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I have a 2005 Toyota with the 4.0 1GR-FE motor with about 220k miles. I bought it recently from my brother in law who neglected it and it was not able to pass emissions. Initially the codes I pulled were:
P0016 Crankshaft Position / Crankshaft Position Correlation - Bank 1 Sensor A and P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A. He had replaced both a crankshaft and camshaft sensor - bank 1 but it did not fix it. Forum searches lead me to the fact that the timing chain was likely to be stretched. When I pulled it later, it most certainly was.

So I replaced the timing chain, tensioners, oil pump, water pump with a kit from Evergreen. When I was taking it apart, I found that on the Bank 1, the cam sensor pickup on the phaser had broken, and I fished the other part out of the oil pan. I couldn't find this piece to buy, so I welded it back together and reassembled.

I got it back together and the chain felt a little tight, but the timing marks were as they should be (I watched the video from NGK that is posted a lot on here). Added oil and coolant. When I fired up the motor, it ran but not well. I found a vacuum line missing, which I think was to blame for the uneven idle. The codes it was posted were P0016, P0018 and P0020. Fixed that vacuum line part, but now it won't start. It seems as though something has seized in the motor and the starter will only grind and not advance the motor.

Any idea or place to start with this?


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1995 T100 2WD
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Have you done anymore investigating? With the plugs out can you turn the engine over either with the starter or at the crank by hand? Is the starter engaging the Flexplate/flywheel. Should you get it, is there any debri in the fresh oil?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
We dug into it more today. I checked main chain’s tensioner and removed it to release tension but the motor still seems to be bound up. Pulled the starter to see why it was making the sound and it’s functioning correctly. It seems like at this point that the engine may be seized. It did run for about 2-3 minutes total, then I stopped it to find a vacuum leak, pulled the intake manifold, replaced it and then it wouldn’t run.
I did not prime the oil pump if that was necessary. I can not rotate the crankshaft at all at this point and I’m not sure what to do. I rented a borescope to see if maybe the valves were contacting the pistons but I wasn’t able to see anything.

Any ideas?
 

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1995 T100 2WD
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Being a non-interference motor I doubt a piston was struck unless a valve gave way. I think besides the scope you might consider taking the chain off and seeing if the cams rotate by hand as well as trying to rotate the engine via the crank. Anything in the oil?
 

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I haven't drained the oil down to see if anything is in it. All the intake valves were in place, but I couldn't view the exhaust valves. I can manually turn the cams just a little bit (maybe 2-3 degrees) with an open end, but haven't torn the whole thing down. The motor has 220k, so I'm not sure if the smart move here is to just have it rebuild or replaced. Might be. I'd like to keep the truck.
 

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Cams only move a couple degrees with the chain on? If that's the case it doesn't surprise me.
I don't know anything about that motor except that 220k on it doesn't seem to be an issue. Like the 3.4 in my T100 or the 22re series in the older trucks. All pretty bullet proof. Time for more investigating and then some cost analysis.
I guess it's possible the crank broke. Do you know much about the trucks history?
 

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I got curious and starting reading a variety of reviews on that engine. It seems that it's weak point is the thin cylinderr liners that can't handle even minor abuse. 2 seperate articles ( one by Motor Review) both said a well maintained one was good for 150k miles and the key there was "well maintained". I was surprised! The next gen 4.0 had a better block and thicker cylinder sleeves and got rave reviews. I've seen V8's drop a sleeve and bind a crank on GM products many years ago ( I had one, a 396 I'd bored well past recommended limits, It ran extremely well for about a day and a half).
I wonder if you could put the next gen 4.0 in should you decide to replace that engine vs. overhauling it.
More ponies, torque and reliablity. Are you gonna do the work or have it done? Maybe check into either a short block or long block depending on the condition of the heads. Thinking out-loud since what your experiencing is odd to say the least.
 

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I can't see how unless the oil pump was bad from the start and NEVER created any pressure!
Plus I think you said in a previous post that you shut the engine off vs. it stopping suddenly.
Have you plugged a scanner into the ECM and checked for any stored or pending codes?
 

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If engine ran fine for a couple minutes, could the cylinders become dry enough to seize the pistons.
I can't see how unless the oil pump was bad from the start and NEVER created any pressure!
Plus I think you said in a previous post that you shut the engine off vs. it stopping suddenly.
Have you plugged a scanner into the ECM and checked for any stored or pending codes?
Yes, those mentioned by O-verland.
 

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The only option I see is to remove the timing chain and see if you can rotate the engine with a wrench at the crank as well as see if the cams will turn freely at the same time. If the cams won't rotate that most likely means the valves have been damaged and are hanging up on each other or a valve is bent. Same with the bottom end. When you say "No Warning" does that mean after a few minutes the engine stopped? I was under the impression you shut it down over a possible vacuum leak or other issue. Are both of you working on this? Overland and Punisher? Anything in the oil or the oil filter?
 

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The only option I see is to remove the timing chain and see if you can rotate the engine with a wrench at the crank as well as see if the cams will turn freely at the same time. If the cams won't rotate that most likely means the valves have been damaged and are hanging up on each other or a valve is bent. Same with the bottom end. When you say "No Warning" does that mean after a few minutes the engine stopped? I was under the impression you shut it down over a possible vacuum leak or other issue. Are both of you working on this? Overland and Punisher? Anything in the oil or the oil filter?
Yes, we're both working it. It ran fine and shut it down when we found an air line disconnected. Ran good til then.
 

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That's good news! Now ya need to keep digging since it wasn't a Catastrophic Engine Stop.
Until you know it will rotate it's nothing more than a Boat Anchor!
 

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You mentioned that the engine had been neglected, and I think that's a key point. Many owners get well over 200k (some over 300Kk) out of 1GR-FEs without any major problems. The early ones did have some head gasket problems near the rear cylinder on the right (documented on these forums), but that's about it.

My guess it spun some main and/or rod bearings, and that the engine is toast.
 
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