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1MZFE OBX Headers Pictures & Updates

10K views 51 replies 9 participants last post by  1252820 
#1 · (Edited)
Update: Don't install these the way I did. You will regret it.





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These were the only headers I could find available on the internet for the 1MZ where the pictures didn't look like a 3 year old was handed 50 4" sections of straight piping and a welder. These ones were done by at least a 12 year old who had a few curved pipes in his straight pipe collection. No idea if they are legit or not, but they look better than the alternatives.

Edit: They are legit, that seller is an authorized OBX reseller. They were manufactured in china in july of 2017 and have an OBX lifetime warranty.

The primaries and Y pipe have some choice welds instead of properly bent tubing but still look much less restrictive, barring primary for cylinder 5, which has weld material sticking 2mm into the tube..

Going to wait until friday or when it stops raining or maybe not to install when I feel like being annoyed at my car for 8-12 hours. Thankfully solaraguy has some great install guides because I'd be at a loss otherwise.

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#4 ·


The flanges are machined flat and brushed, flange welds are all good, not concerned about them.I held both head flanges against each other and they are flush without gaps or wiggling which was honestly surprising.

466.82 Total. 363 something is what they are listed for with $65 shipping + sales tax.

Shipping price was more than I expected, but they dropped $300 in price a compared to 5 months ago so they are still the cheapest they've ever been, and it turns out I missed the packing slip - they are legit OBX with a manufacturers warranty. The packaging itself is excellent quality foams inserts along with layered bubble wrap and more inserts. The stainless steel was spotless. I heard it turns brass/gold colored too after a bit which should look cool if I decide not to wrap the fronts, rears are getting wrapped before they go in for obvious reasons.


those are pretty! are they stainless? Are you racing your car?
Not racing, but planning on doing every other weekend autocross (when its open) and once local track opens back up I plan on doing their required hpde course and then using their circuit on public track days, but nothing competitive, just like pushing the car to its limits.
 
#3 ·
those are pretty! are they stainless? Are you racing your car?
 
#5 ·
Looks dope. I always wondered why the pipe from the right head? (Bank 1) bends towards the front of the car then wraps back around to meet the y-pipe. I'd think it would've been easier and less restrictive to have the y-pipe positioned immediately downstream of the RH header. I guess that's to ensure equal length?

Anyway, what do you have set up for the rest of the exhaust?
 
#6 · (Edited)
This is just a hunch, but I believe it's for reason of giving the rear bank A/F feedback sensor a location that is equal distance from the exhaust valves as to maintain proper A/F readings without needing a 4 foot harness and 50 clips to keep it from touching piping and melting. It's pretty clear toyota didn't care about how restrictive the exhaust was in this gen camry and was just focusing on emissions and economy. It's a camry afterall.

===

Rest of the exhaust is stock with with a drilled out muffler, I'm keeping a cat because I have an open floor pan and I don't want to be breathing more fumes than I already do.

I cross drilled through the muffler piping with a 1/2 titanium bit to start holes and then a 1" steel auger bit to really open her up. It doesn't sound great but it sounds good. A real muffler would sound better but my intake is so loud I can't even hear my exhaust.


That's my intake, I can't accurately or effectively describe how it sounds but I'll try my best; from 0-2500 rpm a camry that probably has something inside it, 2500-4000 a normal v6, 4000-5000 ok wtf is that, 5000-6000 a jet engine combined with a v8 with open headers, 6300 rpm fuel cuttoff is ear drum cracking jet engine combined with crackles, it's the loudest intake I've ever heard in real life or in videos, it's also more effective than the stock one was and comparable to my ghetto CAI in power it seems after driving with it for a few days, and gives massively improved throttle response. That link to my intake shows why it's so loud - I get to hear the internal noise of my engine through my intake rather than just intake noise.

I totally made it just for the noise, and this might sound like BS because everyone throws in a K&N air filter and goes "will this give me 10hp", but I'd bet good money this adds/frees up to 10hp, about the same as the cold air intake, and it also gives insane throttle response. Again, I know everyone new to modding cars claims their intake is magic cause it sounds louder; so I'll have to post a video of me giving it the beans.

Just earlier I was adjusting my headlights while it was idling and I was like shit do I have a vacuum leak , what's that noise, so I stick my ear along the intake which was totally fine, then I get to the filter and its like ohhhhhhhhhhh.... that's intake valves opening and closing with the internals sounds propagating through the short intake.

So that's not exactly what you were asking, but that's why I'm leaving the rest of the exhaust stock barring maybe a high flow cat if needed, but I doubt these engines can flow enough air NA for it to actually matter.
 
#11 ·
OP, interested to see if you can get some dyno time with the less-restrictive exhaust. Cosmetically I like the shiny; I'm bringing my '99 V6 back to stock and found somebody to do a ceramic chrome coating on my stock intake manifolds and EGR pipes. EGR pipes:




...exhaust manifolds similar, with stock heatshields done in matte black. Been wondering if I should have just gone with headers made with a decent grade of stainless (409 I think is preferred, 316 is usual).
 
#12 · (Edited)
OP, interested to see if you can get some dyno time with the less-restrictive exhaust. Cosmetically I like the shiny; I'm bringing my '99 V6 back to stock and found somebody to do a ceramic chrome coating on my stock intake manifolds and EGR pipes. EGR pipes:



tiac Formula is my first love
...exhaust manifolds similar, with stock heatshields done in matte black. Been wondering if I should have just gone with headers made with a decent grade of stainless (409 I think is preferred, 316 is usual).
409 is what i think SLP used on Headers. My 90 Pontiac Firebird Formula (sorry wife interrupts) is what they used. it will still corrode. turns brown. just a coating tho. if u want pretty. get them ceramic coated right off the bat
 
#15 ·
OP, interested to see if you can get some dyno time with the less-restrictive exhaust.
I second this. If you get to it, perhaps swap in the stock intake for a more accurate comparison between the stock setup.

This is just a hunch, but I believe it's for reason of giving the rear bank A/F feedback sensor a location that is equal distance from the exhaust valves as to maintain proper A/F readings without needing a 4 foot harness and 50 clips to keep it from touching piping and melting. It's pretty clear toyota didn't care about how restrictive the exhaust was in this gen camry and was just focusing on emissions and economy. It's a camry afterall.

===

Rest of the exhaust is stock with with a drilled out muffler, I'm keeping a cat because I have an open floor pan and I don't want to be breathing more fumes than I already do.

I cross drilled through the muffler piping with a 1/2 titanium bit to start holes and then a 1" steel auger bit to really open her up. It doesn't sound great but it sounds good. A real muffler would sound better but my intake is so loud I can't even hear my exhaust.


That's my intake, I can't accurately or effectively describe how it sounds but I'll try my best; from 0-2500 rpm a camry that probably has something inside it, 2500-4000 a normal v6, 4000-5000 ok wtf is that, 5000-6000 a jet engine combined with a v8 with open headers, 6300 rpm fuel cuttoff is ear drum cracking jet engine combined with crackles, it's the loudest intake I've ever heard in real life or in videos, it's also more effective than the stock one was and comparable to my ghetto CAI in power it seems after driving with it for a few days, and gives massively improved throttle response. That link to my intake shows why it's so loud - I get to hear the internal noise of my engine through my intake rather than just intake noise.

I totally made it just for the noise, and this might sound like BS because everyone throws in a K&N air filter and goes "will this give me 10hp", but I'd bet good money this adds/frees up to 10hp, about the same as the cold air intake, and it also gives insane throttle response. Again, I know everyone new to modding cars claims their intake is magic cause it sounds louder; so I'll have to post a video of me giving it the beans.

Just earlier I was adjusting my headlights while it was idling and I was like shit do I have a vacuum leak , what's that noise, so I stick my ear along the intake which was totally fine, then I get to the filter and its like ohhhhhhhhhhh.... that's intake valves opening and closing with the internals sounds propagating through the short intake.

So that's not exactly what you were asking, but that's why I'm leaving the rest of the exhaust stock barring maybe a high flow cat if needed, but I doubt these engines can flow enough air NA for it to actually matter.
Hm..I've never actually took the positioning of the A/F sensors into consideration, I'll definitely look into it now that you've mentioned it. Whatever it is, must be important enough for OBX to keep that stock design choice with their product. Anyway, I can totally believe you're making more power with this intake, but the question is where and how the rest of the RPM range changed. Do you, by chance, know what temps you're getting at the intake? Also, I know a video probably won't do the intake noise justice but I'd love to see it anyway! I think the noise you're describing is like what you hear from individual throttle bodies, right? I'm interested in what something like that would sound like from a Camry.

With the muffler, did you drill the holes before, after, or the muffler itself? I'm not familiar with this kind of mod, so I don't think I'm visualizing it right. I'm assuming the point is to just partially bypass the muffling mechanism. Apologies in advance if I'm heavy with the questions. I can tell from your intake post that you like to experiment, so I thought I'd pick your brain. :)
 
#14 ·
wow. thank you guys. didn’t expect to meet so many knowledgeable guys here. thank you !
 
#20 ·
sounds like we have same setup good to know. i was reluctant to put all the money i did into a car with 352k on it, but you’re right. these cars are built smart. where are you gonna pick up an engine. was considering building one now so i have it ready to drop in and can take my time with it
 
#21 ·
My plan when the engine or trans goes or is going is to have triple A tow me up to 100 miles home and drop it off then roll it into my spot, and then hop on craigslist to just buy another one of these v6 camrys off craigslist for $1000 (market price in my area). Id drive the craigslist one while taking my time rebuilding the original engine inside engine bay if nothing catastrophic happened. If it went boom I'd just hoist the borked one out and drop the new one in.

That way I have a complete parts car when I'm done rebuilding and dailying the modded camry again if I end up using that engine, or a spare to drive to groceries without ratchet straps to tie them down lmao, or more realistically just for when im working on the modded camry. I'm very aware that my car has 313k on it, and that it's not realistic to not have a driveable vehicle while doing the first engine rebuild of my life with basically no experience. I bet I can get another 100k out of this engine though without a problem, to quote accusump - most engine wear occurs during dry startup (100% true), and being able to preoil with 3 quarts of oil under pressure in the accusump tank, just open the valve a few second before cranking and never dry start again. Currently good compression I dont see how I'll run into any issues wear issues requiring a rebuild barring catastrophic oiling failure of the crank bearings during high sustained lateral Gs.

As far as spare engines, if that one blows up, my local junkyard will sell any complete long block with accessories for $226+tax. Once you have the mount bolts and wiring harness disconnected they will even chain it and crane it to your vehicle with a pallet to set it on. Just gotta bring a couple wrenches and ratchet straps. They cut and empty anything that had a liquid or gas in it so you dont have to disconnect any hoses or lines at the yard either. Id only do that if I can't find a cheap v6 camry when I need one because I'd rather just own a spare car I can use for parts if needed.

The engine does need valve cover resealing along half moons but I don't feel like it so im gonna put it off until my cabin smells gross.
 
#23 ·
My plan when the engine or trans goes or is going is to have triple A tow me up to 100 miles home and drop it off then roll it into my spot, and then hop on craigslist to just buy another one of these v6 camrys off craigslist for $1000 (market price in my area). Id drive the craigslist one while taking my time rebuilding the original engine inside engine bay if nothing catastrophic happened. If it went boom I'd just hoist the borked one out and drop the new one in.
I'd recommend pulling the engine regardless considering it's your first rebuild and would probably be hell leaving it in the bay since the engine is canted 30 degrees towards the firewall.
 
#25 ·
So for those who have asked, here's a video with crap audio that shows my current intake noise up to the legal speed limit . It has a naughty word in it if that bothers you don't watch it.

I know I have some where I wind it out and you can hear the audio but I need to find em.

 
#26 ·
What about these places that a supposedly importing egines in from Japan with 50K miles on them or so.
 
#27 ·
I got something to say about these. There are a lot of these importers around me; when I bought beatercam I asked around here about a JDM 3S-FE swap. What attracted me was the price: $500 for a low-mileage Japanese-market 3S-FE vs $900-1000 for the requisite 5S-FE (from a full-service junkyard).

The importer claimed that it wound just drop in. People here pointed out that the mounting was completely different and would need fabrication. Engine electronics should have worked fine, but I would be down on torque with the same fuel economy. Another issue is that there's a lot more potential wear-and-tear on JDM engines with half the miles of an equivalent domestically-run engine, due to how traffic and driving is over there.

Replaced the original with a 123K-mile 5S-FE, and when that blew I replaced it with a 184K from a donor car that had been in a pileup. Took no chances, spruced up everything and took care of the issue that blew the previous two motors (oil burning due to valve stem seals). Runs like it's brand-new, takes "abuse" every day without a hiccup.
 
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#31 ·
Was supposed to be a torrential downpour today and It hasn't even sprinkled yet, I'm tired of waiting so I'm installing these headers tomorrow regardless if there is 3 inches of rain forecasted, I've got a creeper and don't mind getting dirty.

At least I got some time after the silicone paint dried to bake them, I don't remember getting baked ever smelling so bad.

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I bet it doesn't even rain tomorrow. Either way, I'm going to attempt to install these.

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#32 ·
be patient my friend. the best installs come from the most relaxed mind.
 
#33 ·
I'm interested to see you get the rear manifold out. BTW consider regasketing the EGR cooler and good luck dealing with rusty EGR pipe fasteners.
 
#34 ·



I've taken a look in the bay and under the car and haven't seen anything different than in TRDSleeper's bay or undercarriage.

According to this I'll be dropping the headers down by the cross member after removing a lot of little stuff and egr

I purchased new egr pipe hex flange bolts and nut for them for the new egr tube. I have a large assortment of nuts and bolts lying around for anything I have to destroy or drill out. They dont look bad and I've been spraying rust removers on them daily.

I have tons of stubby metric 1/4 sockets u joints, wobbles, and extensions, and tons of weird tools that fit in small spaces. I just picked up a flex head 270 rotating 1/4 ratchet with a lifetime warranty from harbor freight, it's been amazing so far adjusting my headlights, and is their pittsburg professional brand, the plastic and steel ones are garbage but this hasn't missed a tooth so far. I also have thin ratcheting metric box end wrenches for any hard to reach bolts, liquid wrench->mini vise grips will take care of any stripped ones.

Im just going to use the same gasket for the egr tube flange connection. It looks sturdy.
 
#35 · (Edited)
Good god this is way harder than I anticipated.

Started at 2PM now it's 2AM, but I'm committed so gonna all night it , too late not to if you know what I mean.
Taking pictures as I go so I can put together a better DIY.

Also it's been raining for 24 hours straight and its not stopping. I've squished a lot of worms with my creeper :(

Spent 6 hours just removing EGR bolts, I haven't even started on the header yet after 12 hours...

EDIT: Thought I'd post an update while taking a break to clean up and rest and do some research on how to get this one dang bolt on the rear header. Hopefully install isn't a pita, the headers are actually way smaller than you would imagine so maybe the rear won't be a problem getting in, but tightening the bottom bolts which im working on getting off is gonna suck.

Here's what's done so far - and it's far less than I'd hoped, but I'm glad I stuck with it - every bolt was a battle but I've won em all so far, just glad I got my tetanus booster last year cause there has been some bloody battles lol.

Air intake : <60 seconds loosen T-Bolt with a 10mm socket then pull the SRI off.

Front AF : <60 seconds.

Rear AF: <10 minutes. I've always just used two hands on a 22mm wrench from the drivers side of the engine bay, never even had a problem pulling junkyard ones.

Y Pipe Bracket <5 minutes, bottom bolts needed convincing, ended up cutting and scraping up my wrist on the bracket when the far one came loose.

Y-Pipe <-> Header Flanges: <10 minutes - they came right out.
Two of the heat shield bolts on the CAT wouldn't come off even with filing and vise grips so whatever, for the obx resonator there is a heat shield above it; it's not like it's going to get nearly as hot as a CAT anyway.

EGR Bolts: ~6 Hours... My fingers tendons got more of a workout than they almost ever see, you have to hold a wrench with 2 fingers while extending your arm balls deep up into that stuff where it cant reach further and then turn a wrench or ratchet without dropping it with 2 fingers and barely no grip. Its so fun. Learned some tricks though I'll post in a DIY later. I've got the EGR tube removed, gasket from tube to cooler is metal or some super stiff composite which is good because I'll be re-using it.

Rear Header Top Bolts: ~30 minutes - they came right out without problem with a half inch drive and socket. Learned some cool tricks for those too.

Rear Header Bottom Bolts: 3 hours in and haven't got them out, but it was dark and raining and I couldn't see anything, I feel confident I can get them though, it might require a small blood sacrifice cause my hands won't fit with them on and I think I just need to attach the socket then the extensions into it. I'm also gonna try from the top of the engine bay, there is so much room from the drivers side, passenger side top isn't worth doing anything from but I'll still try if the others dont work.


I don't think I'll have any trouble removing the old headers or inserting the new headers which is good. I should be able to drop the stock log in front of the passenger axle and then rotating down, and installing the obx headers by dropping in, I already held them where I'd put them in and it's absolutely cavernous compared to what I've been staring at.
  • Front header bolts have been soaking in penetrating oil for days so I don't anticipate them taking more time than it will take me to pack my tools back up.
  • Y pipe shouldn't be that much trouble, Flex pipe to resonator is great quality and OBX was smart enough to slot the y pipe flange bolt holes and gaskets to give wiggle room for adjusting fit to the headers before torquing bolts down. I don't think their older versions had this.
  • Already test threaded AF sensors, they fit smoothly in the threads.
  • Downstream sensor is past the CAT which got removed so It will just go Headers W/AF & EGR -> Y Pipe -> Flex Pipe -> OBX Resonator -> Downstream Sensor -> Stock Resonator -> Stock 2.25 or whatever to muffler. It may or may not be louder than I want, we shall see.
Wish me luck, and maybe like donate some blood cause I don't know how much I'll have left when this is over.
 
#37 ·
My fingers tendons got more of a workout than they almost ever see, you have to hold a wrench with 2 fingers while extending your arm balls deep up into that stuff where it cant reach further and then turn a wrench or ratchet without dropping it with 2 fingers and barely no grip.
First time? You should try working on certain military vehicles. There are several bolts that you get two fingers and a single click out of your ratchet. Nothing like a single bolt that should take seconds to remove taking several minutes.

Looks like you're enjoying yourself at least. It'll be worth it in the end my friend.
 
#36 ·
Installation Update Day 2: This is the most challenging install of my life, hell, the most challenging thing I've ever attempted in my life. I would highly recommend nobody attempt it without at least a moderate level of DIY experience and a helper. I would say I have a moderate level of DIY experience; and excuse my language, but it's been a total shit show so far. Being on jackstands hasn't caused any barriers.

Currently I'm 30 hours in so far (maybe 20 of work, 10 of dicking around) and I'm still not done.

For those curious, you can absolutely this without removing the passenger axle, HOWEVER - Turns out I actually need to file down the top of the rear engine mount center side bracket 1/4 of an inch so I can fit the header flange over all the studs at once due to interference with a pipe even after removing the wrap on that section. I could also file down 3 manifold studs the same amount but I don't want to.

If all goes well tomorrow I could be looking at 4-6 more hours. If I knew exactly what size driver, socket, extension type, joint type, and socket depth to use for each bolt I would be at this spot in one hour. That's not an exaggeration, all the time is just figuring out where the heck to get leverage on bolts.

I promise I'll post the most comprehensive 1MZFE OBX Header DIY on the internet when I'm done with more than 50 pictures of removal and installation steps, with lots of details, gotta finish the job first.


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#40 ·
Headers totally done! Y pipe another day.

I just wanna be very clear for anyone thinking about DIYing this without removing major parts. Don't. Just don't. I've never discouraged someone from trying something a certain way before, I've done all sorts of "dumb" stuff to my car, but just because headers can be done this way doesn't mean it should be done this way.

Not gonna lie, if I knew what I was in for I wouldn't do it over again. I can't think of anything else I'd say that about as I've never experienced such frustration before in my life.

I spent 40+ hours just get the headers in, after reading everything about installing them first. If I'm being completely honest the only reason they're in the car and not reinstalled manifolds is because drugs, and I'm a pretty tenacious dude on drugs. Don't do those either.

Getting the rear manifold and headers out and in is cake compared to the grinding/filing work required to get them to fit over studs and even worse, figuring out how to get nuts on the studs and even worse was spending 20 hours being a guinea pig on how to turn the nuts let alone torque them.

I used an entire spray can of coconut oil on my arms today going balls deep into my engine from on a creeper to get the rear bottom nut on while doing that snake thing with my skin to pull my arms deeper..also ended up literally laying across my fender with my shoulder under the throttle, also don't ever attempt this but I'll post some pictures tomorrow anyway for the curious.

This was a wild ride.



Good news, it will :) , I tested cause the fit was so close I had the same thought Without the header bolted down it was hitting trans with the little knob by the wires but once torqued down I had at least 1/2 inch free room, slides right in and out. Good design by OBX, super clear they placed it as far down as possible without being annoying.
 
#39 ·
Yeah those EGR bolts are terrible. This is why I bought new manifolds, plans to also use new EGR studs and coat them with nickel antiseize. Hang in there.
 
#42 ·
Well that was one heck of an adventure.

Cars back on the ground with all the bolts in the right holes. Haven't driven it yet but warmed up and let idle for 20 mins to smoke off exhaust wrap then restarted for a warm start...

Never in a million years would I guess a Camry could make this noise..

SRI+Headers+Y-Pipe+Drilled muffler+High Idle... Good god. Don't have the words or time to describe it, but I'll have something better in a few hours once I wash up myself and then the car.

I wouldn't do it over again the same way.
 
#45 ·
Lol I had a rear header bolt back itself off after giving it a spirited break in, that will have to wait for when I feel like smearing copper exhaust sealant over literally every flange in the exhaust. I just don't care enough to deal with that before I even wash my work clothes and buy new not glass covered gloves.

Front header wrap and coating smells nasty, but it was a lot less nasty after getting burning some stuff off - I'm definitely still reinstalling the floor pan plugs - at least temporarily, at stoplights the cabin gets stanky, maybe it's just from the exhaust leak or lack of a feline friend, but either way I'd rather breathe as little of that as possible....

I don't really notice a torque drop at low rpms, but definitely a bump after 4000 rpm, 2nd gear is way more fun than it's supposed to be. Accusump and kit is going to be here in time for the next autocross event in 12 days and this thing is ready to roll without the body roll so I'm super stoked to see what it can do without starving my engine.

 
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#47 ·
I plan on it once the track opens back up for friday night drag racing.

It's quite quick, and extremely torquey above 25mph.

Also good god this engine makes amazing noises. It sounds like nothing else once you get to 4k in first, and the engine runs so rich that there are hella burbles and crackles too now :D
 
#49 ·
headers? these usually lower your hp, and there is zilch aftermarket. You can pay a muffler shop to make up a big tube exhaust but the gains (if any) are tiny.

Hot tip on the mounts: cutting the rear mount in half before install is the only way I got it in after a 2h struggle.
 
#50 ·
yeah, the mounts I have a good mechanic for that 😂. Thanks for the header info. There used to be a few online. I was thinking the same, but I would do a Long 1.5" 3 to one. Or just something shiny to make to girls go "ooohhh" 😂. I just thought about the rear mount. Really, you had to cut out that one? Is the new one one in ok?
 
#52 ·
really? I will keep that in mind. Thank you. I just removed my EGR assembly and cleaned it. i didn't realize it was that easy to take off. I can even take 98% of the vac assembly out as well. I know if i did that CEL would be a Christmas tree. It wasn't as dirty as i thought.
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