[1994CamryWagon]

Hey everyone, I'm new to this forum and looking to restore my 1994 Toyota Camry wagon, with the 1mz-fe. My car needs exhaust manifolds, and I was wondering if I got a earlier 3vz-fe, could I use the manifolds on my V6?
Also, I need a rear subframe, is it wagon exclusive? Any models I can get these parts from and any other advice is greatly appreciated!

 

[BMR]

Dunno if the 3VZ’s exhaust manifolds will fit, but you should have no trouble finding 1MZ manifolds. The 1MZ was used on Camrys from ‘94 thru ‘01. It was also used on a few other models, but those manifolds may or may not fit. Sienna, Highlander, & Avalon, to name a few. The Avalon’s from ‘95 - ‘99 will more likely work, as they shared a lot with the Camrys, parts wise.

The rear subframe - don’t know. I’d be surprised if one from a sedan will fit the wagon.

If there are no salvage yards near you, try looking on car-parts.com.

 

[1994CamryWagon]

Dunno if the 3VZ’s exhaust manifolds will fit, but you should have no trouble finding 1MZ manifolds. The 1MZ was used on Camrys from ‘94 thru ‘01. It was also used on a few other models, but those manifolds may or may not fit. Sienna, Highlander, & Avalon, to name a few. The Avalon’s from ‘95 - ‘99 will more likely work, as they shared a lot with the Camrys, parts wise.

The rear subframe - don’t know. I’d be surprised if one from a sedan will fit the wagon.

If there are no salvage yards near you, try looking on car-parts.com.

Sorry for reviving a dead thread, but just to confirm, an xv20 1mzfe exhaust manifold should be identical to the xv10 correct? After 3 years, and getting sidetracked on other projects its time to fix the camry haha

 

[93celicaconv]

From what I can tell, both exhaust manifolds (left bank and right bank) have the same part number between them, so they appear to be identical.

 

[norm356]

I doubt that a 3VZ exhaust manifold would fit onto a 1MZ, but if the bolt holes all line up, and if the port spacing is the same they might. They are two quite different families of engine and several spacings were modified when the lighter, lower cost to produce 1MZ was created, so that would be the risk.

Regarding the rear subframe, the wagon is quite different from the sedan (for the low load floor).

 

[1994CamryWagon]

I doubt that a 3VZ exhaust manifold would fit onto a 1MZ, but if the bolt holes all line up, and if the port spacing is the same they might. They are two quite different families of engine and several spacings were modified when the lighter, lower cost to produce 1MZ was created, so that would be the risk.

Regarding the rear subframe, the wagon is quite different from the sedan (for the low load floor).

ah, from what I saw, people were listing them as the same, and without removing them they looked similar. I cant find a specific wagon subframe either.

 

[93celicaconv]

Sorry for reviving a dead thread, but just to confirm, an xv20 1mzfe exhaust manifold should be identical to the xv10 correct? After 3 years, and getting sidetracked on other projects its time to fix the camry haha

I guess I did not read that into the question asked. The xv10 had 3VZ-FE engines early in the series and 1MZ-FE engines later in the series. All xv20 series had the 1MZ-FE as the only V6. So I assumed the question was in regards to the same V6 used in the two series.

Regardless, the 1MZ-FE and 3VZ-FE do not share the same exhaust manifolds - they are not interchangeable.

 

[norm356]

I stand corrected, the Wagon DOES use the same rear subframe as the sedan.

 

[1994CamryWagon]

I stand corrected, the Wagon DOES use the same rear subframe as the sedan.

I'm excited about that, I might actually be able to save this car haha. 450k kms, been with our family since I was 2 and I love it to death. My other issue is rusty rocker panels, I was wondering if anyone had any advice on that? The pinch welds are rusted and I want to build it strong enough to be able to jack from there. Also removal of subframe/manifolds advice would be appreciated.

 

[norm356]

Advice on rusty rocker panels is tough, because no one makes repair patch panels for these cars. So, it means repair patches would have to be made by hand for each area.

Note that once the pinch flanges begin to rust enough to weaken them, there are often many other areas reaching the same point. Being a unit body, all panels are important for strength and rigidity. When I was faced with a badly rusted, loved old Camry, I bought a rust free donor car and swapped body shells. It was a lot of work but eliminated countless hours of cutting and welding rusted portions.

Removal of subframe is usually pretty straightforward: there are 4 large nuts holding it on, with large washers and long studs which thread into weld nuts in the body. Typically, this arrangement protects the weld nut in the body from rusting, so even if all the rest is rusted scrap those other portions can be replaced.

Note the sway bar, trailing links, parking brake cables and brake lines must come off first*, then dropping the subframe is pretty simple. After that is the removal of the radius links and the hub/knuckle. The bottom bolt through the knuckle is usually a real bear. Lots of penetrating oil, heat and force to loosen them before starting the rest of the removal is best (use the car to hold it while you lever with long lever arms back and forth for a while till it starts to move). Ideally, get the whole thing from a rust free donor and throw the old knuckle away with all the links (a real time saver).

Norm

* edit: and rear portion of the exhaust

 

[1994CamryWagon]

Advice on rusty rocker panels is tough, because no one makes repair patch panels for these cars. So, it means repair patches would have to be made by hand for each area.

Note that once the pinch flanges begin to rust enough to weaken them, there are often many other areas reaching the same point. Being a unit body, all panels are important for strength and rigidity. When I was faced with a badly rusted, loved old Camry, I bought a rust free donor car and swapped body shells. It was a lot of work but eliminated countless hours of cutting and welding rusted portions.

Removal of subframe is usually pretty straightforward: there are 4 large nuts holding it on, with large washers and long studs which thread into weld nuts in the body. Typically, this arrangement protects the weld nut in the body from rusting, so even if all the rest is rusted scrap those other portions can be replaced.

Note the sway bar, trailing links, parking brake cables and brake lines must come off first, then dropping the subframe is pretty simple. After that is the removal of the radius links and the hub/knuckle. The bottom bolt through the knuckle is usually a real bear. Lots of penetrating oil, heat and force to loosen them before starting the rest of the removal is best (use the car to hold it while you lever with long lever arms back and forth for a while till it starts to move). Ideally, get the whole thing from a rust free donor and throw the old knuckle away with all the links (a real time saver).

Norm

Yeah, I'm hoping because I have plenty of time that I can fix this shell cause a rust free wagon shell would be hard to come by and pricey. Also, thank you for the advice, its good to know. Thank you!

 

[2019PDGM]

Yeah, I'm hoping because I have plenty of time that I can fix this shell cause a rust free wagon shell would be hard to come by and pricey. Also, thank you for the advice, its good to know. Thank you!

you should just buy my 93 rust fee wagon lol

 

[1994CamryWagon]

you should just buy my 93 rust fee wagon lol

I'll put it on my parts to buy list

 

[1994CamryWagon]

Advice on rusty rocker panels is tough, because no one makes repair patch panels for these cars. So, it means repair patches would have to be made by hand for each area.

Note that once the pinch flanges begin to rust enough to weaken them, there are often many other areas reaching the same point. Being a unit body, all panels are important for strength and rigidity. When I was faced with a badly rusted, loved old Camry, I bought a rust free donor car and swapped body shells. It was a lot of work but eliminated countless hours of cutting and welding rusted portions.

Removal of subframe is usually pretty straightforward: there are 4 large nuts holding it on, with large washers and long studs which thread into weld nuts in the body. Typically, this arrangement protects the weld nut in the body from rusting, so even if all the rest is rusted scrap those other portions can be replaced.

Note the sway bar, trailing links, parking brake cables and brake lines must come off first*, then dropping the subframe is pretty simple. After that is the removal of the radius links and the hub/knuckle. The bottom bolt through the knuckle is usually a real bear. Lots of penetrating oil, heat and force to loosen them before starting the rest of the removal is best (use the car to hold it while you lever with long lever arms back and forth for a while till it starts to move). Ideally, get the whole thing from a rust free donor and throw the old knuckle away with all the links (a real time saver).

Norm

* edit: and rear portion of the exhaust

So I started on the subframe removal and had a few other questions. Why do the parking brake cables and brake lines need to come off? Are they going to be in the way when I drop the subframe?
I'm not sure how to remove the parking brake cable, as I wasnt able to get the caliper bracket bolt off yet (socket slipped, I'm scared to strip it), so if I can avoid taking off the parking brake cable it would make the job easier for me. Also should I remove all four arms on the subframe at both ends before I drop the subframe?

 

[norm356]

If you can remove the rear hubs (and brakes) from the links, then you can leave those things attached.

Often, it is incredibly hard to get the lower bolt that holds the two cross links to the hub. In that case, it all has to come off to replace the hub as well.

Definitely remove the outer bolt from the hub, freeing the outboard end of the arms while the rest is still attached to the car, because it will probably take a LOT of force, and time and patience to get it out and for that you want the rest of the car holding the subframe for you.

The inner arms/bolt is best left until after the sub is out, for easy access.


Norm