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Camreee
Race build '99 NA V6.
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Update: Don't install these the way I did. You will regret it.




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These were the only headers I could find available on the internet for the 1MZ where the pictures didn't look like a 3 year old was handed 50 4" sections of straight piping and a welder. These ones were done by at least a 12 year old who had a few curved pipes in his straight pipe collection. No idea if they are legit or not, but they look better than the alternatives.

Edit: They are legit, that seller is an authorized OBX reseller. They were manufactured in china in july of 2017 and have an OBX lifetime warranty.

The primaries and Y pipe have some choice welds instead of properly bent tubing but still look much less restrictive, barring primary for cylinder 5, which has weld material sticking 2mm into the tube..

Going to wait until friday or when it stops raining or maybe not to install when I feel like being annoyed at my car for 8-12 hours. Thankfully solaraguy has some great install guides because I'd be at a loss otherwise.

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ohhh shiny! I hope the head flange is actually flat (check it with a good straight edge!)
Half the Youtube machine shop videos I watch (Abom79) are him cleaning up Chinese-ium like this.

Flange is nice and thick, what did you pay??
 

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1999 Solara SLE, V6, 352,000 miles
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those are pretty! are they stainless? Are you racing your car?
 

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Camreee
Race build '99 NA V6.
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189 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
ohhh shiny! I hope the head flange is actually flat (check it with a good straight edge!)
Half the Youtube machine shop videos I watch (Abom79) are him cleaning up Chinese-ium like this.

Flange is nice and thick, what did you pay??


The flanges are machined flat and brushed, flange welds are all good, not concerned about them.I held both head flanges against each other and they are flush without gaps or wiggling which was honestly surprising.

466.82 Total. 363 something is what they are listed for with $65 shipping + sales tax.

Shipping price was more than I expected, but they dropped $300 in price a compared to 5 months ago so they are still the cheapest they've ever been, and it turns out I missed the packing slip - they are legit OBX with a manufacturers warranty. The packaging itself is excellent quality foams inserts along with layered bubble wrap and more inserts. The stainless steel was spotless. I heard it turns brass/gold colored too after a bit which should look cool if I decide not to wrap the fronts, rears are getting wrapped before they go in for obvious reasons.


those are pretty! are they stainless? Are you racing your car?
Not racing, but planning on doing every other weekend autocross (when its open) and once local track opens back up I plan on doing their required hpde course and then using their circuit on public track days, but nothing competitive, just like pushing the car to its limits.
 

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Looks dope. I always wondered why the pipe from the right head? (Bank 1) bends towards the front of the car then wraps back around to meet the y-pipe. I'd think it would've been easier and less restrictive to have the y-pipe positioned immediately downstream of the RH header. I guess that's to ensure equal length?

Anyway, what do you have set up for the rest of the exhaust?
 

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Camreee
Race build '99 NA V6.
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189 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Looks dope. I always wondered why the pipe from the right head? (Bank 1) bends towards the front of the car then wraps back around to meet the y-pipe. I'd think it would've been easier and less restrictive to have the y-pipe positioned immediately downstream of the RH header. I guess that's to ensure equal length?

Anyway, what do you have set up for the rest of the exhaust?
This is just a hunch, but I believe it's for reason of giving the rear bank A/F feedback sensor a location that is equal distance from the exhaust valves as to maintain proper A/F readings without needing a 4 foot harness and 50 clips to keep it from touching piping and melting. It's pretty clear toyota didn't care about how restrictive the exhaust was in this gen camry and was just focusing on emissions and economy. It's a camry afterall.

===

Rest of the exhaust is stock with with a drilled out muffler, I'm keeping a cat because I have an open floor pan and I don't want to be breathing more fumes than I already do.

I cross drilled through the muffler piping with a 1/2 titanium bit to start holes and then a 1" steel auger bit to really open her up. It doesn't sound great but it sounds good. A real muffler would sound better but my intake is so loud I can't even hear my exhaust.


That's my intake, I can't accurately or effectively describe how it sounds but I'll try my best; from 0-2500 rpm a camry that probably has something inside it, 2500-4000 a normal v6, 4000-5000 ok wtf is that, 5000-6000 a jet engine combined with a v8 with open headers, 6300 rpm fuel cuttoff is ear drum cracking jet engine combined with crackles, it's the loudest intake I've ever heard in real life or in videos, it's also more effective than the stock one was and comparable to my ghetto CAI in power it seems after driving with it for a few days, and gives massively improved throttle response. That link to my intake shows why it's so loud - I get to hear the internal noise of my engine through my intake rather than just intake noise.

I totally made it just for the noise, and this might sound like BS because everyone throws in a K&N air filter and goes "will this give me 10hp", but I'd bet good money this adds/frees up to 10hp, about the same as the cold air intake, and it also gives insane throttle response. Again, I know everyone new to modding cars claims their intake is magic cause it sounds louder; so I'll have to post a video of me giving it the beans.

Just earlier I was adjusting my headlights while it was idling and I was like shit do I have a vacuum leak , what's that noise, so I stick my ear along the intake which was totally fine, then I get to the filter and its like ohhhhhhhhhhh.... that's intake valves opening and closing with the internals sounds propagating through the short intake.

So that's not exactly what you were asking, but that's why I'm leaving the rest of the exhaust stock barring maybe a high flow cat if needed, but I doubt these engines can flow enough air NA for it to actually matter.
 

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1999 Solara SLE, V6, 352,000 miles
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Not racing, but planning on doing every other weekend autocross (when its open) and once local track opens back up I plan on doing their required hpde course and then using their circuit on public track days, but nothing competitive, just like pushing the car to its limits.
Cool! I picked up a 2009 BMW M6 earlier this year, has a V10 in it, will rip you neck off as it changes gears, will spin tires at 80mph when you punch it (needs better tires) Wanting to take it the the Circuit of Americas Track here in Austin. Not sure how to get qualified to be on the track. Gonna have to look into it. I'd be the same way, don't want to race, just want to push the car with out fear of other drivers or losing my license
 

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short-throw dipstick
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/OT for a bit

I work on these all day. I hope you put aside 10-12K for repairs. I'm sure you've done your research, but common failures (more like maintenance):

- rod bearings every 100K
- VANOS oil pump (rebuilt, $1800, new $4000 part cost only) every 100K
- occasional VANOS solenoid failure, engine has one for each camshaft, not shared with any other production motor (maybe S65) and cost $2k ea
- CCV failure. Parts not bad relatively, but 2 in of clearance to get CCV out (1 ft down from back of motor)
- throttle actuator failure. Upgraded gears available
- cannot work on them without dedicated BMW scanning and diagnosis solution for stuff like bleeding VANOS, etc. This is not a car for the backyard wrencher
- and of course, SMG issues. Clutch job is $3700 in parts on a good day if done right, hydraulic upgrades should be done. Yes the SMG is superior to the manual in this car (has same manual as e39 M5. Speaking as e39 M5 owner, manual doesn't fit right with the high-revving S85)

...plus the usual e60/e63 issues. Other than the maintenance/repair headaches, quite enjoyable. Dinan exhaust tips and a lift-off fuel spray tune are all you need to make everybody but the XKR owners jealous :).

/OT off

Cool! I picked up a 2009 BMW M6 earlier this year, has a V10 in it, will rip you neck off as it changes gears, will spin tires at 80mph when you punch it (needs better tires) Wanting to take it the the Circuit of Americas Track here in Austin. Not sure how to get qualified to be on the track. Gonna have to look into it. I'd be the same way, don't want to race, just want to push the car with out fear of other drivers or losing my license
 

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/OT for a bit

I work on these all day. I hope you put aside 10-12K for repairs. I'm sure you've done your research, but common failures (more like maintenance):

- CCV failure. Parts not bad relatively, but 2 in of clearance to get CCV out (1 ft down from back of motor)
Ah! Thx! I may look to you for help if you don't mind! I also have a 2004 E60/N62/Sport Suspension that I have restored, its like new. So yes, familiar with many of the demons, but not all. Know about the others you mentioned, but was is CCV?
 

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short-throw dipstick
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CrankCase Ventilation, it's what BMW calls PCV.

Ah! Thx! I may look to you for help if you don't mind! I also have a 2004 E60/N62/Sport Suspension that I have restored, its like new. So yes, familiar with many of the demons, but not all. Know about the others you mentioned, but was is CCV?
 

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OP, interested to see if you can get some dyno time with the less-restrictive exhaust. Cosmetically I like the shiny; I'm bringing my '99 V6 back to stock and found somebody to do a ceramic chrome coating on my stock intake manifolds and EGR pipes. EGR pipes:




...exhaust manifolds similar, with stock heatshields done in matte black. Been wondering if I should have just gone with headers made with a decent grade of stainless (409 I think is preferred, 316 is usual).
 

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OP, interested to see if you can get some dyno time with the less-restrictive exhaust. Cosmetically I like the shiny; I'm bringing my '99 V6 back to stock and found somebody to do a ceramic chrome coating on my stock intake manifolds and EGR pipes. EGR pipes:



tiac Formula is my first love
...exhaust manifolds similar, with stock heatshields done in matte black. Been wondering if I should have just gone with headers made with a decent grade of stainless (409 I think is preferred, 316 is usual).
409 is what i think SLP used on Headers. My 90 Pontiac Firebird Formula (sorry wife interrupts) is what they used. it will still corrode. turns brown. just a coating tho. if u want pretty. get them ceramic coated right off the bat
 

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wow. thank you guys. didn’t expect to meet so many knowledgeable guys here. thank you !
 

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OP, interested to see if you can get some dyno time with the less-restrictive exhaust.
I second this. If you get to it, perhaps swap in the stock intake for a more accurate comparison between the stock setup.

This is just a hunch, but I believe it's for reason of giving the rear bank A/F feedback sensor a location that is equal distance from the exhaust valves as to maintain proper A/F readings without needing a 4 foot harness and 50 clips to keep it from touching piping and melting. It's pretty clear toyota didn't care about how restrictive the exhaust was in this gen camry and was just focusing on emissions and economy. It's a camry afterall.

===

Rest of the exhaust is stock with with a drilled out muffler, I'm keeping a cat because I have an open floor pan and I don't want to be breathing more fumes than I already do.

I cross drilled through the muffler piping with a 1/2 titanium bit to start holes and then a 1" steel auger bit to really open her up. It doesn't sound great but it sounds good. A real muffler would sound better but my intake is so loud I can't even hear my exhaust.


That's my intake, I can't accurately or effectively describe how it sounds but I'll try my best; from 0-2500 rpm a camry that probably has something inside it, 2500-4000 a normal v6, 4000-5000 ok wtf is that, 5000-6000 a jet engine combined with a v8 with open headers, 6300 rpm fuel cuttoff is ear drum cracking jet engine combined with crackles, it's the loudest intake I've ever heard in real life or in videos, it's also more effective than the stock one was and comparable to my ghetto CAI in power it seems after driving with it for a few days, and gives massively improved throttle response. That link to my intake shows why it's so loud - I get to hear the internal noise of my engine through my intake rather than just intake noise.

I totally made it just for the noise, and this might sound like BS because everyone throws in a K&N air filter and goes "will this give me 10hp", but I'd bet good money this adds/frees up to 10hp, about the same as the cold air intake, and it also gives insane throttle response. Again, I know everyone new to modding cars claims their intake is magic cause it sounds louder; so I'll have to post a video of me giving it the beans.

Just earlier I was adjusting my headlights while it was idling and I was like shit do I have a vacuum leak , what's that noise, so I stick my ear along the intake which was totally fine, then I get to the filter and its like ohhhhhhhhhhh.... that's intake valves opening and closing with the internals sounds propagating through the short intake.

So that's not exactly what you were asking, but that's why I'm leaving the rest of the exhaust stock barring maybe a high flow cat if needed, but I doubt these engines can flow enough air NA for it to actually matter.
Hm..I've never actually took the positioning of the A/F sensors into consideration, I'll definitely look into it now that you've mentioned it. Whatever it is, must be important enough for OBX to keep that stock design choice with their product. Anyway, I can totally believe you're making more power with this intake, but the question is where and how the rest of the RPM range changed. Do you, by chance, know what temps you're getting at the intake? Also, I know a video probably won't do the intake noise justice but I'd love to see it anyway! I think the noise you're describing is like what you hear from individual throttle bodies, right? I'm interested in what something like that would sound like from a Camry.

With the muffler, did you drill the holes before, after, or the muffler itself? I'm not familiar with this kind of mod, so I don't think I'm visualizing it right. I'm assuming the point is to just partially bypass the muffling mechanism. Apologies in advance if I'm heavy with the questions. I can tell from your intake post that you like to experiment, so I thought I'd pick your brain. :)
 

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Camreee
Race build '99 NA V6.
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189 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
OP, interested to see if you can get some dyno time with the less-restrictive exhaust. Cosmetically I like the shiny; I'm bringing my '99 V6 back to stock and found somebody to do a ceramic chrome coating on my stock intake manifolds and EGR pipes. EGR pipes:

...exhaust manifolds similar, with stock heatshields done in matte black. Been wondering if I should have just gone with headers made with a decent grade of stainless (409 I think is preferred, 316 is usual).
I like the shiny, but they won't actually be shiny anymore tomorrow. I've decided I'm going to roll the dice and wrap them with DEI and coat with DEIs 1500F silicone coating and hope for the best, I'm not very concerned, plus I'm too far into this build to pussy out now and leave them exposed causing me to lose out on some power when I'm so close to being done.

I second this. If you get to it, perhaps swap in the stock intake for a more accurate comparison between the stock setup.

Hm..I've never actually took the positioning of the A/F sensors into consideration, I'll definitely look into it now that you've mentioned it. Whatever it is, must be important enough for OBX to keep that stock design choice with their product. Anyway, I can totally believe you're making more power with this intake, but the question is where and how the rest of the RPM range changed. Do you, by chance, know what temps you're getting at the intake? Also, I know a video probably won't do the intake noise justice but I'd love to see it anyway! I think the noise you're describing is like what you hear from individual throttle bodies, right? I'm interested in what something like that would sound like from a Camry.

With the muffler, did you drill the holes before, after, or the muffler itself? I'm not familiar with this kind of mod, so I don't think I'm visualizing it right. I'm assuming the point is to just partially bypass the muffling mechanism. Apologies in advance if I'm heavy with the questions. I can tell from your intake post that you like to experiment, so I thought I'd pick your brain. :)
I wish my phone was reading my sd cards, stopped a few days ago, I'd post comparison videos of pulls from stock, open bottom, cold air intake, and short ram intake. I'll try post an update to this with them tomorrow if I can get them off the cards so there are direct comparisons with the headers as well after install.

I don't know what temps I'm getting, but it's sure as shit not pulling timing ever like it was stock or with the open bottom box - so it is colder air or it would still be pre detonating. I'm sure the lack of dumping hot gasses into it helps, along with the solara strut bar giving some sweet engine bay airflow, and with the stock intake removed there is a massive area of the engine bay open , like were talking multiple cubic feet of empty air around the filter which has air passing over the radiator not just through due to the extra hood gap from the strut bar and then out the windshield cowling over the windshield. It's cold enough to not cause timing retardation, and flows fast enough to not cause high rpm restrictions, but I can't tell you any numbers, because I haven't taken any.

Intake restrictions whether due to flow or temps, started at 4500 rpm, were are highest between 5500 and redline, The cold air intake gave a boost above 4500 but it was jacking my torque under 4k. The gains from the CAI were only due to less timing retardation.

You're spot on with the comparison to ITBs. It sounds like a giant single ITB. Same source of sound. God I need to post some videos. You can hear the singing noise lol. Literally sings. Not my wheel bearings lol.

The muffler itself has "drain holes" drilled through the casing and through the internal piping on the sides and bottom and back, I didn't know where the piping was, so I just made sure to drill across on multiple heights and angles to make sure I impacted pipes. The holes will get covered in black carbon after a week and be basically invisible to anyone who doesn't stick their nose in it. I can't even see the ones that are directly visible on the back of mine because the carbon just blends in with the dirt lol.

The 1mz is super rev happy with stock internals, it's the airflow thats the problem. Honestly I don't really worry about low rpm at all because the engine flashes to 2800 rpm from a brake launch and is going 20mph from a stop once the brakes are off, I hit 30 mph literally 1.5 seconds later and then im making in top of the powerband until the car can't go any faster. It accelerates like a bat out of hell from any speed because it will always downshift into the powerband and all the gears are ridiculously long compared to modern cars yet entirely in powerband where they are used in my driving style, while having a short enough first gear to just rocket the engine up to speed and the car into seconds powerband. Autocross should be really really really interesting with this much improved second gear compared to trying to decide in a split second whether to let it shifts to second or just bang off the rev limiter at 43 in certain spots. Now I can make near peak power everywhere up to 76mph which is amazing.

I'm definitely interested in dynoing it, I'd also really like to get it on a proper scale once I finish gutting it completely for accurate corner weights as well as finding out how much weight I managed to remove, because when driving it it feels as light as a feather and planted to the ground like a redwood. I'll update this thread with a video with sound when its done, the mic is from a $40 dashcam so it won't pick up the depth, but you can still hear it sing the song of my people.

I'd be really really interested in seeing dyno sheets for the stock intake compared to my DIY SRI as well, because this thing absolutely flies now compared to when I had the stock airbox or the cold air intake, and it's even faster than the cold air intake which was legit cold fast flowing air over the entire filter - probably because the airflow dynamics were crap.

My target build completion date is for next autocross event on June 28th, wish I could go to the opening weekend next weekend but I don't have my accusump yet and I would kill the motor before finishing a run with the amount of lateral Gs it pulls. Wrapping and coating the headers tomorrow and just need a rainfree day for install (monday>?) , accusump when its here (20 minute install with oil filter sandwich - my firewall is kinda sorta already totally exposed so install is going to take the amount of time it takes to drill a hole through very accessible sheet metal, screw in the valve, bolt down the brackets to the firewall itself left of the ecu, screw the oil filter off and back on, and tie down the lines away from the block and headers, then just need to plug sunroof and tack up rear door windows so I can take out the actuators and I'm calling it quits except for bracing/caging/reinforcements/whatever makes the body twist when I lift wheels.

I'll post videos of the camry doing autocross on when I can get to the first even in late June, and dyno charts if it happens.

I only hope the headers don't add too much low rpm noise, because if I keep off the throttle and tint the windows you'd never know what it can do until it does it.

Thing is an absolute sleeper with all the weight reduction and suspension work, it looks like a old camry turned show car (minus the dent, comes later, but I keep it very shiny and it gets a lot of looks), you've never know it from the outside if you're not 10 feet away but a quarter second after I press the go pedal no matter what direction the front tires are facing it will fly like a bat out of hell. If I want to go WOT on onramps (who am I kidding, I always go WOT on onramps) I get to deal with people driving on the highway while trying to stare into my car and weaving all over the road...also 50/50 chance any sports car near me will either back way off, pull up and try race me in the middle of traffic if its a subaru or mitsubishi or mustang, corvettes tend to turn off when they see me take a corner, european car drivers are less intent on proving something it seems, on weekends it's even worse. Tonight after I took an onramp at WOT suddenly half a dozen mustangs on the highway all want to do flybys..even though untuned 2.3 ecoboosts can barely pull away if I decide to smack the gas and watch their face for the lols. They weigh at minimum 600 lbs more, and even current gen na 3.7s v6 mustangs are literally slower than my na 3.0 20 year old camry on a diet.

People's brains seem to melt when they see an old camry go fast and they act like idiots in traffic. Last night there was a cop pulling out to pull me over after I let er rip to redline in first from a stoplight launch on an empty street ahead. I was only going like 3 over, just got their really loud and really fast. First gear is insane now that the gearing is even shorter from the tires lol, street ahead was empty.. so I probably could have talked my way out of it if he even lit me up, but then after the cop in a clearly marked ford already pulls out, some A8 behind me decides they want to prove they're faster than a 20 year old camry and got the lights instead after blowing past me :sneaky:.
 

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The 1mz is super rev happy with stock internals, it's the airflow thats the problem. Honestly I don't really worry about low rpm at all because the engine flashes to 2800 rpm from a brake launch and is going 20mph from a stop once the brakes are off, I hit 30 mph literally 1.5 seconds later and then im making in top of the powerband until the car can't go any faster.
What did you do to the motor internals? Anything? Or are you just taking your chances with a 313K motor? Auto or Manual trans?
 

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Camreee
Race build '99 NA V6.
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189 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Engine
What did you do to the motor internals? Anything? Or are you just taking your chances with a 313K motor? Auto or Manual trans?
The internals are completely stock as far I know. Toyota made them right. This engine has spent more time at WOT and redline than 100 average drivers cars put together. I don't rev it to redline when the oil is cold though, so it has the wear of 1 average drivers engine. Seriously, compression was within tolerances at 313k after all my abuse as of a month ago when last did plugs. The oil scraper rings could be better, but even with my driving style I still dont need to add oil between changes, although I change it a lot because of my driving style. With the accusump the engine will have ~8 quarts of operating oil and never see a dry start again, so this could last 500 more miles or 500k more miles, no clue.

If I don't throw a rod through the block I'll try rebuild it in the car when I kill it with some slightly overbore pistons and rings. If its catastrophic then Ill buy a used long block for $500 and an engine hoist.


The transmission is the 4 speed automatic, I absolutely love it, if it blows I'm putting another 4 speed auto in - these can handle some serious long term abuse with stock levels of power and it shifts insanely quick once its warmed up. Can only launch with 100hp without some risky tweaks, but the gearing is set perfectly for the amount of power I have, and its handled thousands and thousands of brake launches without any issues still on the original bands.. minimal metal on magnets last pan cleaning, magnefine inline filter has nothing in it or chunks of bands in it.

When I kill it I'll rebuild if its a set of bands that wears out or replace for $75 if it's anything more complicated than that.
The great thing about these cars is there are 20 in every junkyard and you know 0 of them are there because of the drivetrain.

Did toyota design this transmission to be used in a car with a lot more power as well? It seems overbuilt....
 

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sounds like we have same setup good to know. i was reluctant to put all the money i did into a car with 352k on it, but you’re right. these cars are built smart. where are you gonna pick up an engine. was considering building one now so i have it ready to drop in and can take my time with it
 
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