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Camreee
'99 Auto V6 Camry
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It would be simpler to do it the way you mentioned. The plates just came in the mail so Im about to go block off the current throttle body and cooler output, I'll try take a picture of how I do it from above. Hotter than sin outside so not getting under the car, but if I can do the cooler tubes from above I will.

The stock EGR cooler tube is much much less intrusive to space, because they manifolds are configured totally differently the cooler tube doesn't block that giant open area behind the block under the rear head, its just a single U shaped tube that is very efficient space wise - the obx header egr output is a 6 inch tube with a flange that connects to a standalone double flanged tube which connects to the block cooler. These block off plates feel weightless, while the steel tubes weigh like a pound each as well. They go right through the big open area around the rear lower block/crossmember, and I will probably get annoyed trying to work around it in the future.

I don't think I'll ever end up putting EGR back in regardless of the throttle body, because long term I'd like to turbo-charge it; and egr+turbo is a bad idea as far as I've read, plus I'm tired of cleaning my plenum and throttle body out.

Time to find out if my EGR nuts managed to seize in the last two months.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
A few quick notes:
  • Would love to see a few pictures of accessing the EGR cooler nuts (holding the EGR recirculation tube) from above - I wasn't able to.
  • I've never had bolts/nuts freeze after they have been removed once - will be shocked if yours are.
  • Wasn't aware of your specialized header - I can see the space issue now.
  • I can see the issue with EGR not working well with turbo. Turbo runs off the exhaust and needs as much pressure as possible for the turbine so EGR would reduce it's effectiveness
Hope it cools down soon ...
 

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Camreee
'99 Auto V6 Camry
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421 Posts
I didn't end up doing the cooler tube because it was getting dark and I hate not being able to see anything. I blocked off both throttle ports, and the block cooler output port, composite gaskets behind each block off plate. Total time was about 1.5-2 hours.

First I loosed the two 10mm throttle cable bolts until the tip of the bolt was flush with the back plate, I didn't want it coming off, just to wiggle. I also loosed the 4 12mm throttle body nuts and bolts, and pulled the throttle body about 1/2" away from the plenum gasket; again for wiggle room.

After that I just started going to town with my 10mm socket on all the egr nuts connected to the throttle body and recirc tube. Once they were off I took a bungee cord and held the throttle wide open to get the lever out of the way of the egr assembly, then shimmys the egr assembly backwards and up off of the studs; left composite gaskets on the hot side of each port, and placed the block off plates over them. Slid the egr assembly back onto the studs and put on some flange nuts on the bottom and the regular nuts on the top by the throttle. After that just bolted everything back together in the order I unbolted it, except much easier without a tube in the way lol.


This how I accessed the egr nuts on the bottom of the tube to install the block off plate.

For the upper nut I used a 1/4 flex head swivel ratchet with a 4 inch wobble extension, a 2 inch wobble extension, and a 10mm short socket.

For the lower nut I used a 1/4 flex head swivel ratchet with a 4 inch wobble extension, a u joint, a 2 inch wobble extension, and a 10mm short socket.

What is not pictured is that my chest is basically laying on top of my solara strut bar, and I have no airbox whatsoever so i can fit a second arm into the ratchet to help it catch the teeth when the nut is loose, and my entire intake can be removed in literally 10 seconds.
305158
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Sounds like a successful evening!

Wasn't aware that the dual throttle also has a separate EGR port for each throttle. Can you point me to a picture on the internet or even from your phone?

Also, removing the airbox likely frees up some space - I was trying to reach down with everything in place - lol. Will try again once my eBay replacement EGR tube arrive in the mail.

FWIW: I remove the EGR studs from the plenum using an E-torx socket so that the EGR valve lifts off the plenum without doing anything with the throttle body or the throttle cable.
 

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Camreee
'99 Auto V6 Camry
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421 Posts
The dual throttle body has a permanently blocked off EGR port, that's the reason Im blocking off EGR.

I left the EGR assembly on my engine for now because I didn't have any vacuum plugs for the EGR lines; so I blocked the top throttle port as well as the bottom EGR valve port (pretty pointless, I'll have to take that plate back off anyway to reuse lol).
 

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Discussion Starter #46
What about the CEL P0401 from the EGR now that there's no exhaust to heat it up? And what about CEL P0402 when you remove the vacuum and the position sensor can't detect the extent of the opening from the vacuum actuator?

Do you have a way to defeat those or just live with them?
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Finally got this fixed with a replacement used eBay tube ($15). Once the airbox is removed, it's not hard to reach round to the nuts. There was a bit of rust and one nut came out with the stud attached to it so I put it back that exact same way. P0401 gone!

Root cause of my issue is that I had kinked my EGR tube in 5 different places while removing the rear valve cover and then putting it back together to align with the EGR valve. Instead, I should have lifted the rear wire harness above the EGR tube by unplugging the power steering pressure sensor connector and the O2 sensor connector.

A picture of 2 of the kinks is attached - even the slightest kink is enough to permanently distort the tube so it won't fit.
Lesson learned! Thanks for everyone's help with this (especially Camreeeee)!!


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EGR 24.jpg
 

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Camreee
'99 Auto V6 Camry
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421 Posts
Glad you got it fixed and that the code is gone; happy to help :)

After seeing those kinks I figured I'd see how easily I could warp my old one by hand..for science..

IMG_20200728_230602Z.jpg

305911
305912
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I see the note that the EGR tube must go below the transmission shift cable on install, however, on mine that doesn't work at all on my car. See the pictures below where the EGR tube is above the transmission shift cable. The shift cable is free and not contacting anything and so is the EGR tube. Can you please take a quick look and confirm that this is correct?


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Shift Linkage 2.jpg

View attachment 304936
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Camreee
'99 Auto V6 Camry
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421 Posts
Yep, that's the correct configuration. When it's the other way the cable will press down taunt against the EGR tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Thanks for confirming quickly - glad I don't have to open and re-install that tube again!

Another point that I noted: You had mentioned that the EGR gas is drawn at the bottom of the plenum, however, as the picture shows, my EGR opening is at the top of the plenum and the EGR gas is drawn from the 1/2" plenum port straight down vertically into the plenum - without the swirl opening at the bottom you were referring to. I think the swirl shape at the bottom is to prevent the EGR gas from being drawn into the suction hose for the brake.

Can you please take a quick look at the diagram and let me know if this makes sense or if yours is different somehow? Appreciate your help with this (hopefully last question) !

306136
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I figured it out - see attached picture - there's just the one 1/2" diameter opening at the top of the plenum where you can push through a plastic cleaning brush for cleaning. Despite effort to pull the carbon soot out rather than push it into the plenum, a lot of carbon fell into the plenum anyway which was easily remove by a dry cloth and the area cleaned with a little bit of carb cleaner. I'm guessing this has to be done every few years.

Plenum cleaning 1.jpg
 

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short-throw dipstick
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Whoa that's a fair bit of carbon. I opted to replace my EGR valve as the valve itself was sticking open due to pieces of carbon I couldn't get out for some reason. I find driving the car harder extends the EGR service interval (probably because EGR should be inactive at WOT).
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Yes, the EGR port is closed at 4,000 rpm and higher to deliver a bit more power, so perhaps driving the car harder will reduce the amount of carbon deposited.

It may be dependent upon the car model too. What car are you describing?
 

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short-throw dipstick
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I replaced the valve, EGR cooler, piping, and gaskets on my '99 V6.

My '00 I4 hasn't ever had EGR problems, and I do drive it pretty hard. I did give it a good cleaning when I swapped the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Believe the issue with the V6 is that the blockage is at the plenum after the EGR valve, so the computer thinks all is well - the position sensor detects the opening and the temperature rises so it doesn't throw P0401 or P0402. However, no exhaust is actually reaching the cylinders and early detonation is detected by the knock sensors which then retard the timing reducing power.

With no CEL, there's no reason to open/clean the EGR system. I only found this issue when the plenum was removed for the rear valve cover gasket replacement work at 180,000 miles.

This blockage is probably years old and I have been getting higher emissions and lower power forever and not known it.
 
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