gear (D or R). When in Park or Neutral it may be a little rougher, but not nearly as pronounced as when in gear.

Along with this, when I accelerate from a stop, the car doesn't seem to want to go, and there's a vibration in the gas pedal at about 1800-2400 rpm. I can slow and steady get it to shift into gear at about 3000 rpm but the shift is noticeably harder than before. Once I'm into that second gear, shifting and the gas pedal seem to behave normally.

I am not getting a Check Engine light, but I am wondering if this might be something with my spark plugs/wires. I have a pretty bad oil leak from the valve cover, I know I need to replace the gasket at the least. (Checked oil/trans/coolant levels - all OK.)

A little history, I bought the car about 3 years ago, maybe add 6,000 miles a year, and this is the first trouble I am having with it. I have never had anything other than oil changes done to it.

Anyway, I am open to y'all's suggestions/input.

Thanks!
 

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03 CAMRY XLE
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3,244 Posts
... Could be EGR valve related. When you accelerate, or start the engine ... one or two other cases ... the EGR piston is supposed to close and keep exhaust gases from going into the throttle body.

The EGR piston is situated in the exhaust gas stream and is subject to getting stuck, stiff, or not moving freely ... for one reason or another.

First just check the vacuum hoses associated with the EGR, the vacuum modulator, and the EGR vacuum switching valves. Maybe something got knocked loose. Make sure the hose ends are snug ... not loose and letting vacuum escape.

Also, you might want to stop by an auto parts store and ask for a code scan. Even though you don't have a check engine light showing, there could possibly be a trouble code stored in the ECU memory.

Take a cursory look around the engine compartment ... see if there are any obvious loose vacuum lines ...something that could have come loose could be the cause of your problem. If you have a can of starter fluid, you can carefully (keep away from sparks, like the alternator) spray some of the vacuum hose connection ends while the engine is running, to see if there is any rpm change due to a bad seal. ... The brake booster vacuum hose is one other item to look at.

Let us know what you find out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, numberforty1, I read your earlier thread, which is what made me think spark plugs/wires. Just thought that should throw a CEL.

Thanks dc_98_cam, I have taken a pretty good look around the engine looking for loose wires, connectors, tubes, etc. My air intake hose was completely disconnected going to the air filter, so I reconnected that. (It was pretty loose from when I installed, because I have little girly muscles.) Will recheck around the EGR valve.

Will report back as soon as I have some more info!
 

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Yea, I thought it would throw a CEL too, that's why it took so long to figure out! Thing to remember is that codes are not necessarily thrown if your issue only occurs when the engine is cool. That may not be the case for you though. But dc_98 is right, get a code scan anyway, it's always the first thing to look at.

Which air intake hose did you mean?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This air intake hose:



The part that was disconnected is the big tube shown at the top in the picture (but is actually on the bottom when installed).

Not finding any vacuum tube leaks with my eyes. I have ordered NGK plugs and wires and will report back after I get them installed.

Thanks again!
 

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2016 Rav4
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wouldnt' hurt to disconnect the air intake hose and check it for cuts as it tends to break in the creases and won't pull open until the engine rocks forward, as in taking off and such. that will upset the air balance pretty bad. also, you can pull the battery negative off for 10 seconds (assuming your radio doesn't have an anti-theft code set) and reconnect it to reset the computer in case it got messes up driving with the snorkel loose/disconnected.
and definitely replace the plugs and wires as 98 says cause they do go bad, along with cleaning out the intake while you have the snorkel off with a toothbrush and seafoam to get gunk out of the holes a few inches inside behind the butterfly for both the IAC and EGR valves and lastly put a can of seafoam in the tank.
let us know how it works out.
tony
tony
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Replaced plugs and wires last night, put a bottle of Techron in the gas tank and filled up on Tuesday. No marked improvement in my symptoms, but the car seems like it will run better than ever if I can get the rough idle solved.

Plan to replace PCV valve and clean throttle body/IAC valve tomorrow. Will report back.

Thanks again, y'all!
 

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Ha, yea having the air filter assembly disconnected would definitely cause some issues, try resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery as mcg suggested. Can you describe how it is rough idling? Possibly misfiring? Did any of the old spark plugs look different from the others?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had the battery disconnected while I installed the new plugs and wires. That should have done the ECU reset, right? The idle was running at 800 rpm steady, but as of today it's dropped to about 500rpm... the car shakes forward and backward while I'm stopped at a light. The rough idle is now apparent in Park and Neutral, not only while in gear. The sound is kind of like a really soft, pretty slow air popping. Like if you blow out of your mouth while hitting your mouth with the palm of your hand... when we were kids we used to do that to make a helicopter noise... I doubt that was a super helpful explanation.
 

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2016 Rav4
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"The sound is kind of like a really soft, pretty slow air popping. Like if you blow out of your mouth while hitting your mouth with the palm of your hand... when we were kids we used to do that to make a helicopter noise..."

sounds like a blown head gasket or possible exhaust or intake gasket leak. do a leak down test on the engine for compression on all cylinders and also did you pull any codes yet?
tony
 

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ToyotaRIMD
Camry 1999,
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294 Posts
I am facing the same situation on 1999 Camry. :frown:My spark plugs are new. I went to auto parts store and asked for a code scan. They said their scan detect code only when check engine lights on. My check engine is off.

I looked around the engine compartment . I did not see any obvious loose vacuum lines ...something that could have come loose could be the cause of my problem.

I disconnected the battery negative terminal and connected back after 1 hour.

The problem remain same.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks for sharing.
 
G

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I am facing the same situation on 1999 Camry. :frown:My spark plugs are new. I went to auto parts store and asked for a code scan. They said their scan detect code only when check engine lights on. My check engine is off.

I looked around the engine compartment . I did not see any obvious loose vacuum lines ...something that could have come loose could be the cause of my problem.

I disconnected the battery negative terminal and connected back after 1 hour.

The problem remain same.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks for sharing.
I had conversation with TigerHeli. He shared his insight as he described in this thread and he was helpful. I posted the outcome with my mechanic,who took apart my engine. COPS does not want to involve, because it is civil matter.
Oh but I thought your car was in pieces in the big bad mechanic's shop?:wtf::wink2::bullshitz
 
G

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This is another car. As my car stuck in bad mechanic shop, I borrowed this from my sister.

I find this :troll: issue here.
Making this thread just a bit more interesting!! Who wants to talk about cars on a car forum anyway.

:bouncinggirl::bouncinggirl: :bouncinggirl::bouncinggirl:
 

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Toyota Collector
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12,162 Posts
This is another car. As my car stuck in bad mechanic shop, I borrowed this from my sister.

I find this issue there.
What car are you gonna borrow after the mechanic pulls the engine to try and find out why the gas pedal is vibrating?
 

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ToyotaRIMD
Camry 1999,
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294 Posts
It is a same kind of car 1999 Camry that has 150K miles on it. It is a V6. I find vibration on idle and driving above 2500 RPM. I feel at gas pedal , steering & left leg rest area/pad. My car was quite. I did not find such issue on my car.

After driving this car for awhile, I find uneasiness on my body as well.

Thanks for sharing.
 
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