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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Suddenly our 1999 Corolla DX (233k miles) has a New problem, the 3 Breaklights (cyclops in rear window and 2 rear) will not turn off after the engine is off, parked and key removed! NOTE: I SAID BREAK-LIGHTS NOT TAILLIGHTS. The BreakLights are ON, and no other lights are on. Pulling on or pushing the break pedal makes no difference.
The "Stalk Switch" is in the OFF position.
Anyone have a solution?

We did find this (see photo attached_ broken round disk on the driver side floor board near the break pedal. Looking under the dash with a light at the break pedal assembly and the according cover over the break switch (I assume) I can't see any place where this broken part could have come from.

Also as an aside question: Does anyone know how to Disable that damn DLR or Auto Lights On system on the 1999 Corolla. We're smart enough to turn our lights on at dusk all by ourselves

Thanks
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This video should help. That cap you found should be on the brake pedal area that depresses the switch to turn them off. With it gone the switch isn't depressed enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
This video should help. That cap you found should be on the brake pedal area that depresses the switch to turn them off. With it gone the switch isn't depressed enough.
Was just under the dash a couple hours ago, our '99 Corolla looks nothing like that early 90's Corolla in that video. I suspected that the broke disk was some kind of contact point for the plunger in the brake switch, but the brake pedal is considerably different and operates differently in a '99 8 series Corolla. No "space" opens up between the brake switch and the pedal. The switch is also completely enclosed in an "accordion" cover (we called them Fork "Gators" on old Brit and Jap motorcycles), even the plunger is hidden!

I'd need a real good diagram or photos of where that disk came from and how a new one goes in!

I have a '97 Mazda B-4000 4.0L V6 PuP, it's a rebranded Ford Ranger XLT from when Ford owned Mazda, and it's a hell of a lot easier to work on than these Corolla's!! Yiles!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This is the P/N I found and a basic diagram for the location.
Maybe? 90541-06036
Naw, the pedal assembly looks nothing like that in our '99 Corolla DX, our '99 should have only ONE Cushion, not the Two in your picture.

I took more pictures and compared them to others I found on the Net where the cushion pad is at.

Picture with White arrow is from the Net
Picture with LONG red arrow is our '99 Corolla DX
Diagram from Toyota Parts catalog.
Automotive tire Gas Automotive wheel system Rim Household hardware


Automotive tire Bicycle part Wood Rim Gas

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We're a little confused; are you not in the U.S. despite your flag next to your user name? DX was not one of the trim levels for 98-02 Corollas, they were all VE / CE / LE or S. Anyway, I don't see how it could be anything besides the plunger switch being stuck or out of adjustment (because more pedal travel would be required without the bumper in place). Can you manually operate the plunger switch and what happens when it is fully inserted if so?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Whats crazy is that diagram was from Toyota for that car.
Did you get it fixed?
The Consensus is that, that plastic "cushion" is causing the Brake light issue, local Toyota parts mgr agreed and so I ran down to buy the part, a whole $1.49, they only had one, said they never inventory more than 1 or 2 .

We'll install it over the 4th weekend

He printed out the parts exploded diagram from their system, so this is official. Save it to share for the next Gen 8 Corolla owner. Part number 47131
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
We're a little confused; are you not in the U.S. despite your flag next to your user name? DX was not one of the trim levels for 98-02 Corollas, they were all VE / CE / LE or S. Anyway, I don't see how it could be anything besides the plunger switch being stuck or out of adjustment (because more pedal travel would be required without the bumper in place). Can you manually operate the plunger switch and what happens when it is fully inserted if so?
Wife corrected me, it's her car, and it's a USA "CE" (Cheapo Economy" model, nothing is electric on it (windows, seats, locks), didn't even come with a clock!, surprised it has a factory AM/FM Cassette player! Well, you get what you pay for .... 232+k miles, orig Auto Trans, motor never rebuilt (I "Seafoam" it every 25k miles), but the Power Rack n Pinion failed at 125k, no oil leaks and I "replumbed" the AC once so far. Oh forgot the Catalytic Conv died at 180k
 

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98-00
VE- Base trim, "value edition"
CE- Middle trim, "comfort edition basically the top seller by volume"
LE- Top trim, "Luxury edition"

01-02
VE- No longer offered
CE- New Base Trim level
LE- Middle trim level (volume seller)
S- Sport edition, but top dog.

Just for reference
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just an update, got the Brake pedal cushion in with GREAT EFFORT! Jeez us, I did less cussing installing a new Alternator in my wife's Corolla!

TIPS:
1) have a LONG surgical Forsips to hold the cushion tightly.
2) a VERY bright light to see the metal tab on the brake pedal that the cushion attaches to, it is VERY hard to see.
3) you better have a really good and flexible back, be 20 something years old. Me at 73 could barely contort to see up under the dash.
4) have your wife, if she has skinny but strong legs, stand HARD on the brake pedal while the engine in running. Otherwise, there is NOT enough clearance between that tab and tab and the brake light switch to get the new cushion in.
5) allow yourself about 20 minutes of frustration cussing fighting that cushion in between the switch and the tab with the hole in it. The Cushion is some kind of slippery, perhaps a Teflon type plastic, and it will pop off the Forsips teeth several times trying to get it in place.


I'd rather install an Alternator or AC system than do this again!

ONLY $1.49 at your Local Toyota Dealership's Parts Dept. Part Number 90541-06036 "117D Cushion"
 

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You could remove the entire brake pedal and replace the bushing outside the car. You may still need your wife's skinny limbs, and fight a couple return springs, but it should require much less effort.

That, or jam a suitably long 2x4 between pedal and seat to hold it down.

Anyway, congrats on getting the new bushing in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You could remove the entire brake pedal and replace the bushing outside the car. You may still need your wife's skinny limbs, and fight a couple return springs, but it should require much less effort.

That, or jam a suitably long 2x4 between pedal and seat to hold it down.

Anyway, congrats on getting the new bushing in.
I appreciate your opinion on this, however, you have to be kidding!?

Have you actually tried this on a real Toyota Corolla?? To get the pedal assembly off, you would have to: 1) Remove the Driver's Seat from the car. There is no way the seat goes back far enough to get in there to REMOVE anything without destroying your back trying to work from the door opening. 2) Remove the lower dash panel. 3) and then the fun starts, with working upside down on your back laying where the seat was and removing a lot of components and springs, just to push in a spacer cushion. 4) then .... Reverse the process, more fun, and after 3 or 4 hours you have accomplished what took only 20 minutes of Cussing for a 73-year-old.

I've been been building race cars and repairing mine or friend's cars and truck since I was 14. My dad was VP of Engineering Truck Div for Ford, owned 4 Ford/Lincoln/Mercury dealerships and one Cobra Dealership Franchise for the Tri-state area of ILL, IND and WISC.

Take care and have a good summer.
 

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Little Pig
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I appreciate your opinion on this, however, you have to be kidding!?

Have you actually tried this on a real Toyota Corolla?? To get the pedal assembly off, you would have to: 1) Remove the Driver's Seat from the car. There is no way the seat goes back far enough to get in there to REMOVE anything without destroying your back trying to work from the door opening. 2) Remove the lower dash panel. 3) and then the fun starts, with working upside down on your back laying where the seat was and removing a lot of components and springs, just to push in a spacer cushion. 4) then .... Reverse the process, more fun, and after 3 or 4 hours you have accomplished what took only 20 minutes of Cussing for a 73-year-old.
I did a manual swap on mine in 2007 and it involved swapping in a smaller brake pedal. A lot had to come out like you said, but not the driver seat - as far as I remembered. True that I was 40 years younger at the time...

The way you put it, 2x4 sounds like by far the better option.
 
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